Bulldog44

Thanks Paul. I am going to use the hooks w/ elastic for closing up the back of the shins. My boots are a bit wide at the top and I think I will try the stirrup route you recommended. Appreciate the advice on the ankle fit. I was starting to doubt a snug fit was possible.

I am now trying to assemble the shins and trim them to size. When positioning the shins, how should they fit?do they need to be loose enough to drop to the lowest point to around your ankles? When I try fitting them with boots on the shins sit higher. If I don't trim them enough the shins look massive around the ankles. I was hoping to keep a more slimmer fitted look like TKs in ANH have. Any advice?

Thanks Shawn & Derek for the advice. I am still struggling to get my armor together but these side projects are too much fun to ignore. I will try both wiring then since I already bought some to test with. Derek, my brother also recommended solid wiring for the same reason. I will see how much fiddling is necessary to install my setup and judge how durable it is. Shawn, your new kit is really nice and that is the same hearing kit I have been testing with; very loud and clear quality. Once I get my prototype up and going, I will start a new topic hopefully soon.

Finally trimmed the bicep parts to size. Next step is to glue the cover strips on this week. On the left bicep I think I trimmed it too much and will probably need to add the extra scrap piece in between the gap before gluing the cover strip on to give a bit more breathing room. As I mentioned in my previous post, my arms are rather thin and I had to trim off quite a bit to get them to a comfortable fit. But for the left one, I got over confident I guess. Steve,sorry I didn't follow your advice well enough. (You can see the scrap strip in place between the front and back bicep parts. Hope the cover strip hides this a bit.)

Looks great Maxim. Great work.

Thanks for the tip Locitus! Bookmarked. Karin, very kind of you to do that but when I get around to ordering some hand guards I will add the extra on for you!

Thanks guys. I think I get it now regarding the fee. I will add the extra 4% fee on top of the cost and send as goods from now on. Thanks Vern, I read that part but just wanted to make sure since the option is no longer listed as gift when I send money via paypal. I feel quite silly now knowing the solution. I just kept thinking you had to straight up put the price in and choose either payment method, absorbing the fee or passing it on to the seller as Paypal states. Soren, hoping my stuff gets sent someday but I guess it is a lesson learned if not. Appreciate everyone's advice!

Is there a recommended guideline to follow when using Paypal to pay for goods? When making a Paypal payment the buyer must choose to send the money for goods/ services or send it as a family/ friend. If you send the money choosing goods/services the seller must absorb the additional charges from Paypal and the buyer absorbs the fee if sending as a family/friend. It gets confusing as to which way is preferred to send the payment. Is there a guideline we should follow regarding this? So far all of my transactions on the FISD have been smooth but I have an issue at present on the MEPD with a seller not responding or sending the product I paid for. I chose the family/friend method and paid the additional fee thinking it was a kind gesture not to make the seller pay. Unfortunately if you send money this way, there is no way to file a claim as far as I know. If the seller pays the fee then there is some protection for both parties from what I have heard and read. Please correct me if I am wrong about this. I just want to know if there can be some guideline to follow for the buyer and seller using Paypal. Should the seller state in their sales thread or through PM which way to send the money? (I had a good experience with a purchase from a MEPD member who sent an invoice through Paypal and this was by far the easiest and clearest way. Not sure how this is done but thought that might add to the topic for future thought. )

Thanks again. I will give a shot tonight and see how far I get. I am dreading the leg parts but my I need to move on this project as I am hitting the one year mark since receiving it.

Thanks Steve for the advice. I am still in the process of fitting and trimming these parts and I will ask for someone to help me with the final fit. I did do some trimming to get the biceps to meet up more equally and might have taken more off on one half than the other but hoping I can adjust that with the other side. From the rough fitting I have done on the arms I am still unsure how snug the parts should be. I have skinny arms and this makes me feel like maybe I will be sizing these too tight. I don't think I will be hitting the gym anytime soon but should I leave plenty of room ?

Thanks Manuel. I am not even close to starting a project like this but thought I need to do my homework once I do. I guess 12 volts means larger battery so that would cause spacing problems.

Just curious, can you use the MP3 player module I linked below for this setup? Apologies if I am asking a ridiculous question, I know almost nothing about how all the components need to be compatible. I happened to come across the slim type version of an mP3 module and thought that might help reduce space issues. http://www.mdfly.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=83

Is there a recommended wire gauge used for mini condenser microphones or a special type of wire used only for these mics? I have some very thin wiring I picked up from the hobby store and not sure if it is what I need to be using. Better to use solid core copper wires or braided copper wires? If anyone has some expert advice on microphone wiring, please let me know. Here are the specs of the wiring I am using: 工作・ホビー用10芯コード赤/ç·‘ 0.12mmφ×10芯×å„5m

Back at it again but need some advice. Ready to start the right arm. The forearm and bicep are both offset and I am not sure how to tackle these parts. Please have a look and let me know if I did not match theses correctly On the image sheet I marked 1 and 2 for where I am planning to trim. I measured 7-8mm from the molded edge on each piece. If I am going about this all the wrong way, please drop me some instructions. The return edges on the tops of both parts still need some more trimming and sanding, the bottom return edges by the wrist have been removed. The biceps have a weird line to follow along the bottom rim. Not sure how to get the 2 edges to line up and create a smooth bottom return edge & line. Look forward to hearing any advice before I move ahead.

Also look for Charlie (aka- crashmann )on the MEPD site. His radio face plate is awesome. Very crisp lines and matches the original details seen on the few existing photos available of the Sonix Victory '75. I have 2 of his radio kits but not yet assembled. I also have Dirtyboy's radio face plate which is also great too. Both Crashmann's & Dirtyboy's radio face plates are different in size, Dirtyboy's radio being slightly larger. I didn't buy the whole kit from Dirtyboy so I need to make my own box to fit the face plate. Trooperbay also offers a radio kit too if you go to his site.http://trooperbay.com/sandtrooper-radio-kit/. You will need to source elsewhere for the large dial and smaller knobs, switches, etc. if you wish to add those. Hope this helps in your search.

Thanks, I was wondering what to do about the mic placement. Great tip!

Looks Fantastic! Great work on your armor. Hope to get back to my RS build soon, your build has motivated me to get started again.

Thanks! Can't wait to try it out when I get my kit together.

Which size E-z coil did you buy to fit the tube? Gonna head over to pep boys tomorrow to get one!

Thanks Reza & Mathias for confirming the rivets for me. Reza, that would be great if you could measure the snap size for me.

Project on a long break . Now back in the US & sourcing some parts & bits that I will need to start up again when I get back to Japan. Some RS kits I have seen came with the snaps already installed on the ab piece but mine did not. These snaps were not included and was wondering if anyone knows the exact size snaps to install for this piece, I know the 2 lower snaps are for the belt and will have to match the ones already sewn into my belt. Basically I have half the snap ends on the belt but the other male sides missing. Also , are the split rivets used for the crotch area the same as the split rivets used on the ab piece?

No problem. Icant find slotted screw heads in Japan at the hardware stores and just back in the US for a few weeks. Hoping to locate some of those small hard to find detailing parts.

Looks really nice. Like how you made & added on your own parts to mag clip. What size screw head did you use on the counter?

Looks fantastic Michael. I also learned a lot watching your progress.

An extremely kind deed. Great work!