kman
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Posts posted by kman
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Amazing Build!!! Great reference for my build!!! top notch
Thank you.
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Try online, for the regular boots. Just choose a place with a decent return policy due to sizing issues.
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Congrats, Shawn!
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I've been reading all the boards too looking for options for larger boots. When I was in the Army I wore 11.5 W but in a running shoe I wear a size 13 and in a normal work boot 12 or 13 depending on brand. I have wide feet and from everything I've read is that these boots, both TK and IP, run narrow. Not sure what option to go with. The 421s on IP only show 12 as the largest size but everyone recommends going with 1 size larger. I wish there was some place I could try a pair on first to make sure they fit. Any advice? I'll buy a pair of black Chelsea ones and paint them if I have to but would prefer TK or IP boots or something similar. Thanks.
Your only option is to contact IB (Imperial Boots) and find out if they'll still do custom sizing, or buy the black Chelsea boots in your size (available all over the internet) and paint them white with good leather paint.
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I used the cutting disk to do a rough cut on the Anovos. Was great for quickly trimming the excess flashing around the pulls, followed with the lexan scissors at the cut line.
Score / snap didn't work for me on anything with a return edge, though was great for the flat seams under the cover strips.
Dremel and belt sander I'd consider optional for future builds, especially for those without one when starting a build.
This video demo of Score and Snap may help:
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Nice job, Jon! Your experiences pretty much echo what I've learned. There are people who are hardcore Dremel PROS and want to use it on everything. They're so good with them that most of the issues you noted, they would easily handle. BUT for anyone who does not work with a Dremel DAILY for years on end, and definitely anyone new, I really don't think a Dremel is a good tool for the main armor cutting. (detail work here and there, it's great for, but not really the main trimming job)
I continue to maintain that the traditional Score and Snap method is best. For thinner armor, and the seriously timid, Lexan scissors work reasonably well, too, but score and snap is still best in my book. (The Lexan scissors may be best for the accident-prone with 4 left thumbs, too, but I don't know how well it fares with thicker armor)
I did a quick how-to/demo video at one point on FB. I should upload that to YouTube and post it here at some point.
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Use white duct tape/gaffers tape. Screen accurate and screen accurate
You can also reinforce from behind with some t-shirt fabric superglued down. This is a very good way to reinforce return edges because the cloth lays flat and catches all contours.
That second method is exactly what the big diagram I posted above shows how to do.
(And the first method helps in a pinch, but it's hardly a long term solution)
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Interesting. The photos don't have to be set to Public?
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I got mine in today. Ordered the ESB kit for my TK Commander and mine looks pretty good. It's got some clean up that needs to be done but you get that with any casting. We will see how the build progresses since I plan to make the folding stock functional.
Got pics of what you received, to compare to the OP's kit?
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I'm not sure about how different PVC is compared to the usual ABS, but cracks in areas of high stress are a completely normal part of owning armor. (usually, at least with ABS, again) Patching those cracks is considered part of routine maintenance.
Be careful about fiberglass for the reasons mentioned. That resin gets hot while curing and can destroy your armor if it gets warm enough to warp or sag!
A common technique for repairing ABS armor is what they call "poor man's fiberglass". I don't see why it wouldn't work on PVC as well. It's illustrated in this diagram:
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I agree that they MIGHT pass (with significant mods) someday, but as of today, there are exactly zero Rogue One TK's that have been approved. And zero Rogue One TK armor has been made. And since there is no complete armor, there is no CRL that has been submitted for approval to even get the ball rolling.
So if someone is trooping them, then they are wearing an inaccurate, unapproved R1 helmet with the wrong (presumably OT/ANH) armor instead of R1 armor.
I'm sure that situation will change eventually, but that's how it stands today.
The Rogue One armor is going to be a BEAST given all the extra detail. Simple vacumolded stuff like was used for OT (and even TFA) armor probably won't cut it, so it's going to be EXPENSIVE as well.
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I just received my E-11 from THG today after 6 months of waiting... I share duckie's sentiments (and the original poster!)-nearly every piece is riddled with bubbles and holes. The folding stock is missing the end due to a large bubble so the stock won't even be functional. I could go on and on with the issues. I paid close to $200 for this and it is nowhere near what it was advertised on Etsy. I PMd THG pointing out all of the issues and so far no response. I too will chalk this up as a waste of time and money. I was really excited about purchasing a kit as I love prop replicas, costumes, and studio scale models. Could I make this into a nice prop? Sure. But the time and extra materials won't be worth it. The time bugs me the most- the amount I would have to put into it wouldn't make it fun anymore. If anyone has any suggestions for another E-11 vendor, I would appreciate it. Also looking for First Order Stormtrooper weapon vendors as well!
HyperFirm is the go-to for many (including myself). Most of the same features as the THG ("indestructible" and lightweight, perfect for trooping), just not quite as detailed. And of course no folding stock. PM SlaveFive here on FISD or look for one of his threads selling B-grades, and check out their website at www.hfxproductions.com to email Lewis.
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The black series helmet is for Rogue One, which is a different movie with a different CRL (which has yet to be written, since no one currently makes the armor that would go with the helmet). You posted this in ESB... did you mean to post it as Rogue One, or were you trying to use it for ESB?
