ukswrath

ALRIGHT! Terry, congrats brother.

NOTE: The goal here folks is to look as accurate AS POSSIBLE . With the exception of a couple items not mentioned in the CRL yet you will NOT be held back during approvals for something that is NOT in the CRL. If a FISD Deployment Officer suggests making a specific update to enhance the overall look of your armor it is for your benefit, not mandatory unless statd otherwise. During my build there have and will be areas I will mention L3 required, L3 suggested, or for accuracy only. I know this can be confusing and I apologize. If you have any questions or doubts free to ask questions or seeks others advice. I don't expect anyone to take my word as gospel. For the record, though not mentioned in the CRL the following items will be expected to be fixed at the Centurion level: 1) The Anovos frown is a common concern with a over or under spray paint job, for L3 "stunt" it will be required to be fixed. This includes removing the over spray (if any) and painting it correctly. In addition you'll need to add paint at the lowest edges of the frown corners (just past the last tooth) where currently there is none. 2) The Hovi screens have also been known to be incorrect. Please ask myself or someone with knowledge regarding this issue to take a look. 3) The waist cloth belt will need to be replaced. It is not meet L3 standards. If you have any question feel free to ask away.

The black paint is not in the CRL, neither is the required "D" ring photo needed at the time of EIB application. The CRL is a work in progress. Small things like the black screw paint are may not be there yet, but it will be a suggested addition for accuracy during your L3 application, if you choose to shoot for it. M4 may work better, you're more than welcome to try. Pan head screws or their size aren't mentioned in the CRL either, but having them installed, and being painted black is again something we strongly suggest be accurate during the L3 application.

Hey bud, according to the accuracy crew the size and shape of the Anovos 22mm notch area is correct. At this time, besides minor return edge trimming there's no plans to change it .

I have a couple interested parties looking to purchase my left over internal suspension material. Besides Tim (Dark CMF) for the life of me can't remember who the other person was. Pleas chime in if it was you.

Continuing on... 9c. Shoulder Bell strap installation cont... We left off making the elastic that attaches the bell to the shoulder elastic. In this segment we'll attach that same strap and install the lower bell elastic strap also. In the shoulder strap assembly segment we placed the female snaps approximately 3/4" from the inside (neck side) of the 2" shoulder to back elastic. This leaves 1-1/4" gap between the same snap and the outer (shoulder) side of the elastic. The goal is set up the bells for a nice tight fit against your shoulders and the chest plate cover strip. Probably the #1 recommended correction at the Centurion level. Using magnets or other position the bell to shoulder strap so that the male snap center is approximately 1" from the bell. This will create a negative (overlapping) of the two materials of 1/4" factoring in the elastic stretch. Afterwards mark the inside of the armor at the opposite end of the elastic. Prepare for assembly and apply glue to armor. Similar when installing the calf elastic use a piece of scrap or other to evenly distribute the pressure of the gluing surface. Apply clamping tools. Let dry. Installing lower elastic. In this section well be installing the lower bell elastic used to secure the lower bell to your arm, and later on I'll be illustrating how the same strap will be used to support the bicep. I'll be using the Anovos supplied elastic for this are which is roughly 3/4" wide. Reference picture Starting with the Anovos supplied elastic, remove the sew in velcro. The elastic will be place just above the lower return edge. Center the elastic, mark the location, apply glue to the armor and secure for drying. Note: You can choose use the entire elastic strap length or trim some off. I may have take off an 1" or so. Finished with the bells, ready for final fitment check

Nevermind, maybe I should learn how to read haha Have you talked to Jay GGG? He's doing a lot of stenciling these days

HAHA I did the exact thing for the officer pistol but used the sound boards also. Don't think the sound is accurate but whatever

Alright Karl, thank you for posting the last piece of the required picture puzzle. Let's get you approved CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted. With that Sly and myself would like to congratulate and welcome you to Expert Infantry, congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we'll make suggestions to make your armor look better. Gotta look good if you want to represent the Imperial Army right? Our only concern we have at the moment is your Thermal Detonator control panel. It appears the front lower return edge is still there. We suggest removing it. Centurion Suggestions: In this section we make suggestions or requirements that will be needed for Centurion approval 1. The rear of your thighs have a seam visible which technically should be under the cover strip. We suggest you use ABS paste or something similar to cover the seam. We also suggest, if possible, running the cover strip vertically to match the alignment of your calves. 2. Tucking in the bum. We suggest lowering, if possible the kidney and ab a bit. The goal here is to tuck in your bottom and reduce the gap between your ab and your thighs. 3. The front forearm cover strip appears to be too short in comparison to the other arm sections. We suggest you replace it. We also suggest checking the remaining strips to ensure they are uniform with the others. 4. Touch up the helmet tube stripes. They appear to be flaking off. 5. And finally, the CRL states Little to no gab between the kidney and ab plates. We're requesting you close the gap especially on the rivet side. That's it. Hope to see you at Centurion. Great job Karl

Here's what I'll be running in my F-11D Blaster Electronics 3-5cm L.E.D. panels from www.elwirecraft.co.uk Panels – http://elwirecraft.co.uk/el-products/el-panel-categories/el-button-2-49-3cm-diameter-for-realistic-tron-costume-fancy-dress/ Splitter wire - http://elwirecraft.co.uk/el-products/el-accessories/2-to-1-splitter-for-el-tron-wire-2/ Coin cell mini inverter - https://www.adafruit.com/products/1350

Hey Kalani good questions, here ya go 1) Holster straps - Allowing the straps to remain long is perfectly fine, though I would suggest cutting it off just below the upper hole. 2) Velcro, I pretty certain they did that to give the area some strength and support so it wouldn't sag too bad with the blaster holstered. 3) Canvas bet to ammo belt - Pop rivets or similar Hope this helps

Here's a reference photo from the wrist side. The oval shape get worse as it nears the elbo. If you don't like the shape you can always give it a hot water bath but note, this is the asymmetrical design of the right forearm.

