Jump to content

bigkilo

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
  • Content Count

    52
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About bigkilo

  • Rank
    Sergeant

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Iowa

Standard Info

  • Name
    jared
  • 501st ID
    42020
  • 501st Unit
    Central Garrison

Recent Profile Visitors

186 profile views
  1. Great to see a night owl like myself:) Im up late building R2 - why are YOU up so late?. Reserve a spot for me, please - the first 3 are taken, I see - can I get #4?
  2. This is certainly an old thread, but having built 6 blasters with the polycarb tubing listed here, I can give the following feedback : 1) the polycarb has a tendency to melt more than resin or PVC, so take your time with the cuts if using a dremel - if you go too fast a melted ball of polycarb will obscure your cut lines - start just a little at a time until you learn just how fast you can go. 2) ive found that polycarb bonds only moderately to weakly to other plastics. Usually the weakest bond is between the paint and the polycarb, so if you assemble it THEN paint, it will be a bit (~20%) stronger. I've actually resorted to screwing my cast pieces to the polycarb tube and not rely on the bond strength of JB weld or CA glue, but I like my guns to be able to take at least a 4 foot drop without exploding (glue still has to be used for the ejection port and gas port deflectors, however, as these walls are too thin to be screwed on). 3) Drilling polycarb is also a bit more tedious, a step bit is suggested, but I've drilled it with a standard bit as well and have been able to keep a pretty good alignment for the most part. If anyone has found a better adhesive, that would be awesome, and ease share! If I could glue reliably to the poly, then my kits could have a working trigger, remove able magazine, removable rear cap, AND be cockable! Just a heads up - may wanna teamm up on the poly tubing, though, because its only sold in 8 foot sections (5 blaster lengths), and with shipping it will be around $40, but two sections (10 blasters) will be $60, 4 pieces (20 blasters) would be $100 - you get the idea. Because of the shipping and minimum length, it gets a bit spendy for a single build. Just my gained knowledge from my recent projects:)
  3. Just out of curiosity, what basis did you use for the overall size? The dimensions look very good, but how did you determine the overall size to make it? Maybe I am incorrect (and I probably am:)) but the ANOVOS seems to be a touch big -? Like maybe 5% oversized? It could also be the troopers I have seen wearing it compared to the trailer actors (who may be taller than the OT 5'10" actors). Just curious if this is about ANOVOS size or if any info was gleamed at Cvii that would let us know just what the proper size is?
  4. Jim - I wasnt trying to offend you or anyone else, and intentionally didnt mention any names to avoid doing that. My statement was not a comment on you and your wife's build, but just a question about the armor in general, Your armor is one of the better that I have seen (which is only a few), but they all seem a litle out of proportion to me. The butt is too flat, the chest is too small in diameter (or the abs are too large in diameter), and the shoulder bells seem undersized to me. It also seems to be riddled with clone-trooper-ish comfort and movement issues. I wasnt sure If this was a build issue or the way the armor is molded. I was attempting to get feedback on the accuracy of the ANOVOS and was not trying to comment on your build. So, since this has become a public issue: you have my public apology. You did a nice build, I'm just not sure how accurate it is. But that ultimately falls on ANOVOS and not you. Admittedly, my statement about not wearing it even if I was paid to was a bit harsh, but I'm just not feeling the armor as I have seen anyone wear it yet (but I'm also not into anyone in clone armor either, so some of it is just my OT ways). I really dont wanna derail this thread, so any further comments can be directed to me via PM. thanks
  5. Awesome! Looking forward to getting one! Take my money now! Take it!
  6. That side looks spot on - as foes the front view in the first post, but the oblique view seems a little off to me - seems a bit too concave in the face and a bit too bulging in the eyes:/ anyone else think so?
