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shnar

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Everything posted by shnar

  1. So I just installed my EAS system (only took me a year), and everything is working, but when I turn the volume up to even know settings, I get the feedback scream from the mic. Did I install the mics to close to the speakers? Is there a way to isolate better with say foam or do I need to move the mics? You can see where the mic is here. I put it there based on a tutorial I saw a while ago, liking the idea it was hidden by the band. ---------- -shnar
  2. When I was at Disneyland, I asked them (they had the Vader outfit for sale, but no TKs) and they said Anovos was their supplier for the costumes and suits (Vader, Han, Imperial Officer, etc). So I'm guessing Anovos already knows? -shnar
  3. I bought the $350 first wave, and since this was my first kit ever assembly, I was initially happy I didn't have to piece the helmet together. I figured at $350, a pre-assembled helmet was worth it. I'm a big guy (6'2", 295lbs) so had to shim the crap out of pretty much every piece (Biceps, thighs, calves, waist) but in the end, it looks great. The only cracking I've had so far has been in the rear butt piece. I need to reinforce it. But the rest has worked out quite well. For a first time kit, I *highly* recommend it. I'm thinking of getting a different kit for my second one, but for now, I'm very happy. -shnar
  4. I'm doing most of what people are recommending, except scuffing the area. I'll do that on the pieces I resand. Most of the areas that unglued are ones that are receiving unusual stress from wrapping around my large limbs. For example, the thigh pieces I had to shim out 6 inches, and that made the front bend at a strange angle. The glue stayed for the most part, but was rather fragile, a good bump and riiip, the glue came apart. I'm wondering if I can morph the way the armor bends, so there's less stress on glued joints. Will post pictures a bit later. I also wonder if climate had an effect. I glued them in a very dry, arid area (Utah), then went to a humid area (California). Went to Disneyland for the Trick Or Treat night with my family. My forearms seemed to be glued just fine, but by the end of the night, two of the joints just undid themselves. No real stress, they just peeled apart at a touch. -shnar
  5. I'm piecing together my Anovos armor, and the E6000 glue doesn't seem to like me. It's always popping off pretty easily, after days of setting, especially on the larger pieces like the thighs. Am I not using enough of it? Should I be more generous in my application? What's the secret for getting this to stick for long term? -shnar
  6. When it comes to final matching, I'm thinking of just painting the whole thing one particular color, so everything will eventually match. That kind of shimming is exactly what I'm trying. I don't think I want to resell, I'll just keep plugging away. Either I'll *make* it fit, or I'll lose some damn weight -shnar
  7. Minor update, I did find this article: ------------- I found similar sheets that look like they'll work at my local Ace Hardware and I shall attempt to shim my shin pieces today. I'll probably do one piece that's an inch longer than I need, glued to the inside of the armor, and a second piece that's the amount I need glued to that (i.e. 2 pieces back to back). Will report back with progress. -shnar
  8. So I'm working on my Anovos kit, the forearms pieced and glued together no problem. Moving on to the biceps, the pieces are too small for my arms. I test the calves and thighs, again, too small. I simply cannot close the pieces in my sizing tests. I'm a bigger fellow, 6'2", broad shouldered and on the heavy side (295 lbs), so I obviously need to shim these pieces. I'm just not sure how to go about doing it. Here are some pictures: I've tapped up the "fronts" of most of these, and as you can see here, I haven't trimmed down the front to the desired widths for the cover strip: Here's how tight I can get it on the back: The Bicep: Back of my thigh: So 3 main questions: 1) How to go about shimming. I'm not really sure what the general approved process is. These pieces are two wide to use any of the left over strips I have from cutting them from their molds. And how do I shim in the first place? Do I butt a strip against one of the cuts, then on the inside put a glue 'shim' down? Are there any good articles for shimming? 2) Where can I go to find a similar plastic to use to shim these? Would Lowes/Home Depot have something I could use? Some sheet of similar plastic to cut and glue. 3) Mold Edges, should they be cut? The edge of each piece has a 'thick' corner, shown here: Should I trim off those edges? Can I and still qualify for 501st? And on which pieces? I did on the forearms, and they look pretty good, and are also required for Centurion approval. I'm not too concerned about that, but would love general approval. Seeing how small the thigh piece was, I trimmed those off, but the calf piece almost feels like it's needed. Any help here would be appreciated for us larger folks. Needless to say this is a bit discouraging, but I'm assuming overcomable, just need to be pointed in the right direction. -shnar
