MechaPumpkin

I don't know, but if you get that info, would you mind posting here? I can guesstimate it, but a definitive answer would be great.

Lots to say and show today. First, my TK Boots arrived! These are from TKBoots.com. I have heard nothing but the BEST reviews of them. They have had problems with their suppliers for the last many months (almost a year, since I have been on their waiting list since July 2014). They finally had some "substandard" boots available, and they said they would probably be up to most people's standards, but they're perfectionists, so they insisted they be discounted. i figured why not. Heck, just over a year ago it was part of the Centurion CRLs to have "scuffed" boots anyway (no longer the case), so I ordered. they look and feel great! TK Boots . . . Next, my bodysuits arrived. I ordered these from Pleasuresports.com here . . . http://www.pleasuresports.com/neosport-unisex-sport-skin.html A great deal at $37 USD. The quality feels outstanding. I'm 5' 8" and about 180 lbs and this fits just tight enough that there's no chance it'll sag anywhere. Almost too tight, which is perfect. Now the logo on the chest is going to be a problem. I got all kinds of advice on what to do with it. Some people suggested sharpie or fabric paints, but both of those need to be re-applied every few troops. Others suggested a piece of fabric be attached over it. I figured there had to be a way to remove it, so I got Googling. It turns out the two recommended methods were acetone and goo gone (or similar). Because I had Goo Gone and it seemed the less harsh choice (it is essentially citrus powered and has no corrosion warning on the bottle), I went with that. I dipped that area with the decal on it in Goo Gone and just rubbed at it with my nail and thumbs and it all just came off. It didn't come right off right away. There was a lot of rubbing . . . but it's gone! Next thing I did this week was finish up all my painting. So I manually painted all my traps, tears, and ears. I did the grey first and then just carefully did the blacks with a thin brush (including rank stripes). As for the lines on the rear traps and tears (necessary for ANH Stunt), I made a template. I scanned in the decals that came with my AP kit and created a PDF. I printed and compared and it printed 1:1 perfectly. Just in case someone else needs it, I put it up on Dropbox to download. Here is the link https://www.dropbox.com/s/ihf6qwvxkqojbl2/APDecals.pdf?dl=0 Ieven included a ruler so you can make sure it prints out the right size for you. Next, I cut out the traps and tears (only one of each since I could flip them over) and exacto bladed out the lines. I used a pencil and did a rough line, then hand painted. I also painted the ear screws white. Template . . . Pencil lines . . . Finished product . . . Now you may have noticed that my tube stripes are even cleaner than before. That's because I was at Sayal Electronics and I found these things that work like the toothpicks do, only extra absorbent and extra awesome. I'm not sure if I could use them alone to clean it up, but man did they ever clean up that last bit great. Just dipped in paint thinner (NOT ACETONE!!) and rubbed and picked at it. That's my update for now. Please leave any comments, as I am always looking for pointers. Thanks!

Thanks! The videos that Jesse put up in the most referenced thread no longer work. So this is a big help.

Since this thread is here, I figure it might not hurt to add some info I have gathered. The dimensions for the aluminium bar you need are 1" x 1/8" and the strips should be around 10". I got a 36" bar from Canadian Tire for $6, so I may make mine 9" so I can make two sets. The holes drilled should be 1/8"according to a couple sources I've seen. The screws should have 6mm heads, and technically they need to be panhead and slot. I believe you can use screws or bolts. They are supposed to be black, but I am sure you can paint them if it matters. You should paint your ABS (or whatever kind) of pipe the same gray as your tears and traps, frown, etc. From the latest EIB/Centurion CRL "Thermal detonator belt clips must be positioned near the end caps with a approximate 1/8" (3 mm) gap" These aren't all the answers, and I'm no expert, so don't take this info as 100% approvable, but this is what I plan to do, and my goal is Centurion. I will edit this or add a post if I find any new info. Here is a link to photo references of the originals . . . http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/album/51-thermal-detonator/

So today I am going to post what I did/what happened with my tube stripes. I am doing other painting at the same time, but I'd like some feedback on the current state of my tube stripes, so I thought I'd post. To make a long story short, I followed some good advice from two different people, one of theme being Squeaky from this forum, and the other, I'm not sure is on here (Arnold, if you're here, say hi!). If you purchase a tube stripes template (there is a good one available from Trooper Bay), or if you make your own (as I did), the advice from Squeaky was this . . . once you put your template in place, lightly brush it with one coat of white first to seal in the template so the colour you're using next won't bleed. While I followed this advice, I really did NOT stick my template down very well, and I got major bleed anyway. This is fine, because with the use of toothpicks (and later discovered nail sticks used for painting nails) and a bit of paint thinner (NOT ACETONE!!), you can really clean up a paint job, even if as horrendous as mine. The second piece of advice was to make the template myself. We know the stripes should start about 1 pencil's width from the ridge above the tube, so you just put down a strip of masking tape there, bordering off the top boundary. Then you cut a bunch of curved pieces of masking tape, the right width, and lay them in a row (you'll see in the pics). Then you place the second border of masking tape and voilà . So without further delay, here are pics of my template, my paint jobs, my disastrous results and my clean up job . . . The home made template: My white paint to seal the template (I used too much, and that was part of why I had so much bleed): The first coat of blue: Don't panic! Yours likely won't even look this bad, so trust me when i say it can be fixed: After cleaning up with toothpicks and nail sticks dipped in thinner and picked at/rubbed at. Not bad eh? Still needs some clean up, but that'll be easy: This is what a nail stick looks like for those of you who rarely paint your nails. The flat end was great because it rubbed really smoothly, and absorbed a good amount of paint thinner: What I learned at this stage: You can make your own template and save yourself $20 Do a first coat of white paint (very light) to seal the template to avoid bleeding. Wait for it to dry before applying coloured coat. Remove template after colour coat is applied, but do not wait until dry as that will pull the paint off with the tape. Wait about an hour or two. After that, let it dry for at least 24 hours before cleaning it up. Bleed WILL happen Use a toothpick and/or nail stick with paint thinner (NOT ACETONE!!!) to clean up your paint job.

That's a great idea! I'm gonna have a look tomorrow and see if I can do this. I'm an IT guy, so I have a tonne of the hardware you mentioned. Hey, did you plastidip the inside or is that paint? Send me a link to your build and I'll favourite it. I'd like to follow. No rush on what/when you post!

Send me a link, I'd love to see. I can't do bubbles because I'm stunt, but I really like them like that. Its the one thing I'm jealous of hero for, haha

So I started doing some more painting (tube stripes, teeth, ears, traps and tears), but I'll upload pics on that when I'm done. In the meantime I decided to get some work done on my lenses. I have the film that came with the kit, but I also have a welder's shield from Acklands-Grainger (I think it was this one). I hear the material is much better so I figured I would do a quick trace of the eyes with a marker on paper, make it about half an inch bigger all round and just give 'er. I figured tin snips would work, like the ones below, and they did, perfectly. I also decided (at least for now) to finish the edges with hockey tape. I might take it off later, depending on how I adhere it to the helmet. More on that when I do it. For now, here are my new lenses . . . What I learned at this stage: Tin snips work great for cutting welder's shield

usaeatt2, all I can tell you is that the image I posted looks like it was created by the same person who created the original image (PDF) you were referring to in your original comment. The original PDF on the thread you mentioned (and I was referring to), is 6 years old. In that very same thread there are many comments regarding the need for an update. Senior members of my soon-to-be (fingers crossed!) garrison told me that the colours in the image I posted, are the current ones. The image itself even states that the tube colours are revised FROM French Blue, which it previously was. Even more telling is that the (older) reference guide makes reference to "Midnight Blue", and calls it "Traditionally conceived of", and implies that it's acceptable, but now they know better (I guess from cleaned up images of the originals?). Long story short, my go-to advisers tell me it's this, so this is what I am using, and there are a lot of factors indicating this is revised, and actually revised by the same person who made the original. I hope that helps.

