Tig70

Rich these T tracks are wood I've still yet to mould them . I can believe there are lots of ideas on what's accurate , but it seems there is no 100 percent correct answer , just lots of theories . Has anyone ever seen the real thing ?

Yeah will do Rich when I get a spare hour or so ,and Cheers Kalani Today little job is T Tracks , decided to make my own, thought I should or its not my build , funny bit is I made some excatly the same a couple of months ago for a mate who's made a Rouge One E11 which he's cast , if i'd thought about it should have made them at the same time General idea seems that all the T Tracks are of the same or very similar size so made my 11mmx 8mm with centre fin 4mm thick . Looking at the ref pics of the DLT it looks like the T tracks are rubber as they sag a tiny bit over the cooling holes in the barrel , and are very thin on the edge of the track , so had to comprimise on this as getting the wood that thin is near impossible , also got to be able to cast it as well, Iv'e made them over lenght so once Iv'e got my final lenghts will cut them and put the notch for the wire as well ,

Really nice Darren , that's some serious work ,to make the bi pod work very impressed

Well done Rich your not holding back and taking the easy option on this . keep up the good work mate ,

Finished the small plate on the ejector port , Had to make this out of metal as I could'nt see how else to get the shape into it , a bit of metal work ! thats something I dont do alot of , also used a bit of filler to smooth out some of the marks from dressing it into shape and the rivets are actually holding the little angle bracket on . Quite pleased with that .

Yeah rich just thought I'd show you how to work plastics , maybe you can try a bit harder

Not had much chance to get things done works been taking over my evening as well , but did make the cocking pin mechanism last night decided to make this out of plastic as being pretty thin would be very weak in wood . manadage to use a knurling tool to cut pattern in cocking pin but took about 8 go's to get it ok ,and cheated with the good old cooper rivets as well

Man i was wondering how you were going to get this to bit to look right , your not worried about getting this cut up to get it right .Got to love that polyurathane .Brave Man

Started making the Bi Pod and am thinking that I may stick to a fixed position as very complex to get all the bits to move and be strong enough . Then realised I need to finish the part on the main gun so made the catch on the end of the feed cover .Managed to get it down to 2.5mm or 3/32ths" thick but it starts getting a bit fragile to machine .Tried using a knurling tool on a spare bit of wood to cut pattern in the side but it only compressed the wood with very little pattern . So after a couple of hours and a steady hand cut them in by hand with a small triangular file ,its a bit wider gauge than the oringinal but considering hand cut pretty happy.

On my last build I used some modified plastic H track but not very accurate thou but quite tough . I was hoping you would got a good idea to sorted this ,as I've only got making them from scratch . Wouldn't have a clue on 3D printing as I'm a techno fobe . That's why my's an old school timber build . Anyone else ?

Yes Rich thats what I did with my first build ( on here under, New Members Self Build )but also used ally rod for the inner barrel for extra strenght with that one , and a bush under the anti aircraft sight as well . I was worried about the 1"1/4 being weak with all the holes in it and 1"1/4 can sag over time , It also more differcult to bend shorter length of pipe , you also end up with a sort of triangulation with the inner and outer barrels as the outer would either need to streach on one side or compress on the other if you where to try to bend it . But it not too late I could still machine the the anti aircraft sight out on this one . Something to think about indeed

Very well done ,looks amazing .where are going to get your T tracks from ?

Cheers Rich <br> Yeah used that pic as one of my references . The idea of doing this way is that the outer barrel fits over the shoulder on this part ,the inner barrel passes through and is stiff enough to carry the outer ,when the outer and inner are glued to all the barrel parts it should also add even more structure . I've also made a bush to fit at the mid section end , I'll post some pics of my idea .

Got to say the Anti Aircraft sight was a bit of trouble to make as a few of the bits where to small to use the machines. so after many hours of going back to some small hand tool, fine files and careful sanding I think Iv'e managed to get the main details , and as carefull as I could be some dont look quite as sharp as when there machined .but as mate said when your 3ft away you cant see it .

Well done Rich that is looking great keep it up

Yeah Rich that is the plan but i am a bit concerned about how strong it will end up , so I wil continue and see what happens

Cheers Guys . Now for the muzzel parts . Iv'e found a high density PVC pipe to make the inner barrel with which is 20.5 mm O/D or 13/16th" so bored my muzzel parts to fit this all the way through the barrel, so you can see it once the outer barrel has all the cooling holes drilled ,and it should also stiffen up the hole thing nicely .the flash surrpressers ID is th same as the PVC inner barrels I/D so once assembled you can look down a continues barrel. Not made the front sights yet but maked centres for the mount pins so they can be drilled once cast and be moverable , also trying to make the bipod mount so this can swivel as the original by machining the circular groove where the white ABS pipe fits . and will drill the holes in the outer barrel when I get to putting it together .

Fantastic set of armour . Congrats and welcome to the Ranks . Got to love the look of that TM

Been a while as works been keeping me busy , so here's a few more new bits Iv'e got done. First the rear sight , the only thing is I couldn't get the numbering right as I dont have the right punches ,but I think it still looks ok ,also made the site so it can be laid flat or raised and the range finder can slide up and down the sight , The mid section I made in two the same as the real MG34 as its the only way I could get the seam on the connection right ,which also allow me to mould the smaller section with the maid body and the rest of the mid section seperate as I think they will need to be moulded different ways . The two centre mount ring on the barrel will need to also be cast seperate to get the small circular channel on the inside . Also discovered that 1" 1/4 Solvent waste pipe has the exact OD of 1"1/2 push fit waste pipe ID so Im thinking of casting 1"1/2 in the mid section and the barrel which is 1"1/4 will fit perfect ,and use the two small screws in front of the mid mounting point to secure , or thats how it go's in my head to get my barrel conection , Almost forgot the little cut out on the stock as well . Any thing else you can see Iv'e missed please let me know , two heads are better than one Cheers Andy

Congrats Dale welcome to the ranks ,got to love that TM look

Congrats Steve great to see another TM Centurion .

Looks so good .Top job Christina welcome

Congrats man great job , you got to love that TM

Cheers Guys . Here is todays work on the next bit ,did a bit of cheating by using copper rivet rather than making wooden ones. The block covering the ammo port and the little block above with the pattern in it, will be made seperate .I will also be making the saftey catch as a seperate item to be fitted as I dont think this could be cast in place. Cheers for looking

After making my first DLT I've decided to have a go at making a castable version. I'm making this one out of Whitewood as the grain is less evident once painted. I've used the refrence pics at the top of this forum page as I'm trying to get this as close as possible with the limitation of the wood and my tools. I will be making it in several bits as it is too complex to cast in one piece. I have seen a few videos for mould making and casting and it doesn't look too complex but if there is anyone with experience any advice would be very welcome . Here is the first part primed ready for moulding.