MrSnrub

i know there is no return edge on the wrist end of the forearm, how much return edge should be on the other end i have a rs kit and the 2 inner forearms really different at the elbow end i cant upload pics because it always says they are to big, but if anyone could upload of picture of what it should look like would be awesome is there no return edge on both ends of the inner forearms? all help appreciated

i am going to start working on my RS props armor kit this weekend and was wondering how i go about sizing the arm and leg pieces and figuring out what width of coverstrip to use, all help appreciated, my kit came trimmer already with just excess plastic on the limbs for sizing as im 6ft and 75kg the body armor that is trimmed all fits perfectly and just needs to be attached, all help appreciated

thanks i'll keep this in mind! and its not if i apply, its when! haha

unfortunately, they are painted on and yes its an rs bucket, my first ever build, i think i will just leave it until my application's as i am happy with them, i was using this trooper as reference as you can see his tubes start to get further away than a pencil towards the back of the tubestripes on our right

if i left them as they are would it affect centurion status as that is what i am building towards

i put my tube stripes on the wrong sides didn't i... how do i remove them! do i need to remove them? does it really matter? all help appreciated

i can get the pictures to appear but i always get the message "You are not allowed to use that image extension on this community."

first days more wall of text, i plan on just posting my progress after each day and getting input on what i can improve on for the next day, well its here, been here for like 2 days now, from the UK to New Zealand and also many other places, the boxes arrived a bit damp with some dented corners and i was scared for the contents, and yes we had some cracks, now nothing too major, on the side of the chest piece about 8mm I used some zap a gap and zip kicker on it on it with a scrap piece of ABS behind it, and on the very top of the face plate which was trimmed off anyway, and a piece where where the ear is going to sit over below the end of the brow on the cap and back which was cut out anyway,, as i wobbly scored my first lines on this helmet i started to get more confident, eventually got out the rotary tool i had got from trooper bay to help cut the teeth and eyes I realized it had a US plug, so a quick trip to the hardware store solved that problem,i carefully cut out the eyes and snapped them out which was just as easy as it looked, and drilled the holes in the teeth and had a scrape at them with the scalpel,so this is all i did today i plan on using all of trooper bays videos and then doing the TK stuff he didn't do last, so i will be copying his helmet trim lines tomorrow to give this thing a bit of shape, my goal is to finish the helmet before the weekend, since I've got a couple of days off this should be no problem! figured out pics, AFTER THE BUILD

watching trooperbays videos further i see he had a whole part on repairing cracks with zap a gap and zip kicker, this seems like it would be better than e600 and scrap abs, will keep this is mind for further accidents, hopefully i wont need to buy it lol

i decided to attach a piece of small scrap of abs with e6000 on the chest except only on the back. thanks for the advice

so my kit arrived today and unfortunately i found some small cracks no longer than a centimeter i heard using acetone + abs plastic (scrap peices) and stir it into a paste and apply to the crack and sand, one of the cracks in a small one about 50mm on the side of the chest plate and one is on the crap and back where that POINT is up by the top of the ear, you know the one. so my question is whats the best/correct method of fixing these small cracks

oh man that would be fantastic! i live in paeroa 'the town of L&p" haha

im a first tine builder and my rs kit will be here in a couple of days, which are the best pieces to start with to get the hang of it? thanks!

oh really, i just had a look, DARN, i have already ordered my stuff from trooperbay and to just get the templates would be 50NZD (incuding shipping) if i cant find a better solution i guess ill have to fork out 50 bucks just to paint some lines lol

my RS kit should be here in the next couple of days and im just wondering the best methods/tips/techniques to painting the tube stripes and black lines on the traps/tears, thanks!

thanks for the reply, VERY helpful! i have already got my e6000 i was just watching trooperbays assembely video and it just looked like a huge time saver, i will definately stick to the e6000!

not sure where this belongs but am i able to use a rotary tool i got from trooperbay as a drill to drill all the holes i will need making my suit? thanks, also does zip kicker work with e6000 to make it cure faster, im still waiting on my BBB and just getting some of my nooby questions out of the way

is the grey of the frown the same on the ears and other places on the helmet, thanks! for a new hope sandtrooper

those were the two i chose between as well, i ended up ordering with RS. RS has a bigger price tag for obvious reasons, if you are after screen accurate go for RS, if you want a great looking kit on a smaller budget go with WTF,.

in what way were they built wrong, im getting an RS kit to build and that post just made a bit nervous lol

haven't seen a thread about this it seems like an interesting topic, also to help others learn from your mistakes i haven't gotten around to getting a costume yet so no stories from me.

thanks for the help! abs it is!

What are the differences between the two plastic types, im relatively new and just wondering which plastic type i should go with.

just put some sunblock in your eyeballs

1400usd? HOLY MOLY what a joke!