Vocoder painted with Humbrol #85 Coal Black. Critiques always welcome! What I learned at this stage: The Humbrol paints you need are: 85 - Coal Black Semi-Gloss Satin Enamel (All the black) 5 - Dark Admiral Gray Gloss Enamel (ab buttons, tears and traps) 14 - French Blue Gloss Enamel (ab buttons) 48 - Mediterranean Blue Gloss Enamel (tube stripes) 22 - White Semi-Gloss Enamel (rivets and other areas) Paint guide, current as of today (there is a very commonly referenced thread on here from several years ago that does not have the correct colours):

I do, yeah, they came with my armour kit. I was specifically looking for tutorials to put it together, and attach it (clips).

Okay, so I finally found a much easier way to search the forum. I am sure many people know this, but I didn't. The forum search doesn't seem to work very well for me, so I kept trying to search through Google. It worked, but I had to slog through a bunch of irrelevant search results to find what I wanted here on whitearmor.net. It turns out, if you do a Google search with the preface site:whitearmor.net you will get results only from this site. Anyway, since most people who see this topic will likely be looking for what I am looking for, let me save you some time and post a few links that I found were still relevant (many were not as the video and images linked are gone). These are the ones I found with useful info after searching "site:whitearmor.net thermal detonator" and "site:whitearmor.net O2 Canister": http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/21889-thermal-detonator-help-request/ http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/20355-thermal-detonator-appearance/ http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/21206-thermal-detonator-screws/ http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/18211-thermal-detonator-paint-color/ http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16912-how-to-attach-o2-canister/

I have searched high and low and I can't seem to find threads related to the O2 cannister/thermal detonator. I also can't find any posts about how to make clips, or approved ways to affix the detonator/cannister, or even a thread on possible sources to buy clips or attachment hardware. I also hear some are modded to be a useful place to store stuff, so I'd be interested in that as well. I apologize in advance if it's obvious and I'm failing at searching. Maybe I'm just using the wrong search terms. Can anyone point me in the right direction for this? Thanks!

I wish I could take the credit. I ordered pre-trimmed (and now that I know how much more is involved, I'm glad I did, but not next time). AP did it for me. From what I've seen so far (the pieces I've examined closely), their trim job is amazing. Highly recommend it for a first timer with so much new stuff on their plate.

Thanks Squeaky. Good to know. I learn so much every day, which is why I've started to literally list what I've learned at each step. I hope this proves valuable for future AP builders (and others, of course).

So yesterday I put together my bucket. This was a fairly easy process because I ordered my kit pre-trimmed. Now it was easy, but at first I had no idea what to do, and it was still very intimidating. At first I didn't realize it came with screws, and I had watched several videos that all involved rivets. In my case, all 4 holes per side were pre-drilled, and a set of 8 screws with nuts were provided. Couldn't be easier. So for anyone reading this who ordered the AP kit trimmed, there is absolutely no measuring that needs to be done. Also, if your AP kit is not trimmed, there are screw "bumps" there for where to drill, so there really is no need to measure in that case either. Your brow will line up where mine does, if you follow those drill guides. First slide the brow trim over the front edge of the back piece. You do not need to, in fact you should NOT, glue it at this point, as you will need to slide it back out to paint. The only reason you want it on now is to make sure it fits in once the helmet is together. Then, you simply make sure the back piece overlaps the front piece, screw the two small (Robertson head) screws into the front-most screw holes in the group of three. In all cases, the nuts go on the inside. Make it tight, but don't over-do it, as the ABS could split. Then you place the ears on, and use the longer screws (flat head) to go through all three pieces of ABS and screw the nuts on the inside. Again, tight enough that the screw heads get flat, but don't over-do it. Don't worry if the there are small gaps between the ears andthe helmet, that's okay, and were present in the originals (check out the photo reference guide, if you're concerned). So this is what it looks like done. I learned a couple more things along the way, because I am moving slow as molasses, and I don't regret it one bit! What I learned at this stage: Ears can have a gap between them and the helmet. Some people use rivets to assemble part of their helmet, but the AP kit comes with screws for this purpose. Do not glue in brow trim at this stage, and in fact, some people never glue it in and always keep it held by pressure alone. I was told something in between, just a few tack points of glue, is also a viable option, and is almost definitely what I will be doing (also on the base trim). On the subject of trim - The base trim that goes along the bottom of the helmet that comes with the AP kit is also a U trim, but for Centurion status you will need to acquire an S trim (double U shaped). When adhering this trim, I was told to make it about an inch longer than you would think, and allow the pressure to hold it in. Also, I was told to have the ends meet in the front, by the Vocoder, because that area is painted black and better hides the seam. Last, if you think the opening at the bottom of your helmet is too small, you may be wrong. You put it on sideways and then rotate it!!!

Just to keep adding to my actual build progress (I won't bore people with all the ordering and searching I've done regarding pieces, tools and materials until they come in or are in use). Today I replaced my gloves. So for anyone reading this as a guide, I thought I would give some details. When I ordered my AP armour there was an option to get the gloves I needed for $7. While this is not expensive, these are Dollarama gloves (literally), and cost $2 CAD at any Dollarama. The ones I received were size L. I do not have tiny hands, but I'm 5'8" and large are just a little too big. Also, to avoid "swamp hand" you are going to want cotton gloves for inside your rubber gloves. Also available at Dollarama. Even with the cotton gloves inside, I needed medium, not large. The cotton gloves are one size fits all, and they fit me perfectly. So just for reference, here is a picture of the large gloves fitting too large, and a picture of the medium gloves on, with the cotton gloves inside. You can see the exact product you'll be looking for at Dollarama, in the background. The "Large" ones that were too large . . . The "Medium" ones with cotton gloves inside that fit perfect . . .

I am a little confused. I was told that this was a new and updated painting guide . . . Does anyone know where the thread is where this is located (I'd like to see a better image)? I have searched and can't seem to find it. If this is the new guide, shouldn't it replace the one at the start of this thread? Just hoping for some clarification. Thanks to anyone who can help!

I know this is a bit of an older thread, but if anyone can answer these questions, it would be greatly appreciated. 1. At what stage would you do this? (After what, and before what) 2. Because it's a spray, did you guys tape up your helmet like crazy beforehand? Thanks! EDIT: My bad, for some reason I didn't see these following pages. You guys have already answered all of my questions including great pics etc. Thanks!

So I understand that the mic tips that come with the AP armour kit are not acceptable for Centurion status. The CRLs state, "Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips" are required, starting at Expert Infantry level. I did some research and have now ordered a set of Hovi Mic Tips from Sskunky here on the FISD forum. So anyone following this, who plans for Centurion, there you have it. Sskunky was very fast to respond to my message and extremely pleasant to deal with. Onward and upward!

Today's update. I have been to Home depot to pick up some materials. I got many tubes of E6000, peg board, lots of blue masking tape, clamps and rulers that I needed, but I also got my storage bin, as they have apparently discontinued them and they're on sale. I got a second one, in case someone else in Toronto needs one. I also know it is "THE" bin to get, so if no one needs it, I suspect I will one day . . . I also ordered these snaps from Amazon.ca . . . http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00R44J218 And I ordered an "S" trim from Trooperbay, which I understand is necessary for Centurion status . . . http://trooperbay.com/stormtrooper-helmet-neck-trim/ and also some 3/4 x 1/8" N52 rare earth magnets from Trooperbay . . . http://trooperbay.com/34-inch-x-18-inch-thick-n52-rare-earth-magnets/ That's my update for today!