  7. Sooo, the anovos comes as a kit then? I saw one of the new suits at a troop on may 4th and was less than impressed - terrible shape and fit (almost as bad as my avatar pic;) the butt was flat and wide and the thickness of the waist and thighs was off balance with the top portion, it just didn't look very masculine at all. If it is an unfinished kit, that would actually be a good thing, I think - because if they all look like the one I saw this weekend, you couldn't pay me to wear it.
  8. Awesome! Appreciate all the work gio! Can you add me to the sales list so that I am #1 for your boots? . Size 12 for me.
  9. Will you announce the sale on here or start a new thread in the for sale section?
  10. I'm in to help get this started - will you announce sales/kick start here or on a sales thread?
  11. Now you tell me:). You are just the man with the solution, aren't you Vince? Well, I am going ahead and finishing this build, but I am certainly open to solicitation regarding an already completed mold. But latex? Does that even work? I'm using smooth on mold star silicone. Have done the whole GE silicone tube thing with mediocre results, and have done a couple urethane castings for cement - never used latex. Wouldn't that get shredded after 1-2 pulls?
  12. So - I'm in the process of molding my e11 to offer kits. Bought an m38 scope to mold, but m19s are a bit harder to come by (and certainly more $$), so I thought I would make my own to mold and include as an option in my kits. Its basically a PVC build, I started with a 3/4 in PVC coupler cut down to 1.25" long, and cut 2 very small sections of 3/4" PVC to sandwich the "lens" into place. One of these sections I dremeled the interior to make a thinner ring and added cuts at 3 and 9 o'clock. The "lens" was made from a small segment of a pingpong ball I discovered in my garage. For the objective lens side, I also cut a 3/8 inch long of 1.5" PVC and sanded the exterior to thin it out. This was to become the cap portion of the objective lens. The taper was made with a small section of funnel I had laying around, which I then connected to a 3/4" PVC cap that I had belt sanded to be flat on the top and smooth on the sides. The front end parts: Broken down - the 3/4 inch coupler with a section of 3/4" PVC within: Then the pingpong segment and thinned out 3/4" PVC ring next: And the thinned out 1.25" pvc placed around the exterior of the front ( this had to be cut with some removed so that it sit flush with the 3/4" coupler): Then I glued the objective lens assembly to the funnel and then to the 3/4" PVC cap, which was shortened to ~3/4", then I cutout two slightly smaller circles from some scrap abs sheets to attach to the ocular end: Then I used scrap copper pipe and copper couplers to make the side tube and ocular lens housing (I believed this was 3/8" copper tubing). Then I dremeled out the funnel area to attach the side tube and glued it in place Next was to bondo the whole thing to blend and smooth the body First pass: Second pass: Wood and abs cut and stacked and glued to make the two bottom feet *forgot to take a picture of this* Added three "screws" to the objective lens end (actually, I drilled holes, filled em with bon do, and used a screwdriver to imprint a flathead screwdriver slot into the bon do - looks convincing enough in person And painted it up - ready to mold! I weathered it a bit to have some pitting, scratches, and other imperfections so it matches the rest of my gun. I really want these to come out of the mold "pre-weathered" Its not a 100% match, but it is close enough to convince most, I would say. Some of the incorrectness I kept on purpose as kind of a signature:) Final cost was almost free, since I used mostly scraps, but I imagine it could be done for under $10
  13. Here is a quick question regarding placement - I have a contractor background so say in "10mm from the edge" doesn't tell me the whole picture - are the rivets placed 10mm from the edge on center ( meaning is it the center of the rivet that is 10mm from the edge)? Or is the edge of the rivet 10mm from the edge ( meaning the center of the rivet would be 14mm from the edge for a 8mm diameter rivet)? I have up to now just chosen to split this difference, but seeing as I am now helping some others build their armor, I would like to be spot-on Thank you:)
  14. I'm pretty sure the new troopers are 100% injection molded. Maybe we can convince lucasfilms to give us their 3d designs or make us a copy of their molds ( in an effort to better propagate the star wars brand via accurate costumes:) I would certainly take one of these helmets when they are done, and I think CNC machined is the way to go for now I couldn't wait, so I got a head start with a hand sculpted version;)
  15. Just weighed it on my medical scale - 7.6 lbs, with sling attached
×
×
  • Create New...