Kaar121

Hey Ninjagoat25, The back of the ear looks okay. The front however, to me, looks like there is a little more gap than normal. I would try to hand sand the round top part of the ear to get it to fit more flush with the bucket. That may help to lessen the gap. You could also, last ditch effort, use some scrap ABS and ABS paste to make a small shim and fill in the gap.

Hey Matt, Don't worry about how the bucket looks right now. Once you have the pieces trimmed and screw them together the parts will flex, and fit together. The ears cover the deference in shapes of the face plate and cap. Here is mine screwed together. --------------

Unfortunately you are limited to what your phone can put out. If all of the volume settings on the phone are at max and it still doesn't give you the sound you want, you will need some sort of amplifier.

Hey David, Hope this helps. There is a video on thigh trimming and fitting. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38763-how-to-build-stormtrooper-armor-video-tutorial-series/

Hey Ben, I was looking over your pictures, and your mic is mono. Most microphones are. Okay I just want to make sure that I am understanding this right. The iPhone, when all this is plugged in, uses its internal microphone, not the one you bought? And, I'm just being through. You tried the mic on something else to make sure it works? Do you have one of those cellphone headsets? The cord with the earpiece and built-in mic. If so, try using that in place of the mic and see if the works. If it is a problem with the mono to stereo connection between the mic and adapter; you may want to look for a mono to stereo cable. The electronic department at the store may have one, but your best bet would be Radio shack. The cables are like $5 to $10 dollars. If all the hardware works (mic, splitter, ect) then it may be an issue with the phone. Possibly a setting somewhere on the phone. If all else fails you may want to reach out to the garrison. Hopefully there is someone nearby that can help.

Hey Ben, "themaninthesuitcase" is the one who developed the APP, I don't know if you would want to contact him. He says that 9/10 times it is a splitter issue. Others have said that everything needs to be connected together then plugged into the phone. Here are some links that may help you. I would repost your question here. You may get better responses. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32270-tkvoice-for-ios-development-annoucement/page-1?hl=tkvoice TKvoice hardware post http://www.cpearson.me.uk/tkvoice/hardware/ Hope this helps. Also, are you using "photobucket" to post pictures?

Hey Albert. Welcome to the FISD and congrats on the Big Brown Box day. Starting at the bottom and working your way up is sound advice. Working on small things like the Thermal Detonator, hand guards or belt also help. Best of luck on your build and don't forget to have fun.

Hey Andy. welcome to the FISD. I am working on an AP kit myself. In regards to your height question, I am 6'1" and have no problem fitting into the armor. Unless you have a really long torso I think you should be fine.

So here are the Ab, Kidney and Posterior plates together. This is for basic approval. The rivets and additional snaps are not present. After I complete the armor, work out the kinks and lose some weight I will be reworking the armor to meet Centurion level. For the uh, "crotch strap" I used a piece of black elastic strap. I did this so that there would be some give. Also since it is impossible to snap the strap in place with the armor on, this allows me to leave the strap in place and step through the armor and pull it up. I'll post some pictures of the armor closed when I finish the chest and back pieces.

Being sick sucks. That and it's cold outside, and there is a foot of snow on the ground. . . Still. Well that's enough complaining. On to the build. I was able to join the Ab, Kidney and Posterior plates together, and glue on the button plates. For the main strapping of the three plates I am using some leftover material I had from some homemade snowshoes. I'm sorry I can't tell you what this stuff is called. I bought it almost eight years ago. But, it is a nylon mesh coated with a rubberized plastic. This is the same stuff that conveyor belts are made of. Other Troopers have done this same thing but with different materials. I guess whatever you can find is what you use. This is the left side strap that will hold the Ab and Kidney plates together. The right side has two snaps.

Hey Bill, There are two guys in my garrison that are close to your size. They both have AM 2.0 kits and they look great.

Neck seal is done. I hope. I made this by hand using Panda Trooper's guide. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/8402-howto-create-a-neckseal/ I think this one came out pretty good. It is three inches in the front, four inches in the back. The seal follows along my jaw line and is snug, but comfortable. I would suggest adding 1/2 to 1 inch on the neck measurement. So you don't pass out from lack of blood to the brain. I found the material at JoAnn's. It is the same stuff used for the "Head Liner" in your car. It was about $14.00 US for a yard which is enough to make three neck seals. The fabric is cloth on one side and foam on the other. I went with a zipper instead of Velcro for security and comfort. Front view . . . Side view . . . Back view . . .

