Rat

Welcome Martyn. Good luck on the build and remember measure twice or five times and then cut. Also never a dumb question and we love photos. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Put simply it states in the CRL minimal gap. I think this should be acceptable, but I'm no D.O., Deployment Officer. I'm centurion approved and I'm sure I have at least that amount of gap. Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk

For basic approval they are fine. Higher levels won't matter for your local GML as these would be passable for basic. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

I remember following Dianes build, but when I went to review it many of her photos are blurry for some reason. May be something on my end so I'll try again. Most of the nodding I have to make are in width not so much in height. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Thanks Daniel. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Thanks Tony. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

So this is a great honor and privilege a future garrison mate has entrusted me with. I'm up for it though there will be some modification needed. Anyone with tips on resizing the kidney, back and chest would be handy. This is mostly because I'm not sure of methods to do so. She is also a bit on the thinner side at roughly 5'7" and 150 pounds. So I've already gotten her roughly fitted and know those areas will need to be addressed. I'll reach out for some info on higher levels and what is acceptable as I go as well. She may never apply for anything more than basic, but I'll do my best to build to Centurion. So off we go to interesting territory. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

So I've put the bucket on hold for now. I've been laying out my parts and getting them ready to trim for the cover strips. I've realized that Walt's kit compared to my Anovos TK is a bit snugged. This is sort of good and bad all at once as I'll have less trimming and shaping especially in the forearms and thighs. Shins seem about the same and I've hardly trimmed anything from the main body minus the return edge. This is naturally making me think more before cutting. I'm also unsure of shimming or if I want to squeeze myself in. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

I use score and snap, Dremel, belt sander and various things for sanding. Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk

This is my bicep from my current build it is also a WTF. I may even trim it more. Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk

5mm is pretty close to about a 1/4", well between 1/8"-1/4". Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Any ruler with metric should be fine. I have a standard ruler and a 4' one that I use, that one is handy for straight lines while doing your trimming. Like your shins, thighs, forearms and your cover strips. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Nothing is really unfixable. Read through some of the EIB and Centurion approval threads. It can help a lot. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Yes and no it sort of becomes a personal thing for people. Using the bracket system you need a bare minimum of 5mm preferably 8mm to make sure you have room for your screws. The less you leave more likely it is you'll have to use snaps and nylon or elastic strapping. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

For the bottom of your bells leave about 2-3mm it helps. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

A good point of reference is that your 45° notch on the belt should line up with your fabric belt. This will leave you with around 2-3mm overhang with the plastic belt. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

So the first photo is my belt and roughly how it should look on the fabric belt. The second is the top of my thighs. I had to trim them down for length and I still probably should remove more of the length. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

As for the general depth of return edge 2-5mm seems about the average. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

With your thighs I would strongly advise you to remove all the return edge your thighs and "bits" will thank you for it when you start walking around in it. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

No worries Josh. That is why we are here to help you along and get you in the best looking set of armor possible. Snap plates are essentially a piece of abs with a snap put into it and then placed on your, lets say lower back, you then make another that aligns on the upper kidney plate. You then use elastic or nylon strap and place the other half of the snap in it. Then you connect the two pieces. I used the bracket system, but the idea is the same. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Hey Josh one thing to remember is return edges are not required anywhere and they really are up to you and how you're comfortable. With that said how will you be strapping it? Since you've removed most of the return edge from the connecting parts like the bottom of the chest and back plates I will guess you are doing snap plates or something similar Now with that out of the way it looks good so far.

Thanks Glen. Yeah it can be red, pink or anything in between. Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk

Yeah I'm gonna make up some 1200 grit sanding sticks to clean the teeth up. Eyes need a bit more dremeling. Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk

The ears are going well though. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

So I'm a complete beginner when it comes to building buckets. So far I'm doing alright, but I'm not sure where I should trim to for the opening. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk