Geaux Saints

Thanks. So, you think I can go ahead a put on the joining straps?

Here are my forearms and biceps taped up and ready for input on whether or not they are ready for joining straps. Left side Right side Both wrist openings are just big enough to slide my hands through. Input?

My side rivets.

I was thinking that. Thanks.

I was referring to the ab plate side snap that snaps to the kidney. Do I glue the elastic in a neutral position (just where it closes the side without any tension) or do I glue it where the snap will have some tension when I pull it over to snap on the kidney?

I placed a screwdriver sideways to start the split going outwards. Once the rivet split some, I used the squared "neck" of the screwdriver to spread it some more. Once they were out enough, I just hammered them flat.

Question...are the ab side snap and crotch snap glued in a neutral position or with some tension?

I must say that last night I became COMPLETELY frustrated that I had to put the build up and walk away for the evening. Riveting the side straps and trimming the ears for my helmet ended up being A LOT harder than I anticipated. I'm not happy with the ears, but they will have to do for now since I'm on a time frame. I hate getting so frustrated with something that I was so excited in getting and working on. Not to mention communication with Doopydoo has completely ceased with regard to them send my missing parts for my E-11. I guess I'll be using a Hasbro until something gets resolved if it ever does. Deep breath....reload....prepare for a new day.

Great job!

I've trimmed up the forearms and biceps and taped them up for fitting before gluing the joining strips. I'll post pics later for opinions. What are the instructions/pointers with regard to trimming/sizing the thighs and shins?

For this build thread....can you remind me of the different widths for the joining strips for the arms, forearms, legs, and shins. Thanks.

How's this?

Thanks. That's what I thought.

If the joining strips are the same length as the shortest side, would there be any chance that some of the joining edge on the long side would be exposed? Also, I've seen how people attach the shoulder bell to the biceps, then the biceps to the forearm. I don't see that on a TM build. Do the bell and biceps connect or is it just the bell cross strap that holds the biceps in place?

Also, is the biceps suppose to be flush on top or bottom, like I have done?

I decided to tape up my forearms and biceps. The forearm digs into the bend of my arm when I bend my arm. The forearm also digs into my wrist when I bend my arm.. The corner of the biceps pokes me in my armpit when I reach up to touch my head. Suggestions on how to proceed? The pieces are taped edge to edge with no current overlap. Here are the pics... Looking from behind the bicep Looking from behind the forearm

OK...I decided to install the brackets on my armor last night (original strapping). I'll admit it....I'm kinda scared to work on the arms and legs for some reason, so I decided to stay productive with the brackets. Here are the measurements that Paul gave me from his suit. