cjdesign

Sanded the end cap of the mag and spring button. Keeping the "off" stamp.

Trigger switch Hard to see how this part is attached in the reference photos above. I don't see the round base per the real sterling switch, so i will just remove it and glue the switch the top of the handgrip with a small gap in between.

Ammo Cartridge: I'm using the PP ammo mag that came with the pipe kit. The part was damaged in transit and needed extensive cleanup, but since this build is not clean and perfect it will due nicely as is. I noticed the mag on the "pugman" is only long enough to accomodate the retention clip on the size. Need to cut the mag to length and remove the clip. Cut: sand the base t an angle remove the bottom material from the clip standing flush.

Secure Stock: The stock was glued to the body with CA glue and then screwed together. Secure Grip: Fill

Remove Ejector: I used my Dremal with cutting disc to remove the injector pin.

the original screen used "Pugman" didn't have any machine gun markings, but I'm keeping them intact and adding my TK number as well. I love this mod.

Fill in grip pin hole: According the ref images the round end of the gip pin is filled in with a small dot protruding out from the center. I searched my pen cup and found something they may work to replicate this. Fill flat...

Fill The Scope Rail:

Glue Back Cap with CA glue.

Using E6000 to glue the top rail to the body. set min 12 hours Once dried, I removed the excess e6000 glue by peeling off in one piece. x-acto/utility knife bmay be required to remove all glue.

Top Rail: Initial fit of the PP top rail. it's flat so using the alum pipe that came with the kit as a sanding block to curve the bottom of the rail. Although the pipe and dds body are difference circumference. This method still gets me closer. the gap will get filled with putty. Note: Not sanding over kitchen sink. this is the best light in my house to take photos. LOL

That's right. The date on the grip reads "Doopy's 2013" i drilled out my last dds grip for a real pin, but I do remember it being in the FREE position.

I'm noticing the PP grebblies are not 100% actual to the ref. images above. This piece could have been longer in comparison, but still ok for this project because DDs is smaller then actual Sterling SMG. I glued this grebblie with CA glue angled down and parallel to the ejector port. I didn't want the stock forks to cover and overlap the greeblie.

Light Sanding with wet/dry:

Adding Filler: Once the pipe was inserted. I glued the grip with CA glue and started filling the holes with epoxy putty.

In order to fill the holes in the DDs body I had to insert a 1/2 PVC pipe to act as a backstop for my filler. The pipe was glued in place with CA glue.

That's a great question. I don't think I've read what the base material was made from. I assumed it would be cast resin, like the RS Propmasters version. I already have a hyperfirm blaster for trooping and the dds kit is less expensive. The alum pipe was out of the question for sure. I used the POR15 15 years ago during a car restoration with some rust spots. It's a two part putty like green stuff, but has some great properties, like being able to use water to smooth out prior to curing, and there's a lot of product to work with.

Small T-Track: There a small t-track that bridges the gap or holes on the bottom side of the blaster. The t-track greeblie that was included in the PP kit did not fill all the holes, it was too small by 50%. I had an extra t-track from previous build, so I measured the dds opening (hole to hole) and added approximately 3/8 for bend and melt factor on each side. sanding down the sides and top. glue with CA glue or similar glue. CA Glue: Final Glued T-track:

Fill in the side of the front with Por15 and sand smooth (but since this a rough pugman, not too smooth)

All of the original holes and gaps are filled in on this style of blaster. I had this stuff in the garage left over from a car restoration and it should work perfect as a filler putty. You can use water to smooth it out before it cures, so minimal sanding is required. In some case I want to match the original non sanded rough surface of the "pugman"

The first step was to remove the details from the front muzzle Before: After:

Purchased a e-11 pipe promo kit from Phoenix Props a while ago and decided to finally start using the greeblies to create a Empire Strikes Back promo blaster (also know as the "Pugman"). The PP kit came with the aluminum pipe and various resin pieces for a full build, but I have both DDs & PPS kits at my disposal and want to choose the best parts for the build. Comparing my Doopy Doo's parts to Phoenix Props parts are night an day. The PP's are actual 100% accurate casts of sterlings. Doopy doos parts come close but are "fortified" in curtain areas eg stock arms, ammo recession, smaller receiver tube to be more durable and have more of a creative license. The "pugman" blaster is a rough cast without much cleanup I though my doopy doo's body and grip would be better suited and save the aluminum pipe and other "PP's original casts" for a future replica build. Thanks to Phoenix Props in Germany for making a great "promo kit." Here is my reference for the pugman style blaster:

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-84922-Silicon-Carbide-Grinding/dp/B00004UDKD/ref=sr_1_sc_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1529527340&sr=8-5-spell&keywords=demil+stone https://eugenetoyandhobby.com/shop/k-s-9810-heavy-wall-aluminum-tube-8mm-od-x-76mm-wall-1/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7P-SyY3j2wIVUoN-Ch30JQ8PEAQYAiABEgJltPD_BwE

Hey Joey, My ESB DDs thread is available under my signature. Please post questions regarding my build under my thread. thanks in advance.

Carl Harmon 10171 Centurion Letter Tony Thanks! http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/10171-centurion.png