  9. Oh, and with that much needing to shim, should I trim the front piece down to 10mm on each side? That will remove a good inch off the armor piece... -shnar
  10. Oh, and should I trim the interior edges of the armor? Like on the bicep pieces? (I did, so I hope that's okay, but my leg is still too thick) -shnar
  11. I'm having the same problem with the thigh pieces. Like a 3 inch shim at least I think I'll need. Lesigh. I'm not sure how to shim it though? I threw all my excess pieces away. Are there good articles on shimming here? -shnar
  12. So I apparently have 16 inch biceps. Even trimming the edges down, the kit's biceps are too small for me. What's the best way to shim it out? -shnar
  13. So finally getting around to piecing my Anovos together. Got all the main parts cut out and starting with the forearms. My question on the left one, what size am I sizing it to? Is it supposed to be tighter than what the piece is already? It's kind of tight on the elbow side (haven't trimmed off any of the gain), but the wrist side has got about 1/2 inch freedom especially after trimming the front gain. Is that about right? -shnar
  14. So now that you've built the full kit, what's your review of the Anovos kits compared to others? -shnar
  15. When I wear the helmet, I feel like I'm suffocating, hard to breath, etc. Is there a way to get around this? I'm assuming it's because, well, oxygen. Will adding fans help? -shnar
  16. Yes, I bought them right at the May 4th time frame, so $350 each. The helmets alone seem to be worth that much, so we're tickled pink with the kits. The eyes look like they'll be easy to trim excess edges and sand. The lenses are green and just one curved piece that presses on my nose. Is green more accurate than say smoke black? I might want to replace them all together. Going to be a fun father/son project, we'll take pics and keep this thread updated with our progress -shnar
  17. I almost missed delivery #3 (because Anovos decided to make the FedEx have signature required, couldn't have them just drop off the boxes, so I had to work from home today to make sure I was here to sign for them), but quite excited to get 2 different ANOVOS suits (one for me and one for my 17 year old son): Helmet looks great for a "retail" prebuild. Now I get to go through the pains of learning how to assemble a kit -shnar
  18. I ended up getting a grade B E-11 and DLT-19 Hyperfirm. Also got a really snazzy E-11 with real scope, counter, and magazine holder (rest are good replicas). And ordered a JJ E7-11 (or I think the official term for Episode 7 blasters is F-11D), so I think I'm good on trooper blasters. Now I need to get my hands on a DL-44 -shnar
  19. Me too, and I have to say, they are of the highest quality. I almost expected mediocre quality but with visual accuracy, but the leather is very good, solid, thick, smells fantastic. I'm considering buying another pair just to wear normally. -shnar
  20. I think Anovos was saying that they wouldn't be ready until Jan or Feb -shnar
  21. Ahhh, makes sense. I've got a kit coming from Anovos for the TK armor (hopefully) soon, and figured I'd check on the FO armor as well. So joining the 501st someday soon I hopes Thanks, -shnar
  22. I've been seeing mention of Alpha and Beta kits people have gotten, assuming from Anovos, but I've search and can't find a post explaining where or how such kits were purchased. I can't find anything on Anovos.com either about such kits being available. I'm assuming these were sold "by invite only" as specials to 501st members? Is there any way for us pre-members to gain access to them? -shnar
  23. The helmet is self contained. There are AA or AAA battery packs for the various electronic devices (there's 2 for each fan, 4 for the EAS, and I think a 9volt for the wireless mic). That's assuming you use the wireless mic option. And then you put padding over all the wires, so none of the wires are 'visible' and don't get accidentally entangled in anything. -shnar
  24. I was very tempted to get a Hovi mic as well, but by the time I saw them, I had already ordered the iComm + wireless mic. The Hovi Mics are cool because then everything is contained in the helmet, and you don't need that external amp/speaker. So, for example, you could wear the helmet with something other than the armor (like a tuxedo) and still sound Stormtrooper-y. The only thing that would make this *perfect* is if you could rig the Hovi Speakers up to a rotary switch so that the hovis could control the on/off and even volume of the speakers (both voice and ears). But I digress... I don't have my bucket yet (it's an Anovos kit, so sometime this winter) but once I do I'll post pictures of installing everything. -shnar P.S. I've edited my "bundle" post for the link to ukwrath's selling thread for the Hovi Mics/Speakers.
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