illusionz_09
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Posts posted by illusionz_09
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so as i mentioned before the first thing i did was create the Bayonet Lug by cutting and shaping a scrap piece of delrin i had.
and i also cleaned up the front sight. (pic of both the sight and the lug completed on right)
right when i started to paint outside i realized i forgot to seal the screws and lines on the gun...lol.
So using the epoxy i sealed the screws and the key lines/spots on the gun.
then i sanded them down to get them as even as i could lol...
so this is the paints i will be using for the color of the gun... First a granite base, then aluminum, and the finish off with flat black. (i will do a clear coat when i finish the whole project)
Satin Granite color went on first.
then the aluminum metallic look. I'm painting here both the gun and the back of the scope which you see on the left of the tree. (SIDE NOTE: if you want to go more accurate, the full scope should be painted copper color instead of aluminum. Problem is i couldn't find any color i liked at the store. So I just stuck with aluminum for the scope as well. yes, it gets covered in black, but just details)
At this point i decided to tackle my folding stock. Since i changed the barrel of the hasbro, the folding stock was too short so i have to extend it.
I'm sure there are other ways of extending it, but i used a piece of baseboard i got at Home Depot. the gap i needed is about 0.8 inch.
once glued on. Now just waiting for the E6000 to completely harden.
tonight i will sand it down flush and then put some epoxy for the edges. Then i can paint the stock and add to the gun. Also i have to bend the t tracks and glue to the barrel.
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Same with me! Hurry up and complete this build!
I feel you... it trying to make time to finish the build lol. I got more done this weekend. I'll post now.
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Yes as long as you connect the wires properly to the new power source. Just make sure you follow the current.
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front sight looks great. However, once you put on the doopydoo scope you wont really be able to use the scope, unless you drill through it. Up to you.
as for the pics, instead of putting the link up, click the image button and paste the url there so that the picture appears on the forum instead of the website.
Good luck with the build. enjoy it.
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I made a couple bits for the gun.
First thing i made was the Muzzle Flash Guard.
Here is a tip for anyone trying to make this: i used an end cap for a PVC pipe, cut a section at the end.
it gives a similar size/shape. Using a dremel i was shaping and bending to the size i needed.
I kept checking with the barrel to see how it would look and shape as needed...
Once i made the guard, i went to create the actual sights for the front sight.
I don't have pictures of the process, but this is what the pieces looked like when i was ready to apply.
Then i applied the pieces to the gun using E6000.
the front sight (vertical bar) seems a bit wonky to me lol. Once it hardens completely in place, i will use an x-acto knife to clean it up and make it look more symmetrical.
Once i create the bayonet lug and epoxy key spots on the gun, then we are ready for paint...can't wait.
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Hi Welcome. What part of Florida are you at?
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Haven't really done much. I used a broken LED i had to create the dot bump on the magazine. I first drilled a hole the size of the light, then used lots of E6000 to fill hole and hold the LED. then taped it up overnight (you see it taped up on the last picture) ^
this is how it came out after i cleaned off some excess glue.
Just need to finish creating a couple bits, then its ready for paint.
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Using the template for the front sight, i had an operator at work create a couple in the machine shop.
Made it thin enough to bend at home alone lol. Used some pliers and a little bit of elbow grease, but i was able to get the shape i wanted (for the most part lol).
finished adding the end cap
extra view of all the key doopydoo kit added and the tape covering the magazine where i put the curve dot. just waiting until its glued flush.
I can see the light at the end of the tunnel lol...
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My concern about leaving a gap would be durability. What would happen if it was accidentally dropped basically. As the folding stock isn't functional anyways, I would just attach it with out the gap, but thats just me being paranoid about accidents lol.
Looking good! Your almost there!
Yea you are right. I have to work with it to see what looks best. Ur probably right with just attach completely. Thanks.
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Now that the electronics are done i prepped the inside fittings. Then used painters tape to cover the LED inside the barrel so that after i paint i can easily remove with tweezers (sorry no pics of this, i just closed the gun)
Gun officially closed lol!
started to finish adding the doopydoo additions i have left. folding stock glued together to attach later. Front scope glued. Back of scope placed, but not glued. and back end cap. (i have seen the doopydoo added different ways for the end cap, apparently everyone glues it differently) its taped right now so you cant see it.
Also i marked on the magazine where i want to put a piece of broken LED to give the round dot look.
I am also debating on it i want to leave a gap between the gun and the folding stock to look more realistic. any suggestions?
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Follow this thread
http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/25919-dianas-rs-props-build-anh-stunt/
she had the exact same issue as you. Made proper modification for her height and one of the best finished trooper armor i have seen. She used Luke Skywalker as the trooper look since he was depicted as a "short trooper" in the films as well.
hope this helps.
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so the resisitor bypass can be easily seen on my thread on page 2. (Im sure there are other pics out there but i can reference mine quickest lol)
http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/27767-hasbro-e-11-blaster-conversion-from-miami/
the reason you want to bypass the resistor is to use the full voltage from the batteries. that way the LED shines to its full potental.
as far as connection points, you have the right idea. Just make sure you solder on side of the LED to the + and the other to the -. Since you are only doing one LED on the nozzle it should be very straight forward. Just use the two wires that are currently connected to the light it came with. Don't overthink it.
Good Luck!
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oh and a new LED light is like 3 bucks
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oh wow, yea you need to buy a new light. Good news is that you didnt mess with the internal electronics. Just buy a new LED at Radioshack or whereever, then remove part of that green tape on both wires and solder the new light there.
Tim's advice is right with his thread on top. Click on fuumantroops' build and you can see the LED he used. The wires shown in the pic are red and black, but they are the exact same wires under the green tape.
Now, here is a tip: if you are not going to modify the gun and if you do not have a soldering iron and any accessories to solder, then (if you do live close to disneyland and can just go in and buy a gun) i suggest you just go buy a new gun. completely up to you. personally i opened the gun and updated the electronics and made modifications, but its up to you how much you want to put into it.if time is not an issue for you, then i suggest trying to fix it yourself, that way you also make it better with a brighter and better LED light. Basic soldering kits can be bought for less than 15 bucks, solder for like 7 bucks.
hope this helps.
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are you sure you messed up the electronics? take a picture of it and post it and we will let you know what may be wrong and what to do.
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I cut off the head cap of a 1/4-20 Socket Head Screw with my dremel to put on the Nozzle.
I finished the electronics in the gun as well. As previously mentioned, the Jumbo LED I put at the base of the barrel and the smaller LED light inside the front nozzle.
A few tips to those that will be updating their electronics: use silver solder!!!! the solder with Lead is a poor conductor and a hastle, just buy a small silver solder and use that. Once i got the silver solder, it will made life much easier. I had to go very non traditional in hooking up my electronics to the power source, but i made it happen. (barrel light to the old wire source and the nozzle light directly to the circuit board, not sure if you can tell what i did in the picture.
I also glued on the nozzle and taped it to leave overnight.
Some action shots in the dark of the electronics of both the chamber and the tip ( the tip still has tape so it looks awkward)
Poor quality pics, i will take better ones once i complete the gun.
BTW, i cant stress this enough...buy new really good batteries! I used the Lithium batteries, they are great.
Now that the electronics are complete i just have to fully secure them down and then seal the gun, add a couple bits and its ready for paint. Will keep everyone posted.
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The main electronics have been soldered and updated.
I first updated the circuit board to be able to bypass the full voltage of the batteries to the lights.
Before & After:
Then I soldered the new wires that will lead to the LED lights. The green wire will be for the LED inside the barrel and the red wire is for the LED on the nozzle (tip) of the blaster. Just need to wrap solder points with electrical tape and then install the lights.
The 2 LEDs i am using are the Jumbo Super-Bright Red LED for Inside the barrel and smaller Red LED for the nozzle.
Then I glued the Power Cell on top of the magazine for the night.
slowly but surely its coming along...
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Thanks guys! Can't wait to see it finished either lol
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Looks good David! I see i've started a trend with the rear of the scope
if your able to pressure fit your lens into it, it should be fairly easy to take back out if ya decide to change whatever decal you usebtw, andrew i have an issue i keep going back and forth in my mind. Is it practical to drill the front of the doopydoo front end scope to create an actual viewing area to make the scope "useful." that way there is no decal but you can actually see through the sites and be able to use the scope...
Is that practical, have you heard anyone do that, or it just makes no sense?
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I have been traveling a lot so I have been out of it for a couple of weeks.
I got back into it last night and made a little progress.
First I wanted to create my updated trigger to look more realistic.
I printed and cut out the template trigger. Then i traced it on top of a piece of delrin "5mm thick chip" and cut out the shape accordingly.
Then cut out the area in the Hasbro trigger so i can then glue my new trigger.
Then on the nozzle i glued it to a piece of 1.5" diameter x 4mm delrin. I also drilled out where the socket head cap screws will go (i have them i just need to dremel the head and glue em on).
Also i drilled a small whole in the center where the LED will sit.
BTW...my T-Tracks came in. They are on my side pile for after my base coat is on the gun i will bend them and add to the barrel.
Then to "end" the night i glued the magazine and the counter on the hasbro to leave overnight to fully glue together. Tomorrow i will glue the power-cell fuse on top of the magazine.
Next on my list are the electronics. I will solder the new LEDs to the base of the barrel and the nozzle tip.
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Hey guys! When I crack this thing open what are the things that I need to do inside?
- Modify trigger
- Upgrade LED (if desired)
Anything else?
Realistically internally thats pretty much it. Unless you want to change the trigger guard and/or the barrel as well. It's completely up to you how much mod's you want to add to it to make it more realistic.
But as far as opening up the gun, the trigger and the LED are the main things to modify.
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great start so far...good luck
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really great tips! thanks!
E11 Display case
in ANH BlasTech E11
Posted
yes, everything came out amazing. Great job...