Elumusic

Printer calibrated and back up and running beautifully. Rear cap, spring and the interior sleeve this go around. I have no idea what that part is called. But it's usually silver. This is Group C from the model and it looks like about 26 hours on the fine setting. This picture is about 10 hours in. The file is printed at 100% fill and with supports. The spring for example has a support structure generated by the printer interface program. Once the print is done the support material comes right off. Needs some finesse and some clean up but you can clearly see the spring emerging from the print. I am using MatterControl with the Cura slicer. I have the best luck and cleaner prints using Cura. The end cap also has a support structure underneath the bolt tabs. Again, all the supports are generated by the program. I do nothing except tell it to generate supports.

I will share the moded files for those interested.

So the new solid metal print head was installed last night. The original one that shipped died two days ago. There was a flaw in the design and the manufacturer sent out a new one. For those who are interested in the specifics, the original head utilized a nylon tube to shield the filament from the heat. It was attached with a sleeve connection and a couple of small bolts that anchored it to the shaft. The shaft kept coming loose through vibration and plastic flow issues and eventually the screws stripped and the hot end failed. This new one is an all metal head, no nylon tube required. And it bolts to the stepper motor with a clamp connection embedded into the new head. So it's rock solid. No chance for this one coming loose. Now I need to re-calibrate the hot end thermister settings and level the table. Probably about another hour's worth of work this evening. Fingers crossed. I hope to be printing tonight or tomorrow. I'm always impressed with the things you can find at Thingiverse.com. There I found a support bracket for the new print head made specifically to retrofit the new head to the OEM parts for this specific printer. Luckily I printed the new bracket prior to the failure of the original print head that came with the printer.

Yes sir....well aware. But I am on a mission to completely 3D print this and to make it look authentic. I shouldn't have to fill any of it, just sanding to get rid of the ridges the printer leaves behind and make it smooth. The wall thickness is about the same as Schedule 20 PVC. I have the print settings dialed in on this printer and I am getting good adhesion to the print bed. I can walk away from it and let it run for hours and hours without issue. The last print was 34 hours. I glanced at it two times to make sure it didn't glitch and got a great print. So in actuality it's less of my time to let it print than it would be to do the PVC pipe idea which is labor intensive, and upon close inspection of the model, the model is a little more accurate than the PVC pipe version as far as details. Every bolt has been accounted for on the model. There are also inner printed pieces for the barrel that doing just the PVC pipe would not have incorporated. And again since I am printing with 100% fill, the ABS is very strong/very sturdy. The barrel thickness is awesome on the printed version. And I can actually stand on it. The handle grip on the downloadable model is too basic I agree, but I have already inserted the knerled version of the grip. And again because I have this thing dialed in, the knurling should look authentic and the only parts that should need any sanding are the smooth edges. So this is a journey to see how accurate I can replicate something completely 3D printed. I know it's probably not for everyone. I will include lots of close up shots as I print and assemble.

Starting a new build for my son's costume. We built his armor from my custom molds and unfortunately he will not have a blaster for Halloween, but with a little luck we will have one completed by Christmas. The Blaster Rifle file is available here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:957801/#files. There are 8 print groups and it's a well done model. I did make my own modifications to the files. For example I added the knurling onto the handle as part of the mesh. I'm not sure how this will turn out yet. But I'll let you know when I get to that print group. I am modifying other parts as I go. I am printing with Black ABS with a .4mm tip. 245 C degree Hot End temp and a 75 C degree table temp. As with all 3D printed files, each part needs to be cleaned, smoothed and probably painted to look authentic. Here is his mostly complete costume. Here's my new TEVO Black Widow Large Format Printer which I built. First round of small parts - Print Group A. I had to make some modifications to the sight in order to get it to print. It needs a raft and support structure and although the printer handles the support structure well, the raft I custom built into the file. These have been cleaned up a little and sanded. They still need a little more work, but I will worry about that before I start assembly. For now I am concentrating on Printing. This first round took 18 hours to print. Printed at 100% fill and a fine setting. Group B looks a little rough, but it will clean up well. Printed without support structure 100% fill. I will get it sanded and smoothed just before assembly. And now on to Print Group C. The print head on my printer needs an upgrade to the replaced manufacturer's hot end. So I am going to take this time to refit the machine prior to finishing the next Group. Stay Tuned.

Nice job! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Coolness!! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I riveted a short three inch elastic strap to the suspenders near the chest piece and put a snap onto the end. It snaps to the inside of the chest and the elastic allows it to move a little. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry. Just saw this. Been super busy. I loaded photos in my thread. Was there something specific?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's what I thought. But probably worth the $700. New is about $500 for AM but you would need to assemble and paint. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You said you are roughly the same body type as the guy on Facebook?? If you meant my size you have some refitting to do. Lots of work. So here's my take. The armor is ok. Not the best. You could paint over the old color easily. It would look great. You could make it all look really good. The edging on the armor is wrong. Talk to the guy at CFO. Mark Edwards. He's on Facebook. He sells the correct edging for the armor. The button strip on the ab needs to be a 5 button strip. You will need to modify it. The belt is not supposed to have a center rivet cover. Also needs mods or a new belt. The helmet is not the best. It's oversized. And that helmet manufacturer/maker is frowned upon in the 501st. But overall it's still 501st approveable with basic mods. I can't see the detonator or the boots. So I can't comment. It's good starter armor. I did mine from scratch. So weigh your time and pick your battles. Remask it and paint over it. Make it look more worn. But you need to fix it a little. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is have to see the paint job. Removing paint is not a good idea. I would recommend painting over the existing paint. Chemicals are no good for the plastic... And sanding would work but also possibly mess up the plastic as well. I have re masked and repainted a couple and they turned out great. The only part you should consider sanding would be the masked edges to smooth out any ridges. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yup same issue. It will be fine Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes. I did the same thing. Just not in the front. You may or may now get centurion status with it. But if you are using AM armor there is no other way to do it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No cover strips. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did the same thing with my build. Have not attempted to get Centurion, but I built it so I could. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32449-tk-commander-build-its-become-a-ocd-thing/

I used ACE bright blue. Not sure if they still make it. Took one can. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Already in discussion here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/33020-imperial-shock-trooper-could-it-happen/

Thanks Vern. I had no idea what those were called.

Work will be my first venture out. But for the party we are attending I will be Batman. Also a costume I spent $$$$ on. I would however consider wearing it to a private party. I am an adult now and I would assume that the parties I go to would be a bunch of old fogies like myself and I would not be in any danger.

I used leather finish t bolts and a post. It looks like rivets but can be removed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ROTJ armor is probably the only thing you want to sit in, less you crack the return edges on the other types of armor. Mine feels like I'm in a back brace when I sit, but it's possible. As long as what I am sitting on is soft. Probably a mental thing. ROTJ armor is nice and flexible because it has no return edges on ab and back.

Oops, missed the link. Shouldn't be surprising since we all can't seem to hit anything. This is TK 15279 of the Dewback Ridge Garrison requesting clearance. http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=19643

I'm using military helmet pads that are velcro'd in. Also removable and washable.

This is TK 15279 of the Dewback Ridge Garrison requesting clearance.