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Novak Dimon

Imperial Attaché[TK]
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Posts posted by Novak Dimon

  1. Left thigh:

    The last days I was working on the strapping during the curing time of the right thigh armor

     

    First I installed the cover stripes on front and back. The tape was holding the part to bend it a little bit into shape:

     

    E4537DFC-F7D2-4618-BCFD-F9A38339E14C_zps

     

    Next was gluing the front.:

     

    60AB78ED-57F3-44F1-9591-65EB21890AC2_zps

     

    Then the backside:

     

    8175B4F1-3638-4D80-BC6B-69E7137418CC_zps

     

    And the finished left thigh after cleaning:

     

    9A86DA24-1657-4120-A694-DC7D8AA31E7D_zps

     

    9C20B6EC-C5A4-4AE0-A37B-3361CEA6D97C_zps

     

    >>> to be continued >>>

  2. Time for a new update!

    During the last weeks I wasn't lazy. I worked on several parts and continue my report with the right thigh first.

     

    I continued gluing it step by step, starting with the fore side:

     

    image_zpsvhcdgcrt.jpeg

     

    Next I glued the rear cover stripe...

     

    image_zpsqzrdeusx.jpeg

     

    and finally closed the thigh:

     

    image_zpsc096u3q5.jpeg

     

    I had to wrap the thigh into plenty of tape to shape it the way I wanted it.

     

    After curing I cleaned the thigh. Then I grabbed the ammopack and pre-installed it with some tape to mark the positions of the holes:

     

    0C140CA4-12DE-4D1B-BBC6-9E79A5349A00_zps

     

    AA7FD7AF-913D-42A1-A950-B0E2E9618B3B_zps

     

    F7CB2423-5979-4072-A447-688DFF663D91_zps

     

    The goal was to install the ammopack with equal distance to the rear corners as described by Ukswrath.

     

    Some action for my drill:

     

    AA1DC839-3E54-4351-821C-AB7BF630F1A6_zps

     

    And fixed the pack with the split rivets, delivered by Anovos:

     

    286A3B6F-B664-4FFF-8221-6E4BCBFD2C0D_zps

     

    F1285F3E-EF90-4D4F-8371-7CEF4C0EADA7_zps

     

    The distance is looking ok.

     

    1B2899F5-32D1-42F6-A959-96B51B556F5D_zps

     

    At last I painted the rivet heads with glossy white paint:

     

    90963D67-56B6-4DDB-91B8-63CA99D83FF4_zps

     

    C8F78C8B-14F9-4A9B-B644-B54A5DF8D54C_zps

     

    Thereby the right thigh armor is complete. :)

     

    B3EDDF22-9664-48DB-9428-6592AAEAF92F_zps

  3. Starting with the thights.
    Again I trimmed the parts first, using the trimmlines, and then cut the front to the size of the coverstripes.:

    14E599F3-64AF-49EC-BF47-32A009B5E4DC_zps

    DFCC4D21-A0BC-404D-84F3-AABC63635930_zps

    Drawing the trimmlines:

    ECEF0D04-9E65-4B1F-BBFC-C0359747444A_zps

    42449080-12BC-452B-8866-137340F8510C_zps

    Front of the right thight after trimming.

    ECDC4C76-8522-401F-912B-6F633D56C188_zps
     

    Same at the left side. To fit the thights I trimmed all return edges first. I only left very small return edges to keep the parts looking thicker. It was impossible to make the parts fit with the return edges. I did the same with the shins befor installing the rear coverstripes.

    Now I was able to figure out how much I have to trim to make the thights fit.:

    8F63D859-07DB-4C19-946D-63F0883A4B64_zps

    Then I started gluing the thights, starting with the front.:

    983778F4-6345-4948-BAD7-796A6A9B2919_zps

    I prepared the thight ammo pack also:

    025C1B24-2C6A-450E-A8B9-E29E25E65FC9_zps

    2DB52E8C-C248-45C6-820A-7F460B4E87D0_zps

    >>> to be continued>>>

  4. Next update for my Trooper-build:
    While I´m happy with my shins and no one posted that I have to correct something, I decided to glue the parts together.

    098057B0-841C-4767-890F-855EBFA9BB96_zps

    EFC5BE2B-004C-41C4-BF58-F223D47864C1_zps

    During the curing time I trimmed the sniper-knee...

    9AD7CF95-52A2-497A-B925-8F48C4678841_zps

    F1861375-97D2-401F-BCB9-BE67BF024272_zps

    74AF906D-19C0-4ABC-B1AB-9BB06B51F80E_zps

    ... and glued it:

    2C2E8383-AB45-4426-B362-FEA8DE201A83_zps

    7C4820DF-8630-4769-9E86-72CB60F30B61_zps

    Bending the part around the shin was quite hard but I have strong clamps. Here the final result:

    6788A175-6AF4-4440-B503-48084009AD47_zps

    A1C731A7-BFA8-49B4-8969-0D1E1C2F8AEE_zps

    F99ADBAA-691D-4729-B408-5CEE84BEA00F_zps

    A723E9AA-C01E-4EFD-A4F6-A416C3BF3889_zps
     

    Leaving the backside of the shins. I don´t want to use the velcro under the coverstripe. The original bra-hooks are also not the way I want to go. I´ve seen a thread here where someone used inner and outer coverstripes and only one snap or maybe some Velcro to close the shins. Unfortunately I don´t find the thread anymore. :mellow:  Though I want to test this solution. First I made inner coverstripes from some scrap ABS:

    8769F821-5926-46EA-B4DA-76E4CF02EDB0_zps

    0A4F800B-1740-45A6-B22E-E3B1EFDC4AFC_zps

    Gluing the stripes:

    9F1CF486-4A2F-4D5C-870B-CC87C0F3C9F3_zps

    D157CC3D-AA97-490B-B94E-4BD365EDA6CC_zps

    I used a piece of coverstripe to remove exess glue from the gap.

    1FD8C34D-74EA-4E8E-AB44-5A557EE1A070_zps

    862FBA75-633E-4235-9C8F-ADE48AAAB060_zps

    This is leaving a thin film of E6000 inside the gap, making it sticky and helping to hold the shins together..

    Here some pics of the finished right shin. The small flap on top holding the two parts in one line and the gap is a little bit concealed.

    C511D638-2B46-40BE-86EE-E20A9D682BE6_zps

    Shin closed:

    8289FD5B-A22D-42F8-99A2-20EAD09AF408_zps

    Inside view:

    6CAC80D6-6D4E-4A6A-B975-F74F6C8F3C8E_zps

    F532929D-C54B-4F89-B32C-C476B857A3D3_zps

    And a final test fit:

    D8359B96-6418-48F5-A0BB-36BD8167D0AC_zps

    B180AB66-4E45-4FFA-B4A6-9F6CA8BF43CD_zps

    52C5AB0F-EE35-4D52-80DE-0BC7674809BC_zps

    2780409C-333B-490A-8FEF-BBC1D4D9AF1A_zps

    I was wearing the shins a while for testing and they never opened. But i think I will install a snap anyway to make shure the shins are not open during a troop.

     

    Next are the thights.

  5. Ok, Shins next.

    Because the massive discussion about the labelling of the ANOVOS shins I decided to stop reading, forgot anything about it and just started building them, putting together the parts the way they fit best to my legs.

    I started to trim the parts 24 and 25 (the right leg!?):

    E422628C-687B-4D22-BD76-21C51FA0F7AB_zps

    61FADCD9-D209-4F61-A827-1ED6DD2A9E4B_zps

    Then I cut the area of the fore cover stripes leaving 10mm each side. Looking already ok here:

    F0120BFD-431C-47FC-8BB8-BC69B847C11C_zps

    I have to cot some material here:

    2C5FC4AA-9B43-4436-8BDE-36A3875676E5_zps

    Drawing a cutting line with the ruler:

    569DF385-FC77-4582-80D6-05A924A8B9E6_zps

    Score and snap and finished. By the way, I always cut without the ruler. For some reason the cut is more staight without it . :blink:

    9BA1F054-ED39-458D-B28A-9694673C72D3_zps

    D694FFA5-68E8-4E08-B90B-B7815B1AB81A_zps

    I trimmed the right shins afterwards.

