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Captain Radu

Member
  • Posts

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About Captain Radu

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    radugravenimages@yahoo.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Pittsburgh Pa

Standard Info

  • Name
    Radu Plucinsky
  • 501st Unit
    Carida
  1. Thank you very much. I wanted to get enough to do a few helmets. How many meters do think I would need to do 5 of each?
  2. I am looking for it myself in the US. I will order here as well. Is there any one specific for helmet brow and neck trim for ANH TK?
  3. I am not sure there is anything you can do. I have never seen a Hyperfirm weapon, but I assume that it's cast in some sort of Urethane or Silicone Rubber and backfilled with a flexible foam. Or they use a self skinning flexfoam. Not sure if incerting anything is possible. It could damage it.
  4. I am on a waiting list for an AM suit, The armor maker is making the changes from what I understand. To me it pretty simple to do
  5. Hey Tony, I am an approved Imperial Officer and I am also working on my TK as well. I entered my ID and was able to access everything
  6. I have put together a few helmets now, The MRC looks like a lot of work to make it approved. The best kit I have seen in The TMC. Everything lines up and comes with all the hardware needed. The next best is the MTK, it's just as good but you have to have a little knowledge on how to line everything up. We have Tk's with both in our garrison and you can't tell them apart unless you know what to look for.
  7. I got mine from Fenix props, They have different sizes for different helmets. I like it, you can put it in with velcro and remove it to wash it -----------
  8. I would buy directly from Smooth-on http://www.smooth-on.com/Silicone-Rubber-an/c2/index.html That tutorial is great, wow they used my lego idea. It was about 12 years ago that I came up with that. They thought I was crazy. I would recommend a platinum silicone like the Mold Star 30. I use Smooth Sil 920, but I but my molds in a pressure pot to cure. I recommend mold star because it is really good rubber and you do not need to put it under pressure. It is also a 1:1 mix by volume. Some silcones are a 1:10 by weight and you need a gram scale. Here are some tutorials on You Tube. http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=smooth-on+one+part+mold&oq=smooth-on+one+part+mold&gs_l=youtube.3...375260.388840.0.389103.29.27.1.0.0.0.579.4289.9j11j6j5-1.27.0...0.0...1ac.1.EZAOIyjxhPk Some are smooth-on endorsed. The mold you want to do is simple. For some reasons I am not getting notifications on this thread. I will try to follow it. I you have any questions message me. Smooth-on tech support is also great. I worked for them 12 years ago. I still have friends there. Where are you from? I am in Pittsburgh. I am interested in a set and could cast them for you. I am doing a scratch build and a rebuild of a horrible cushman cast. The hand grips are horrible. Let me know Radu
  9. Oh, the other thing I would recommend. If you do not have a wood shop to build your mold boxes, I have used Legos. You can get real nice and tight with them. When I was at smooth-on 12 years ago, I think they thought I was crazy, but it took off. You need a quick mold and don't have a wood shop, it works. I make mine out of resin coated melamine now, but when I didn't have a wood shop I used legos and hot glued the edges.
  10. Hey Robert, I am a professional mold maker. I do mostly industrial molds, but have been casting sculptures for over twenty years. I highly recommend Smooth-On for you supplies. I work with many others, but they are great with customer service and their web tutorials are the best. The big question in what material to buy is, how many cast are you planning to make. Tin cured or Platnum cured. I cast in Platnum Silicone and do it in a pressure pot, so there is no air bubbles in the rubber. They also make a prototype rubber that is a one and done type of rubber. The type of mold you are doing is the most easiest. It is a one part open face. All you have to do is build a box around it, at least 1/4 inch thick. Pressurizing gives you the best detail in the rubber. If you don't have a pressure pot, you can pour it in. You need a small steady stream and pour about 2 feet above the mold. A small stream will give you less chance of air bubbles. Pour in one spot and let it fill in. Make sure that your surface is level. I recommend smooth cast 320 for the resin and you can just paint the casts. You can get brown pigments to tint the resin, then you would want smooth cast 325. I am new to the forums, but have been doing this for years. If you have any questions feel free to message me
  11. As a make-up artist, I am friends with a lot of drag queens. I would do a search for drag heels. I never have walked in them, but would recommend some walking around in them first.
  12. Nice, I will follow this. It is a shame you don't live closer. I am Zombie capitol of the world, Pittsburgh. My profile pic is with some zombies I sculpted. If you have any questions about make-up feel free to ask me. I just joined this forum recently and building my TK
  13. If you are over 6 ft tall the only thing that will fit you is an old FX, or an AM. I have heard the RT-Mod will fit as well but there is a waiting list. My big question is, why do you want to be a death trooper? Let me say that this is coming from a guy who sculpts zombies for a living. I live in Pittsburgh, about 3 blocks from Tom Savini and have as many zombie appliances that you would ever want. If you are joining the 501st, it is not a kid friendly costume. You would only want to wear this at conventions. I have seen kids cry and scream just seeing a stormtrooper let alone.
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