There are people who have bondo'd over the battery compartment and re-painted the helmet, with mixed results.
No one should be trooping in these helmets at this point, since those are definitely not approved.
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Can anyone assist with the model number of the Pelican case? Is it 1630? Thanks.
I'm not sure, but be prepared for SERIOUS sticker shock. That case likely costs MORE than your armor.
I like the Husky 55 gal job boxes, personally. Holds everything and then some. Easy to cart around, even over less-than-perfect terrain. Heavy, and you need a car that'll fit them, but well worth it if you can!
(and yes, I did emulate VancouverTrooper's paint scheme, with permission!)
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For Dremel pros, they'll already know how to handle the Dremel, and would rather use it over any other tool.
For everyone else, I'd steer clear of the Dremel for most of the build. It IS handy in some spots, but not essential. It'll be pretty clear once you get going.
As for corded vs. cordless: Unless you plan on working on your armor in the middle of a field somewhere, chances are you'll always be fairly nearby to a power outlet. Cordless Dremels always seem to die at just the wrong time, so you end up needing to buy multiple batteries, juggle charging them, etc. So much hassle for just a little reward that only applies to certain situations! They also cost more initially, and cost more in the long run since batteries need replacing, too. And eventually, they discontinue those batteries to force you to a new model anyway.
I prefer corded, in case there's any confusion on my opinion, LOL!
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The reference build is Ukswrath's. Here's the bit on the side rivets:
http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/page-20#entry466149
There's a "table of contents" with links to each section on the 1st page, for other rivet questions.
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Following. I picked one up, too.
Although it will be a few years before my son fits into it, so I have time...-
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ok "Made in the USA" and batch number - CHECK! Phew!!!
I´m close to starting to use E6000 for the first time (TIE Bucket for now) and I´m contemplating where I do it because of the fumes. I´ve read a lot about open garages and the like but I do see "living room table" builds, too.
Can I use it in my office (maybe with a tilted window), would the living room with 2 windows open wide be better or will I have to use the space of my parents´company with a room, a hall that opens wide, has some parts covered by a lil roof and an open parking space?
I do have a mouthcover, too which I could use plus I´ll make sure my cats will not be in the room when glueing...
I´ve put waaaay too little thought into this point up till now
It's your call to determine your own level of paranoia.
Some people won't go near the stuff without a full face respirator with special organic fume filters. Others will only work outdoors. Others work by a window with a fan on.
Personally, I work in a large room in an open floorplan house. I'm generally only doing one or two pieces at a time, in the evening, and then I left them cure for 24 hours while I'm in another area of the house, and overnight while I sleep. You can't smell anything by morning. I'm good with that.
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50 cents worth of black lamp chain at Lowe's will buy you enough links to make ~12 d-rings. Just squish them a little more flat in a vise (or other creative solution) and cut a little bit off to get them onto the back connector block.
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Very nice! I don't suppose you'd consider selling the plates as a kit?
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Well, yeah, the UKG is special and I get that. However we don't want new people in other garrisons thinking it is this way elsewhere, and the original poster is not in the UKG...
True that. Sorry, I didn't realize the OP was not UKG, since the issue seemed to have come up.
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I have only been here a short time but I still can't understand how the UKG gets away with all these strange and strict requirements for basic approval. How is it that they are allowed to require so much more than the basic CRL. This seems so out of line.
To answer your question my wife is a new shadow trooper and a cheap $5 balaclava from Amazon solved all her long hair issues.
?? How can the garrison make such a rule?
Standard rule in the UK Garrison. As I understand it they have special dispensation, having to do with conditions they set upon being invited to merge with the 501st, since they were a separate club before. They're allowed to keep their stricter rules in place.
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Thanks. I know you have been waiting patiently and hope to get you a scope kit soon. The M38 scope kit parts seem to cast well with some minor trapped air pockets on the surface. The surfaces I am referring to are all the sides that face inside when assembled so they will not be seen. The visible surfaces for each part are perfectly fine. I just hate not being able to get these parts bubble free. Looking into alternative methods to cast using syringes, hoping this will cut down on those air pockets. It is a one shot deal, one you use the syringe it has to be tossed so its another item I will have to purchase in bulk. Using dollar store syringes now for testing, works well sometimes but not 100%. My molds need an extra spout for the syringe to be inserted so the air goes out the other spouts when I inject the resin. No room or cash for a pressure chamber so that is not in the cards at the moment.
I wonder if a vibrating plate would accomplish the goal in a similar way? A case tumbler (used to clean ammo casings for reloaders) is only $40. Strap the molds on top and it might shake the bubbles right out.
Pure speculation, mind you. Maybe it'll do the opposite... I don't know a lot about the molding process. But it seems kinda logical.
undersuit acceptance
in Build Threads Requireing Maintenance
Posted
The contrast stitching is obnoxious and requires ongoing maintenance to keep it covered.
Logos are relatively simple to remove (usually), or at least cover, but stitching that runs the entire length is way more hassle than I want to deal with on an ongoing basis, for me personally. I have one that I touched up three times before deciding to stop using it. There are other options that are fully black that are much simpler.