Kittle makes Shadowtrooper belts http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19803-fs-white-canvas-belts/ Shoot him a PM regarding the black he sells

That's characteristic of the right arm. Normal

Black is ok for basic 501st approval and even EIB but since we're encouraging everyone to shoot for Centurion, white is suggested. Thanks David

Contact the following person. DLT-19 Rifle - Rose Liscomb, [email protected]

Hey Richard, great idea. I'd say chase your dream, do a bit of research and see what's available on the market.

I believe the kidney is the only area that has the issue, and not everyone has this issue.

haha OH YEA!

My pleasure, and welcome to the FISD BTW!

Awesome read. All hail to the Chief!

3g. Sniper knee, rear cover strip and calf closure elastic system installation In this section I'll be illustrating how to install the sniper knee, rear cover strip and the elastic/hook rear calf closure. Starting with the sniper knee plate. As mentioned and illustrated in the Pre-Assembly section, optimum placement of the sniper knee is such that the rear trailing edge follows the same contour as the shin upper return edge as seen here. Note: It doesn't have to be perfect, just close. Test fit prior to gluing To make things a bit easier during assembly while sniper knee was temporarily in position, using a pencil I ever so slightly marked front cover strip just below the sniper plate. The following images will be the suggested gluing areas. I found it easier when using E6000 (or CA) glue to glue the front first, let dry, then glue the sides. Front. Apply the glue, clamp and let dry. Make note of the sniper knee lower edge mark. I know same ole picture, but you're getting the point right? After glue dries do the left and right sides. Note: I prefer to leave the center clamp on during this next step as an added security due to the sniper knee will be getting twisted quite bit. After I'll post some side shots later today, somehow I forgot to upload these to photobucket. Rear cover strips Measure and cut strips to length using the following and remaining unused strips. One half of the cover strip will be glued to outer calf side only. The other half of the cover strip will be used to conceal the elastic & hook we'll be installing and close the gap between the two sides. Test fit the cover strip. Add glue to the outer calf side. Note the object separating the two sides. I've done this to help prevent anything getting in way during this process. If you choose to use this method be sure the outer calf (you'll be gluing to) does NOT bend out of shape in the process. Adding glue Adding and securing the strip. Let dry Elastic & Hook assembly At this point is where we will be drilling the holes for the elastic & hook assemblies. Note: If you wish not to use velcro instead (accepted at all levels of approval btw) then measure, cut and install the velcro on the back side of the cover strip and on the opposite (inner) calf. Another note, It's rumored the Anovos supplied cover strip is wider then needed. I suggest you cut the width the same as the remaining side of cover strip (about 12mm). This should give the area a nice clean look. Before you get started with either, if your rear calf halves do not sit flat against one another, due to fitment, trimming or assembly, this may effect how the two halves come together and look. If you have excessive gap or shape the "hot water bath" is a excellent solution. For the record this is not a requirement. What is a requirement is that the rear calves be closed. How you choose to do that is up to you. For those that are interested my ATA rebuild thread (the "go to" link is in my signature below) has a section dedicated to calf hot water bath. Drilling the holes for the hooks. Note: From all my research I have yet to find any specifications regarding where the holes are to be placed other than there's three, one a the top, middle or lower middle, and bottom. As seen in this picture there are two sets of holes, possibly for different size legs, I'm not sure. We'll be making one set, closest to the inner cover edge. Measure and mark the location for the first hole 20-25mm from the upper return edge, and approximately (5mm) from the inner cover edge The lower hole will also be around the same measurements, 20-25mm from the lower calf edge, (5mm) from the inner edge. Split the distance between the two for the center hole. Drill the holes using a 1/8" drill bit. Later if you find it difficult connecting the hook you may want to open it up a bit with the next size up bit. Just be careful, if you take too much off you run the risk of weakening the area. We know there's inconsistency with the armor thickness which directly effects it's strength. After Installing the elastic & hook assembly The goal here is not only to close the rear calf half but also make sure the connecting hooks are hidden (as much as possible). This doesn't have to be perfect. Test fit. Install the hook in the hole and secure it with your hand. Get an idea of what you're looking at and how it works before gluing the elastic down. Hold the elastic firmly while trying to separate the shin halves. The two sides should stay relatively close together without the hook showing from outside the cover strip. Again, this doesn't have to be perfect, close. After the initial check I'd determined I will need to place the end of the elastic (hook side) 1/4" away from the inner edge. Your's may differ depending on the side of your calf, how much tension there is between the two sides, etc. Mark the location of the elastic with a pencil (draw an outline). This helps greatly during assembly The same measurements cab be used with the remaining holes unless you have an area requiring more or less tension. In that case adjust accordingly and mark that strap location specifically. Once your ready to install, either use spare/scrap material or other to evenly distribute the clamping force against the elastic and armor. Apply glue to 2"+ section of the elastic or armor, it doesn't matter. Clamp using clamps or magnets. Let dry Final shin images coming ...

AH HAHAHAHA Edit: Stop over thinking it