tkrestonva

Cutting the cod is completely optional. Some say it makes going #1 easier in that you don't have to suit all the way down - just drop the cod and let'er rip. Others say it doesn't really help much at all. Either way, it's a personal choice.

Where did you get the polishing supplies from? I could use a set myself.

The FX shin armor is a bit too short - either I pull them all the way down and have a lot of undersuit showing at the knees, or wear them almost riding the top of the boot as shown - minimizing the black at the knees but looking like high-water pants. My new AM kit has longer shims, and takes care of that problem quite nicely.

Finally, an action pose:

Now for the details: Backpack - Custom build. The pack is a combination of the game pack and one of the ANH sandtrooper packs. Eventually I'm going to mod it so that it looks more like one of the 5 ANH sandtrooper packs Pauldron - www.shoulderpauldrons.com Pouches - ebay BFG - Hyperfirm MG34 with added T-tracks, ammo feeder cover, and grip disc

Name: Brian 501st TK ID: 2918 FISD forum name: tkrestonva Garrison: Garrison Tyranus I was going to wait until I finished my current kit along with make a few upgrades to the pack, but since I have the photos and plan on keeping the current suit - why put it off? Here's the link to my ANH Stunt submission - the suit really hasn't changed since then. I was initially planning to do a bunch of updates, but then I changed my mind and decided to just start over with a new kit. http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=5749 Now for the new pics - Front/side/side/back:

Cool - thanks! Now for that HWT EIB submission . . .

I took about 3 inches off each side of the kidney plate. Given I have a 34" waist, it looks like the AM kit will accept up to a 40" waist without requiring shims to close the side gaps. The ab plate fit me perfectly - the left and right edges ended almost exactly on my centerline. Final photo of the night - letting the glue dry overnight. Next up: 1) sew the ESB handplates on to the gloves 2) build both ANH & ESB belts 3) start producing the straps

More done today, it's actually starting to look like a stormtrooper suit. Details - they make all the difference.

It's hard to see the color difference, although the AM seems to have a very slight gray tinge to it - an FX legacy, as it had the same gray tinge. As pointed out in the AP vs TM thread, the type of lighting involved makes a trememdous difference in color perception. Regardless, any color difference is overwhelmed by the difference in reflectivity. Once I get a chance to polish up the RT parts, I may be able to see more clearly any color differences. Assuming RT uses the same plastic he always had, and AM is using the same plastic as for FX, the difference will be extremely difficult to spot, based on my current FX armor / RT helmet trooping kit.

One more photo before I turn in - and a convenient stopping point for the night. Most of the snap plates are now in place, over 40 total snap plates for the entire suit. Still to do is (1) add snaps to the crotch area, (2) add the snap plates to the sides of the kidney and ab plates - which will be done once I determine how much from the sides I need to trim, and (3) install the snap plates inside the thighs - those will be attached when the belt & garter I'm having made arrives.

Overall, I'm very pleased with this kit. However, if there was one thing (two, actually) I would change it would be the chest and back pieces. Since there really is no way I can mod them to get the look I want, I decided to replace them with RT Mod parts. While I was at it, I decided to get a set of RT Mod shoulder straps, and a utility belt which will serve as my ANH belt. Comparison photos - RT Mod is on the top, AM is on the bottom: RT Mod stacked inside AM: The RT Mod chest plate mated with the AM ab plate, compared with all AM: If you're wondering, the bluish tinge is strictly a result of the outdoor lighting. Regardless, the photos clearly show - in addition to the marked size difference - that the RT Mod parts are not as sharp and are nowhere near as glossy as AM. Still, IMO the more accurate sizes & shapes outweighs those disadvantges. Once everything is done and fitted, I'm going to try some Novus on the RT Mod parts to get them a bit closer to AM.

Update time! Got the ammo belt and sniper plate attached:

What a impressive-looking couple!

I'm one of those guys who has an a--load of tools, but Mark's list pretty much sums up what I've used so far. The only must-have I'd add is a few dozen disc-shaped rare earth magnets for holding the long seams closed while the E6000 is curing.

Looking good. Going to DragonCon this year?

Very nice - just need to paint the boot soles white. We could use more ROTJ TKs.

While not ANH/ESB accurate, overlapping the seams shouldn't hurt your acceptance at all. Same applies for both basic 501st acceptance and EIB.

Ah, but an improvement over the Rubies helmet.

I didn't know that you could get AM replacement parts, straight from the builder no less. Definitely a useful thing to know.

My current FX kit arrived at my doorstep on December 29th, 2007, and officially entered service on February 28, 2008. I'm building this one to be ready for it's debut at C5 in mid-August. So yes, I'm past due. Once I'm done here, my FX will be converted to a TK Commander - EIB-qualified, of course. For ESB, I'll be using a TM helmet I picked up here in February, along with a set of his handplates.

Update - going down my punchlist, I got the following done: Fitted the thighs and glued the backs shut - I decided to stick with the standard overlapping seam here and glue a finishing strip on top, instead of the butt joining I did in the front: Snap plates - made about 30 total in 2 different sizes. Smaller for the arms, larger for the body. Installing the snaps - after figuring out how & where each shap within the armor part, I placed them with the clamps and used ABS cement to glue them in. Why ABS cement instead of the E6000 I used in the joints? Because I wanted the strongest hold possible, and I don't need (or want) the flex properties of E6000 with the snap plates. ABS cement will only be used on the inside parts. As noted in another thread, ABS cement works by melting the two pieces of plastic together, and it does so quickly. If you end up with any overspill, you WILL damage the finish. But since it's all internal, I don't really mind. After the glue dries I'll seal the edges with plastic weld. Letting the glue cure overnight, more work tomorrow.

Who has approval authority for HWTs? Is it the LMO, or has it been delegated to the GMLs? I'm trying to get myself official for HWT, and while I plan on submitting for EIB with my new build - to be completed in about a month or so, I figure I can at least get basic approval with my current build.

Light to medium "wear & tear" scuffing should be allowed, as many of us strive for the same look with our "clean" TKs. Even "battle damage" weathering a la the TKC should be acceptable. However, the language should be crafted such that it is clear that sandtrooper-type weathering is not allowed.