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I'm Batman

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Posts posted by I'm Batman

  1. Inner Barrel (Brian  :) ). Unfortunately I didn't see Aaron's sale thread with a 3x length barrel, so I went with another similar to my last build. A bit of curtain rod with aluminium discs each end to centre it in the receiver.

     

    Have also got some Matt Black paint on the whole blaster. And repainted the T-tracks. I initially painted the tracks gloss black to contrast against the matt black receiver, but I didn't like it. Too shiny. So matt it is for now. Might pick up some satin black and give that a go at some point before they get glued on.

     

    P1030569_zpsi2dicqce.jpg

     

    Cylinders - I thought long and hard about the cylinders. How to make, who's tutorial to follow, where to buy. In the end, I opted for the oversized DVH ones that came in the kit. Again, no 100% accuracy here, just something that resembles the original. Drilled some holes, 3 metal tubes (well cut down 3inch nails) and some 3mm nuts and bolts. I did obtain some originals from Tino (thank you again), but found they were just too small compared to the oversized cylinders

     

    P1030416_zpskxhaucz2.jpg

    P1030417_zpsu7jvmsgo.jpg

    P1030570_zps6zdtv4ti.jpg

    P1030571_zpsf2iwassj.jpg

     

    And another size comparison from original (Andy's) and DVH

     

    P1030573_zpspm75udqr.jpg

     

    Nearly up to final completion/installation of everything

  2. Hey Scott. Steve has a pretty fancy way of doing it in this thread:

     

    http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35356-anovos-helmet-rebuild/

     

    Otherwise, E6000 should work, provided you clamp it for long enough. My kit came with a long rectangular piece that fixed to the screws holding the ears on. 

     

    There's a pic of mine in my build thread

     

    http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26449-mtk-build-anh-stunt/page-2

    • Like 2
  3. No new parts, but I've been working on fixing the rear stock. I wanted it removable just in case I had issues with the spring, slinging bolt, handle, etc, and that's the only access. It also needs to be strong enough to act as the backstop to the spring/bolt mechanism

     

    The idea will be for a regular bolt to go through the stock and through both edges of the receiver tube.

     

    P1030540_zpsmyx9lth4.jpg

     

    Previous efforts of lining up a Tap & Die set to be perfectly inline were a bit ordinary, so I cut two holes in the pipe and epoxied nuts into the pipe. This way I could epoxy with the bolt in place ensuring they were in line

     

    P1030541_zpsouh4lbti.jpg

     

    Hole in the stock and epoxy a tube section to act as support and a stopper for the bolt so it can't be overtightened.

     

    P1030545_zpske97dybt.jpg

     

    P1030555_zps4ozu7qc7.jpg

     

    Will paint the bolt black too so it blends in more

     

    P1030557_zps47qwwf1r.jpg

     

    P1030560_zpsbsiapda1.jpg

  4. First of, welcome James! Maybe post an intro thread in the Welcome Section also.

     

    "Best Quality One?" That will be subjective, mainly based on price. I'd suggest you spend a bit of time a little bit further down the page here:

     

    http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/127-anh-blastech-e11/

     

    And have look at a few of the builds. You'll be able to see what different people do with the various kits. Be sure to check out the E-11 reference, in my signature below.

    • Like 1
  5. Ian, these T-tracks really make that blaster looking even better - like Brian said.

     

    The receiver tube has now "grown" in diameter and looks good, considering the other dimensions. Very cool job!

     

    Any plans for wires around the T-tracks like it was done on the DLT-19 ?

     

    Thanks Tino. Looking back at the blaster before I moved the bipod, it looks so much better, so thanks for the suggestion again.

     

    No, hadn't thought about wires on the tracks. To the untrained, I don't think they would mean anything anyway - even some DLT's don't have the wires, only when they get picked up for SWAT or Centurion.  I'm thinking of leaving it cleaner for now.

     

    Unfortunalty I'll have to postpone this build for a while (although not much left to do) - I need to finish my Mouse droid for a Con in 2 weeks!

  6. For those with a keen eye, you'll see the front sight guard has come off. I had previously 'fixed' the lower shape of it with greenstuff to suit the diameter of my pipe. The epoxy stayed stuck to the pipe (and the GS), but the GS separated from the resin guard. I'll have to have another look to see if I can get away without using any GS.

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