dapradiel

I see the marks now, that'll work

Hi Tony! I'm guessing you already know this, but just to make sure: The two parts should not overlap under the strip, but go up against each other. On this part, I think the easiest way is to start with the side that has the raised area for the strip (the one you have the strip taped to in the picture) and measure out 7.5 mm (for a 15 mm strip) on each side from where you want the edge of the strip, and then make two straight cuts. Then tape it up and make all size adjustment on the other side.

Costume Reference Library. "Each reference guide contains pictures of the costume, a detailed description of the parts, and requirements for 501st membership." http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:CRL

That's what I thought, just making sure. Thanks!

A blaster is required for EIB, but does it have to be an E-11 or is a DLT-19 acceptable?

I'm almost 6'4" and decided to go with Troopermaster. Works like a charm, though I don't think I could have been much taller. He offers an XL shins option which is a must. Also one of the nicer and more accurate kits around. Love it.

Requesting 501st access, please. TK-10199, Nordic Garrison http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=20108

Am I correct in assuming that once heated and put on, they'll be stuck on there without any glue?

Hi Does anyone have any advice on how to heat the end caps on a TM thermal detonator to make them fit on the tube? I tried to use a heat gun on my armor recently, and let's just say it's not something I'm excited to do again..

How does it compare to Hyperfirm?

What material are these DLT-19s made from? Can they handle being dropped?

Is using 5/8" snaps a problem (for Centurion)?

All right, thanks guys

Hello FISD Working on my Troopermaster kit, I ended up with a pretty oval opening on the upper end of my forearms. The parts were rounder to begin with, but I have skinny arms so I had to trim quite a bit. It's difficult to tell from the picture, but perhaps someone has some experience with this: Should I try to reshape the piece for a rounder opening? If so, what's the best way to do it? One of them is already glued. Will heat, hot water for example, mess up the glue (E6000)?

I tried e-mailing them about buying multiple items, but they never replied so I bought from someone else. Don't want to sound like a douche or anything, but if they can't be bothered to reply to my e-mails I'm spending my money elsewhere.

Nice I think I will use this method for my drop boxes as well.

How did you use the soda bottle cap?

In other news.. How I trimmed my TD endcaps: I adjusted the pen to where the tip was 20 mm (~.75") above the table and taped it down. Rotating the endcap, I made a line all the way around. I then held my knife steady at an angle between the table and the cap and rotated the cap again. After a few rotations I made 10-20 mm wide cuts in the excess plastic and snapped it off piece by piece. A tiny bit of sanding and they came out surprisingly even.

His sale thread: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/13511-for-sale-anh-hero-neckseal/

FWIW on size: I wear size 10 US (43 EU) Converse. My feet are a bit wide, but not so much that I've ever had to look for shoes made for wide feet. My IB TK boots are size 11 US (44 EU). I've only used them a few times. They fit, but a little tighter than my Converse - deep enough for my toes, but a bit narrower across the widest part of the foot. Being leather I'm sure they'll be comfortable once I've worn them in.

Got something done, though not a lot and it took hours.. :S Started with the bicep and cut away the flash with curved scissors, then sanded with sanding paper. Quite happy with how it turned out: But of course, issues: The parts don't line up. I guess sanding down the middle is the easiest solution here? 15 mm strip for scale. Proof of work done.

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It begins! Finally! Excited, we got our kits, laid it all out, looked at it for a while... then checked out a bunch of pictures and videos online, made a few small cuts, and packed it all back up. Building these kits feels like a mountain climb right now, but although we didn't do any actual climbing to speak of, at least we've set up base camp. Still excited and motivated, just need to figure a few things out before we really get going Pictures! This is how the parts came, we haven't done anything to them yet. Should the return edge bend in more than this, or can we just cut off the excess plastic and sand it? We'll be using snap plates and straps Kidney - the edge is at a nearly 90 degree angle and about 10 mm wide. Ab - edge is between 45 and 90 degrees at different places, width also varies: Is this about right for the cut?

Hello FISD! After procrastinating way too long, we're finally starting our builds! We have two Troopermaster 1.5 mm kits and plan to build one Stunt and one Hero. We want Centurion at some point, so we'll be going for that from the start - no point in doing things twice, right? We want to use this thread to document what we do, keep track of our progress and motivate ourselves - and probably ask hundreds of newbie questions Our goal is to have both kits done and approved before Episode VII. Question: We plan to start trimming some parts. The TM parts have an edge already, but is this enough for a return edge? What angle should return edges be? Should the plastic fold back on itself? (Pictures in post 3 on this page.) REFERENCE COVERING STRIPS - Biceps and forearms: 15 mm - Thighs and shins: 20 mm SHOPPING LIST COMPONENTS [x] Boots - Imperial Boots TK Boots [ ] Neck Seal [ ] Holster [ ] Belt [/] Gloves [ ] Undersuit [ ] Voice electronics [ ] Fan electronics [/] Blaster TOOLS [ ] Dremel/rotary tool [ ] Straight lexan scissors [x] Curved lexan scissors [ ] Snap setting tool [x] Clamps [x] Files [ ] Sanding paper [x] Sanding sponges [/] Magnets [x] Exacto knife [x] Metal ruler [x] Painter's tape [ ] Brushes SUPPLIES [x] E-6000 glue [ ] Snaps [/] Split rivets [x] Speed rivets [/] Chicago screws [/] Black 1" elastic [/] Black 3" elastic [/] White 1/4" elastic [/] White 1" elastic [/] White 2" elastic [/] Black 1" nylon strapping [/] White velcro [ ] Wire/fiberglass mesh [/] Paint: Humbrol #5 Admiral grey, #15 Midnight blue

He's on holiday. All of August last I heard.