Haven't been able to work on the armor so I did a little painting. Here are the button plates. The stencils didn't work as planned so I will go over them by hand later. . . . and I added a little realism to the E-11. I don't know if this affects the approval but no one is really able to see it.

Nice work Aaron. I have always liked the lens look over decals. In my case, I bought a $1 pair of toy binoculars. It's not as good looking, but it gives the glass lens look.<br><br> I think TKZombie has a E-11 thread. If you haven't checked it out.

Thanks Kirk. I think I will leave it for now and look at them one last time before I paint. I'll catch one of the TKs on the next troop, see if I can get a closer look at their bucket.

I really like the Husky 50 gal. tote I have. They are very popular with many members and hold everything. As you can see, there is plenty of room.

Finally . . . Here are the bucket pictures. I am most concerned about the openings on the frown. Can they be bigger? Are they fine as is?

Wow! Where did the last two months go? Sorry there hasn't been any updates. I do have some work to show but Photobucket seems to be down right now. The belt is finished. I only need to complete the one drop box so that I can store things in it. I am going to put a key holder in my right drop box as these are a popular item, especially room keys. I have been working on the bucket. I need to finish shaping the ears, install the lenses and frown screen, paint, and apply the decals. I have pics to post, once Photobucket gets its act together. I am starting work on the neck seal. Photos to follow when it's done.

Hey Ron, Things are looking good on your build. Don't fret on finishing quickly some troopers take a year to complete there armor. Just have fun, learn and take your time. In regards to the line 24 snaps on the belt. If the snap head fits in the button cover then you are golden. I am using line 20's and there is wiggle room with the button covers. if all else fails. Try some "DRITZ" brand snaps found at Walmart, and other craft stores. A pack of 10 is $5 or $6 and they are smaller than the Line 24's. I just finished doing my TK belt (I am doing an AP build as well). I took some pictures that my help. Just click on the link in the signature below.

Hey everyone. I know that I said I would be posting pictures of the trimmed pieces. I've hit a bit of a snag. I am going back over the pieces and doing some fine sanding by hand. Also after doing some rough fitting, I need to go back through and reduce some of the return edges so that the armor fits more closely to me. In the mean time I have mostly completed the belt. The button covers need to be glued as do the drop boxes. I am deciding whether or not to make them sealed or able to open. I did not do a hot water treatment on the belt to give it a curve. The plastic is pretty flexible, so what I did was make the holes for the three snaps, affix the middle snap and tightened the fabric belt around the ab plate with the plastic part snapped onto the middle. Once the fabric belt was secured by clamps I formed the plastic part to the curve of the ab plate. I then stuck a pencil through the hole in the plastic and marked the spot onto the fabric belt. Now when the plastic belt is snapped onto the fabric belt it forms a perfect curve, as shown below. Completed belt I used Tandy Line 20 snaps. Here only the middle snap is secure. Don't forget to mark the orientation of the parts. The holes don't line up when it's upside down. Holster front. Attached with Tandy line 20 snaps. Backside of holster. I kinda like the snaps over Chicago screws or rivets. This way I can store the E-11 in the holster separate from the belt. Drop boxes. A loop of white elastic fastened by four small nuts and bolts. Okay, back to work.

Hey Angie, congratulations on getting your armor. With all the trimming done you should have that thing ready in no time.

Thanks Martin, I will follow your thread as well. Give me a shout if you need some help or ideas.

Congratulations on the build and good luck. I will follow your tread too. Take your time, ask questions and don't forget to have fun.

Plastic hand guards. The elastic strapping is different from what others have done but it feels really secure. I may add some foam on the inside for added comfort. The return edges tend to press into my wrist. It doesn't hurt, but after a four hour troop it may become annoying.

Update. I tried the PTT button on my thumb and found that it works great on my right hand. I know. That's my left hand. It works there too. PTT button with glove on. I can't bend my thumb but that's okay since I don't really need to. What's nice is that I can trigger the button by pressing against my forefinger, while shaking hands or my favorite on the E-11.