bigcheesewilly

While DD sells a very good e11 for the price, I think what actually happens is sometimes they wait for funds to accumulate then buy resin to build. Of course a supplier should never sell what they technically don't have, but it does explain why some have to wait. I've had their product shipped to me in 2 weeks and then it took two weeks just to get the sales confirmation, then another two weeks to get the product. They never reply to email, but they do always deliver eventually.

thx mate i used the search feature and got zip

I've built a few DD's, so I thought I'd have a go at a scratch built one. I've searched the forum, with not much luck so........ Were can I get a set of accurate e11 pipe plans? Where can I get T-track, not the hard resin kind, but the flexible rubber type. I want to bend it into the barrel holes. Also the pipe needs to be 40mm outside?? Thanks in advance

Don't use plastic/acrylic lenses. They never look as good as real glass. SupaKav has supplied us with the most perfect glass lenses for the e11 scope. Contact him he may hook you up. His generosity is legendary You'll need a range of spade drill bits and some gentle patience. The DD kit is excellent, but drilling the scope out needs to be done with care. We're working on casting a full resin scope that has the front and back glass lenses and is of course hollow. Something like that would be at least half the price of the original full metal tank scope, which is not readily available. http://s1219.photobucket.com/user/501ghostrider/library/

I posted on the RPF if you want a cheap but very nice looking stand. I have the free file in pdf if you're interested, just PM me. I don't get over here much, more on the rpf, but I will send it to you, just pm your email address. Enjoy! http://www.therpf.com/f9/e-11-laser-cut-20-blaster-stand-free-file-221219/

Thx Peeps The blaster stands are now available. If you want one let me know. Eli

Okay, I added the link a different way (as per instructions below) better pics, but could be more detailed I suppose.

Finally finished my DD e11. Laser cut an acrylic stand for it and added a decal with a few details. It turned out quite well, so I'm happy

I used acrylic white for the serial etc numbers, weathering is brass coloring.

A member here posted about having sourced some scope lenses. I replied that they were perfect for what I needed and couldn't really find anything locally that was close. I didn't ask for them, didn't ask for a source or any information how to get them Superkav, just pm'd and told me he'd send a set to me NO CHARGE, no problemo I was suspicious....here's a guy on the other side of the planet, prepared to send me something I need.....for free, for no good reason other than he wanted to help someone looking for a part, for a movie prop that he is also interested in. Superkav....THANK YOU Brother so much!! They arrived and are very cool...looking forward to getting them in the scope!! This is why the internet is very cool

Okay...I'll take the bait..... Most people including many members of the 501st are hardly experts on the visual differences between blasters. There are so many different variations of each film blaster that there is hardly a constant definitive blaster. Even the film blasters chop and change depending on movie individual scenes etc. This is my blaster for my own personal display....did I say it was going in the Smithsonian?...No I did not....by the way...please don't have a meltdown when I post the photos of it painted purple.....

Yeah, this blaster is for a display, so it's only glued. For trooping I would have added a small prong out from the curve and set that into the resin.

I never liked the front scope rail mount hole or the way the rail sits in it but doesn't fill it.......so I filled the hole and bent the front of the rail by grinding a line that makes it bend without putting a big curve in the top of the bend. It's 1.6mm ally, which is solid enough, but it wouldn't want to be anything thinner. --------

Don't add a bracket to the scope rail.....that looks UGLY Look at what I have done......it is both easier and as solid! The correct placement for the counter is EVEN between the mag input and swivel pin.

Ok, ok, everyone just calm down All I'm saying is that acrylic lacquer is IMHO the best paint to use for the following reasons.... It dries fast, it dries hard, it's more usable as a paint system AND it's affordable....it LOVES practically ALL plastics because it's thinner in the paint helps the paint itself to 'melt' into the surface. ALL paint SPRAY CANS (hardware store) unless they are acrylic lacquer are 'wet' based cheap mineral turp/chemicals that don't bind well (to surface) and don't sand well. They sit on top of the surface. You can't buy acrylic lacquer at a hardware store, because it's used in the automotive industry. If you want to use it, go to an auto parts store and look in their paint section. More often than not, it's as affordable as the wet and soft alternatives. Eli

That's fine if you want to spray 8 coats across 3 different finish to get a 'real' weathered gun metal field weapon...seriously who troops with that That approach is about trying to get a real sterling look...which the movie blasters never were. THE POINT, I'm making with this post is that AcL is the BEST user friendly paint system for anyone to apply to their e11. For the new peeps who maybe confused about what paint to use...........AcL is idiot proof and affordable. Eli

Acrylic Lacquer. AcL is resin friendly as a primer and top coat, dries fast, re coat fast and LOVES resin. All other paint Can alternatives are slow drying soft turpentine based products, they suck because they always remain soft and take forever to be even close to workable. AcL is NOT for large surfaces, because it atomizes dry fast, so gloss over a flat sheet will leave (spray) banding. That's why it is better suited to blaster type small projects.

The DD e11 is a very good option. It's very accurate and reasonably priced, they run luke warm and cold in the email response department, but they have a solid rep online across various communities. IMHO, price wise and turnaround they are the best. Eli

Never considered that.....I'll have to look into that color I've scratch built a few replica props and dry brush is a solid approach, but it's trial by fire ...although it's easy to repaint and try again I've seen others use rub and buff to very good effect, but I believe it is a wax, so needs a top coat to seal it. Painting silver and then black to rub or sand back to weather is an interesting method.......

I basically have 3 choices that I'm considering when it comes to weathering my e11, which one would you recommend? 1. Primer, then silver, then black. Lite sand back the black to reveal silver in parts to create worn effect 2. Paint black and then use rub and buff silver to create weathered effect. 3. Paint black and then use silver paint to hand brush and dry brush effects. Let me know what you think. Cheers Eli

yeah, I trolled all over bunnings and could not find them anywhere still supercheap, bunnings...it's all good. drilled out the handle and put one in there.......how could I forget that??

Absolutely excellent build. It's amazing what can be done with the standard DD resin kit. The skill and attention to detail in the weathering is a make or break deal and you have nailed it big time. I've seem so many who over do the weathering and ruin the DD build, but what you've created is spot on. Share the details of your weathering so we can all learn from it. Great work.

Okay, I'll give it a go.....Annakin Warmwater it is

Perfect timing!.....that's exactly what I was thinking about doing with my dd scope. Great work!...I'll give it a try. I suppose the deeper you drill into the scope the more depth perception.....now I just have to go and do some recon where to get suitable lens here in oz.....hmmmmmm

Okay, I'm just about ready to start painting my DD e11 resin blaster. What do you recommend as a good degreaser to clean the resin prior to primer? I'm using an automotive acrylic lacquer primer and then rustoleum satin black. I've tested the lacquer on the resin and it sticks very well with no sanding, but suffered a little reaction with my dirty fingers.......so the best resin degreaser is???..... I'm thinking lcquer thinners or even methalated spirits?? Thanks in advance. RT