Thanks sylverbard, that definitely answers my questions re: adhering the pieces. As suspected, E6000 it is! In people's experience, given that I am not overly large, do I have to be particularly worried about conserving the ABS strips I received with my AP kit? I doubt I'll need any for side shims. I just have no clue how much material I'll need.

Next questions! 0004. I hear that ABS "glue" actually causes a chemical bond, and is not really an adhesive. So if you use too much, it will start to warp the material and cause it to warp and look bad from the other side. Is E6000 an adhesive or does it cause a chemical bond? I know too much glue is a bad idea anyhow, I was just wondering how careful I have to be with E6000. Does it eat/weaken/warp ABS in this way? 0005. Has anyone used this method for attaching straps and snaps to their armour for assembly? http://www.tonybarnett.plus.com/snaps.html Any general advice on this aspect of the build? I feel it's going to rear its head pretty early in the process, and so far I find this article makes perfect sense, but I was wondering if anyone had thoughts. 0006. My armour came with a bunch of extra ABS that I assume I can use for shims and snap plates (please correct my terminology whenever appropriate!), etc. Should I have another source for extra ABS material, or should the amount that came with my AP kit suffice? Should I use it sparingly? Thanks again! When I'm done my build, I may put together a master list of these questions and answers, so other noobs can maybe reference them at a glance. I am sure when I'm done it will be hard to remember the low level (primitive, if you will) thoughts and questions I had at this early stage. These early questions are tough to push past when you're frozen and hesitating to take the first steps.

I'm glad my kit came with a stunt helmet, because I prefer the look of the frown. Since this isn't 1977, I can make my stunt as good quality as the Heroes, that I understood were designed for closer proximity shots and were therefore made "nicer" (I could be wrong). It's funny, and you guys may have lost perspective now after seeing so many examples, but over and over I kept thinking the main difference was the brow line and that the Stunt brow line had a white gap below the black line and the Hero did not. Now I've seen examples of the opposite and know it's not a defining feature. The amount I learn each day on this forum is incredible. Thanks again guys! Yep, I think I better get to it. First step, get whatever materials I am missing from my list. Second step, clear a really big work space. Third step, choose a piece of armour to be my first victim (gulp).

Wow, and just like that I have some great advice! Okay so some further info . . . I decided one smart thing would be to go through the tutorials on here and see what materials I might need. I also got some advice from my introduction thread on a couple cool items I should get (some carpet to work on, bins for organizing tools and hardware, and a binder to keep track of stuff). Just thought I would drop my list here in case anyone is interested. Here are the materials I believe I will need (so far) . . . - Binder - to keep and reference notes as I build - Bins for small parts - Lexan scissors, both curved and straight - E6000 Adhesive - Clamps - Spring, pump, etc. - Rivets - Snaps - No-Roll elastic - Exacto blades - Metal rulers - Non-abrasive section of carpet to work on (2' x 2' was suggested) - keeps the dust and debris in an easily cleanable space - Masking tape - if all my other costuming taught me anything, I'll need a lot, and in varying sizes - Sandpaper - Rare earth magnets for clamping - Popsicle sticks (wide and narrow) to go between clamps and material - Heat gun - Paint store stir sticks - One tutorial used them as spacers when heating and bending the belt - Nylon strapping - Adjustable measuring square - Snap setter kit - Hammer - to beat myself with at 2AM when I just realize I just glued something completely backwards - Heat shears for cutting and sealing nylon strapping - Soldering iron - for burning holes through strapping for snaps/rivets - Peg board - to lay material on to more easily burn holes with soldering iron through nylon straps I didn't see this anywhere, but I would also like to add Velcro with industrial strength adhesive to this list. In my years of costuming, nothing solved more problems more quickly than this Velcro. I found a roll in white several months ago and bought it. I have no idea if/when I can use it, but I gotta think it will come in handy. 0003. Anyone have any suggestions to add to this list?