kamikaze

I guess I should mention that after you peel off the back and stick it, you don't really move it. So you can cut off long strips and play with their size/shape aligning next to the last stuck on piece first if you want, then when you think you're good with it peel off the back and secure it in place. It's hard to describe this but when putting two strips together on the bucket, the one going in can be placed almost into the side edge of the next one, such that when you place it down finally you can just apply a bit of pressure with your finger between the two of them and create a fairly seamless join... I guess what I'm getting at is this avoids creating small gaps between your lines. Another tip is what to do with the very top of the bucket. You really don't cover 100% of the internal with neoprene, maybe go up 80-90% of the height. The very top crown of the bucket will be a small open zone, maybe 4"-6" in diameter depending on how your project went. This is where a nice piece of circular helmet padding finishes up the deal perfectly (and makes for a nice comfort). Generally speaking, step one is lining the helmet with the neoprene, step two is using pads on the top for that part, but also placed around the helmet as needed to create a very snug and secure/comfortable fit.

Yeah so the product I used and linked in the details has one side neoprene, and the other side of it you peel off and it is a sticky tape side, so you cut a strip of desired length from the roll, peel off the back, then you can place it where you want. It takes a bit of practice to get the strips cut and aligned right, but there's a lot of give in the product so you can shimmy things in easily. Start slow and practice with cutting strips and aligning them. Eventually you'll be faced with a taper situation since buckets have non-square geometry to them. It may be frustrating at first but just take your time and in the end it will look great. I've done many buckets now like this and they all turn out just awesome in the end.

The underside of the neoprene strips I used is an adhesive layer, so it just sticks in place. It's pretty strong too, I haven't had it peel off any even after several years now.

So I haven't made a video showing how to do that, but I do have a write up thread here that goes through the process I use for hard lenses that are removable. You can find it here:

Hey! Thanks so much for the kind comments, I'm glad you like how the build came out and hope it may inspire people to do similar things with their buckets as well. Cheers and thanks again.

Heya. Well, four years later it is holding up pretty well. The main issue is where two pieces meet and there is solid connection between two edges. Over time small chips of wear are observed at these spots, which I then hit up with a clear enamel. It makes for a little bit of natural and three dimensional armor wear, which I kind of like.

I looked at all my WIP workshop photos, the only thing that comes close is this one that was before I installed the electronics. Shows the raw neoprene, no padding, and before a bunch of clean up. Hopefully it helps.

No I run them in parallel, not series. This provides constant voltage to each fan and allows me to quick disconnect one or more if I just want 2 for instance, or doesn't shut the whole loop down if one breaks, a problem with your christmas tree style series lights.

I do something a bit differently. I craft a piece of steel that is the shape of the mouth and bend it so it can lay inside laying "flat" against the teeth with the appropriate bend in the middle. I paint that flat black, and mount it with Sugru such that it is offset by 1/4" from the teeth opening. The Sugru rubber "feet" it lays against are visually hidden from looking through the teeth at the front. On top of the back side of this plate goes the neoprene. This seals the mouth off entirely and gives a very nice structural depth to the teeth mesh versus having it see-through. Pictures are hard to do this justice but I'll see if I can't find a good angle that illustrates the end result.

Glad you like it! I have another guide up for how I do lenses in my helmets. Lately the only thing I change is rather than steel bolts I use black nylon ones that i can safely trim inside the helmet without overheating the paint and plastic, makes for better cuts to exact size after the lenses are placed on them. I plan to update my YouTube channel soon with more videos especially one for lenses as that's something which gets asked at lot. Anyway, for now you can check out this guide I posted up here on FISD:

Derrick Meade 11778 Centurion Letter Size Tony http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/11778-centurion.png

Derrick Meade 11778 EIB Letter Size Tony http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/11778-eib.png

Now that is some real nice looking armor, very good job!

Hard to tell if it would meet EIB or CEN since it would require close up details that aren't really apparent in the two shots. What I can point out is much what humperdingle already said, the left thigh is pushing up way too much on your but plate, it should look much more like the right one. The fronts look fine but the back seems problematic and may require tracing a new trim line to match the right. Also, not sure if it's just the picture but it almost appears like the butt plate is being pushed over the bottom edge of the kidney plate (maybe because of the thigh). Helmet may be a bit too far off your neck, but question is how is it aligning to your eyes? I'm not sure if these would be a sticky point for EIB, but most probably CEN. Either way you'd probably want to look at them anyway for your own comfort.