    E97E9EBE-68AC-4AE4-BE10-B070A7546A05_zps

    Again I marked the 10mm:

    CA271C77-AEFB-4465-9FFE-751709B59B16_zps

    (Right) Front completely trimmed:

    415928FC-36A7-4869-9598-8FA82E51ACFB_zps
     

    Now I tried to figure out whitch parts belong to each other. After some tries and comparisons I decided to use my shin parts as labelled by ANOVOS. 24 + 25 for the right leg, 27 + 28 for the left one.

    Next step was the fitting. I took the parts on and of. Adjusted caerfully and made markings here and there.The back of my shins was looking a little chaotic for a while: :unsure:

    A2289956-2878-4183-A651-87D1C4470DEB_zps

    Here some pictures of my final fitting prior to gluing:

    A7EF24F8-92F3-4B36-A16B-98768990EA0A_zps

    4100B77A-7CAE-4E30-98C2-27781A3B450A_zps

    DA55EB99-46A0-406B-A049-561471DA08E8_zps

    B320767C-4125-4226-ACC4-BEA468042913_zps

    What are the experts saying? Go  :jc_doublethumbup:  or no Go  :duimomlaag:  ?

    That´s it for today. Im looking forward to your feedback! :salute:

    >>> to be continued >>>
     

  6. New Updates today.

    After drying I removed the exess glue and protective sheets from the left biceps part.

    E43B9036-5901-4FF4-9CC9-E252BAE30BD2_zps

    F5930C6C-76AD-47FB-879D-8B5AA7590CD7_zps

    96269908-476B-4D20-9971-484EB8CBBDEC_zps

    Then I glued the right part as well. Removing the magnets was a pain every time. Thats why i wrapped them into painters tape. This improved the handling very much!

    4180BC49-C76A-454E-B6C0-15152DF84029_zps

    9D7D96FE-90E7-401B-B47E-42BCF1314E49_zps

    The finished right biceps part:

    7334B1A8-4A53-47FA-8C12-5FC8763A4F45_zps

    0BA06CE6-0E84-4E17-AE85-9B73B426D8AF_zps

    4EDD920C-9277-4461-9D4B-15F5BC50EA89_zps

    Comparison of left and right biceps:

    A700A53C-027F-46A2-A23D-478E0EB01BFC_zps

    For a test fit of the arms I made some temporary strapping with painters tape. :smiley-sw013:  What do you think?

    47A18890-1044-42EF-A999-9E889F98F33E_zps

    Next are the shins.

    >>> to be continued >>>

  7. I trimmed the biceps parts during the last weeks

     

    Left side:

    6E73B80C-A0E2-4D64-9149-01223461343F_zps

     

    DC7026C6-45A3-4B82-AAFE-0FBBD1C804E5_zps

     

    Right side:

    24B873EC-3CC9-41E1-A696-75392D3F5677_zps

     

    F961F732-2EDE-4E03-B40E-43554E953E46_zps

     

    Today I made the fitting and pre-assembly of the right parts and glued the left side.

     

    Left side pre assembled:

    D779C05D-171C-42AA-B612-37689217D93F_zps

     

    647539AE-E1FD-461D-A1EA-87D983A04002_zps

     

    And the right side:

    0497AE15-7EFA-4C95-B856-2C36FB5F653C_zps

     

    07C7EB49-DED6-4DCE-9553-D0EC1CE9567C_zps

     

    D6BDD290-528F-46C2-A35B-98528FAFF7FC_zps

     

    At last I glued the left biceps armour. I tried out to glue the parts completely. It worked well so I will do it again in the future.

