Jonelli

@inklegg I just searched for "5 button greeting card usb" it and came up with:https://bigdawgsgreetings.com/product/usb-programmed-5-button-sound-module-200-sec/

Progress update... Here are the mostly unfinished parts: Here's how I friction welded some of the pieces together: I contemplated several ways to do all the lights. I didn't like the results of some of the things I tried and found that a couple of LED boards from the free Harbor Freight flashlights worked pretty dang good: And even the push button switch is perfect. The LED boards can run on 3V so I made a double C cell that fits into the rear barrel and wired it all to the one switch and put the LED boards right under the red gel I diffused by gluing a piece of tissue on the back side. I'll post pictures of all of that later. I also wanted to have a simple twist on/off flashlight, so I chose to use a Maglite solitaire for the tip. (pictures later) So, here's where I'm at... lights are all figured out, pieces generally fit together. I have a few to still finish and paint, then final cleanup and assembly: I want to eventually do sound and barrel lights, but that will have to wait for now.

By the way, I tried the 3D pen and it didn't work at all. It extrudes too slow and is uselessly cold and hard right away. I've been sticking to friction welding where I can and Loctite Ultra Gel.

Here's Rustoleum 2x Flat Black on my barrel: ----------------

I tried black semi-gloss in the Rustoleum 2x and it was too shiny for me. I'd show you my barrel in the Rustoleum 2x FLAT BLACK, but I can't figure out how to attach any more images or upload pics to my profile.

I did the same searches and decided to use Rustoleum 2x white semi-gloss and Rustoleum 2x flat black. I had lots of trouble with silver/chrome. I spent hours trying to figure out how to paint shiny silver that will last and there's nothing. Just nothing works from a can. There's a good youtube video I found where a guy compared all chrome paints by painting plastic spoons and Rustoleum won. But, the problem I found with all these silver/chrome paints is you can absolutely not clear-coat them with anything and if you touch it too much they just become grey. I just did a final silver paint finish on my parts and they are going to hang dry for probably 2-3 weeks before I touch them again. I used bondo glazing putty and a filler primer before final sanding and finishing. most parts look good, some better than others depending on how much time I spend filling and sanding. I had no luck finding a good way to fill and sand the slots. I found something called "sandits" the other day, but I'm 90% done with my finishing already so it is what it is now. I'll get some Sandits for my next blaster project.

Painting the silver parts.

I just tried Loctite Ultra Gel Control on a test piece. Wow, I can't believe how different it is compared to the gorilla version. <br> Maybe that was my whole problem. The Loctite version did not separate from the pieces, it broke the lower layer of PLA instead. I tried the same thing with the gorilla gel and it didn't even hold with a little pressure.

Getting there!

This is interesting. I wonder if it's much different than the Gorllia version I'd been using. <br><br>

They're fragile, because the are not bonded well. PLA is strong enough on its own, just not with super-glue bonds. You can also make them not light by printing denser filling which I've done on some of my pieces. This is a 3D pen: (it's like a glue gun that spits out PLA filament) This is how you use it to weld pieces together... Here is friction welding (which I've tried and it really works well, just leaves a messy weld seam) But both of those still leave a heavy bead you have to clean up. Some guy on the interweb was printing glue-stick size sticks of PLA to put in his hot glue gun as a method to glue pieces together. That's a bit crude and difficult to get the PLA through it (not hot enough), so I think a 3D pen is a better possibility. They're $20-$35 for cheapies on Amazon. It doesn't sound like you guys have tried this. I may order a pen and try it.

CA glue = Cyanoacrylate = Superglue I've experimented with it already. I tried Gorilla Glue's gel version which works well otherwise, but I am still able to snap pieces apart with my hands. If I were to drop a fully assembled blaster, I would expect it not to hold too well. I'm want a better PLA bonding glue.

Glue - ???? What have you guys been using to glue PLA prints together? The last thing I want is this thing to drop and explode into pieces. I know there are a few places with screws to hold things together. But where gluing is necessary... I haven't had any luck with superglues. I experimented with 1 minute 2 part epoxy on two parts with non-matching rough surfaces and it didn't hold at all. I have seen in other threads using PlastiWeld and E6000. Do either of those work well? I have the same failed epoxy part right now setting with E6000, so we'll see how that goes, but I can't seem to find anything that is a SURE THING, that will permanently bond it together with a STRONG bond. Super glue seems to hold, but cracks too easily. I want something stronger. I'm going through a lot of work to build this and make it look nice, I want it to be sturdy. The only thing that has really worked so far is friction welding with a piece of filament in a dremel. That welds a seam together stronger than the PLA itself. The only drawback is it leaves a very messy weld that needs to be sanded or ground smooth, and there are a lot of nooks and crannys that are hard to get to. I welded the front barrel pieces together nicely that way and they will never come apart. But, the T Tracks would be a disaster with friction welding. Has anyone tried a cheap 3D pen?

Has anyone compiled a complete list of correct screw sizes and head types? I've read through the build threads, and some of the screws are referenced, but not entire details. It would be nice to have a reference list. Are they all supposed to be Torx heads? (except for the front barrel ones, those are allen heads) Which are suipposed to be black and silver? My own edit... After doing more searching I finally found the old screw reference posts... http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32544-free-tfa-f-11d-3d-printable-files-available-now/page-31#entry518393 http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32544-free-tfa-f-11d-3d-printable-files-available-now/page-32#entry522822

And take this for what it's worth... I have a good friend who works in the prop industry that made some of the R1 suits for some of the movie shots, he had actual film used parts, made more parts for the film and is telling me they are the same. <br> But if they say here they are different here, well, I can't really dispute any of it. I have no first hand knowledge. I'm just here for fun.

@kman<br> Yes, I see the discussion. I guess I may never be as particular as some of you guys on the details. I will probably never make the higher levels. I'm very new to this, but I have a love for it. I just want to have fun and not get too hung up on the details. I'll get my suit eventually approved and maybe have some fun with it.

I'm just saying... Rogue One troopers used the T7 shoes with the original style armor. Different it may be somehow, but the T7 shoes seem much better.

My boots showed up in CA Feb 3. So that's 25 business days approximately for those interested. <br> And, @RynoHawk, even tho yes, I'll be a FO trooper I noticed that all the TK's in Rogue One now are wearing the same T7 boot, so does that mean all the standard TK's can start wearing them too?

Just ordered the T7 boots from Imperial boots, says is shipping from China.