Read all the bullet points carefully, compare it to how your armor looks on you when you wear it. Ensure the rivets, whether they are painted or not, is accurate. Check the gaps between your ab and kidney, look at the kidney notch, wrist return edges, etc. If you feel it's all good then go for it and submit an EIB application, if there's anything you missed it will be pointed out and in the process if there are any updates that are felt necessary for CEN they'll be pointed out as well. Good luck, RSP are nice (I love mine, albeit ANH and I opted to build it myself, but personal preferences ).

It's actually neoprene. I opted to go with that for many reasons. It's a lot easier and cleaner to install versus painting, doesn't smell, provides a touch of padding, absorbs sweat, adds insulation, and better covers seams/bolts/etc. The actual product I used was this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00488DB10 More details of this helmet interior build can be found on the howto post I did if you're curious: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/39469-howto-super-clean-helmet-electronicsinterior-build/

Love looking at helmet interiors, so much room to get creative and so many different things you can put in there to suit personal needs. Here's mine, four 12v fans doing ~15CFM, iComm, Aker1506, powered condensor microphone, bluetooth transmitter to chest 10W speakers, 2W hovi speakers, and a switch box to toggle it all. But, beauty is you can't really tell outside the fans that all that is in here hehe (you can check out the thread I put together on it if you're curious: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/39469-howto-super-clean-helmet-electronicsinterior-build/)

It's part of the audio system: Mic > IComm > Aker > Speakers So the Aker's takes the output feed from the IComm, amplifies it and outputs it to the speakers.

Woohoo! A big thanks to anyone and everyone who helped get to this point. It has been such an incredible ride going from the big brown box day to this ultimate point, but so very rewarding. I'll proudly wear this badge and help others achieve the same degree of standards. I'm about to embark on a cruise with the whole extended family and this awesome news certainly sets a very happy tone to start it off! <br><br> Next up, the road to a HWT conversion kit!

Name: Derrick Meade 501st ID: TK-11778 FISD Handle: Kamikaze EIB Submission: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/39365-tk-11778-requesting-anh-stunt-eib-status-rs-propmasters/ Garrison: Old Line Garrison 501st Status: http://501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=22817 Height: 5' 10" Weight:190bs Armor Maker: RS Propmasters Helmet Maker: RS Propmasters Hand Plates: RS Propmasters Blaster Type: OzLogos E-11 Canvas Belt: Trooperbay Neck Seal Maker: Trooperbay Boots Maker: TK Boots Holster Maker: Darman's Props Electronics: Custom rig with Aker/Icomm/Mic/Fans Here are the fixes highlighted in the photo. In summary I did the following: (1) Replaced the cut out wrists on the forearms. (2) Removed as much of the return edge on the chest as possible before hitting the screws (it is now 10mm thick). (3) Painted the inside of the hovi's white with their outline at the tip also white as shown in references (and replaced the screens with a more accurate version). With that, here are all the photos for the Centurion submission! Front Arms At Side Back Arms At Side Left Arms Raised Right Arms Raised Left Side Detail Right Side Detail Action Shot Interior Strapping Butt/Kidney Not Fixed Left Alignments Right Alignments Back/Chest Connection Shoulder Bridge Back Shoulder Bridge Front Cod/Butt Connection Abdomen Details Belt/Boxes/Holster Front BeltBoxes//Hoster Back Thermal Detonator Back Thigh Pack Left Thigh Pack Right Knee Plate Left Knee Plate Right Forearm Wrists Helmet Front Helmet Back Helmet Right Helmet Right Angle Helmet Left Helmet Left Angle Helmet Interior Exposed Electronics Helmet Interior Hidden Electronics S Trim Lens Color Hovi Tip Detail Frown Mesh Detail Neck Seal Hand Plates Blaster Left Blaster Right Blaster Top Thank you for your consideration and time!

Oh no worries. I do have a rather custom build electronics setup too, but the purpose behind this particular thread was how to go about actually hiding all of what you have inside in a clean and fairly hidden manner. With all the options either "off the shelf" or home grown, the other variable I was presented and often questioned about is how to get it all in a helmet in a clean and seamless manner. I was hoping to answer that particular question here in some flavor, since I think being able to put it all inside your helmet without actually seeing any of it exposed was a neat thing and worthy of a guide.

Anything I'm demonstrating here can pretty much be done with any combination of electronics you have for your set. The basic gist is how to mount and hide your kit using some tricks that I try to illustrate herein.

I'm not using Ukswrath's kit, but his would work fine as well since you're ultimately going to hook up some type of speaker to the 3.5mm output jack of the Aker. I used an Aker MR1506 in my build. If you don't want to do too much DIY then I think buying a kit where the hovi's are all ready to go like in Uk's kit is the way to go.