     

    61F85FF8-6BF4-4F92-9E28-79B59E2C1478_zps

     

    70EEB6EF-06D3-4124-8846-056C0C583775_zps

     

    That's it for now.

     

    >>> to be continued >>>

  8. During the curing time of the glue I trimmed and sanded the shoulder bells.

     

    Before:

    5FBF3630-0D1A-47AB-98F3-6A2AB51FC0CA_zps

     

    After trimming:

    9C7EA716-5305-46A0-8F15-3D278AA86927_zps

     

    Sanded left side:

    3C80D6F1-7A39-40E2-8E3D-47E596F498F5_zps

     

    The area of the return edge is vey thin at the left side:

    F233D179-C44E-4991-AFE0-0CA16A1C73EF_zps

     

    I reinforced this area with E6000:

    94C87D36-C168-4F3E-8AB6-B86DDB7EC1A5_zps

     

    Next step: biceps armour.

    >>>to be continued >>>

  9. Time for an update. During the last weeks I had way too much work and spent the few free hours mainly with my family.

    But anyway I managed to finish the forearms of my armour and and commenced the works at biceps and shoulder bells.

     

    After gluing the fore cover stripes I prepared the back facing cover stripes and glued them as well.

     

    Cutting the edges...

    IMG_3653.jpg%5B

     

    Sanding the back of the cover stripes and covered areas of the armour...

    IMG_0181.JPG

     

    Glued and clamped.

    IMG_0182.JPG

     

    Then I glued the two pieces of the forearms, starting with the back facing side (as recommended):

    IMG_3658.jpg

     

    And then the front side:

    http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y332/Novak-Dimon/TK-Armor/B1E9DC84-C92C-4B51-AC70-3C5B16ED8279_zpsz7vu3doc.jpg

     

    http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y332/Novak-Dimon/TK-Armor/F58DB448-A78F-4D8C-A5B2-930589C0E63E_zpswhhwybc9.jpg

     

    http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y332/Novak-Dimon/TK-Armor/5921F55C-5474-4404-B0D4-E85BF2494336_zpsd4ofosm5.jpg

     

    After the curing time I peeled off the excess glue. Using E6000 is really handy here.

    http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y332/Novak-Dimon/TK-Armor/054195A8-41C1-4EFF-B18B-91149FB4A693_zpsrusw1k71.jpg

     

    Then I removed the protective covering and voila the finished forearms:

    http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y332/Novak-Dimon/TK-Armor/41361687-9D54-4C96-836B-7FB0F512BDE0_zpsgnwsypyh.jpg

     

    http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y332/Novak-Dimon/TK-Armor/6DF880D4-304D-4498-B876-738BB5B5962D_zpskmheercm.jpg

     

    http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y332/Novak-Dimon/TK-Armor/A19A6060-AFD2-4A7F-BA70-EFD3D399012C_zpss7bj2no9.jpg

     

    http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y332/Novak-Dimon/TK-Armor/BF51189E-FF8E-4218-9008-E09C9253ABC7_zpseq3njlu3.jpg

     

    http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y332/Novak-Dimon/TK-Armor/36F311C6-FCCA-4905-852F-8E488FEB1A1C_zpsk7xbl6pv.jpg

     

    >>>to be continued >>>

  10. You are right. After changing barrel and bolt, it is possible to shoot ammunition. <br>

    By the (German) law the barrel has to be fixed to the housing only if it can removed without tools. To remove the barrel of the Sterling you indeed need tools. That's why the deac of my Sterling is absolutely legal. <br>

    I guess that's the reason why the gunsmith got the permission to do it that way. ;)

  11. @dreadnaught33:

    Thank you! I'm always happy to hear that others use my conversation as inspiration. :)

     

    Barrel not welded into the tube? Oh oh, not good. :blink:

     

    This way it´s still interchangeable with a working one - your gunsmith should know that.

    That's no issue because the trigger group is deactivated and welded into the housing. Everything is approved by the authorities. :)
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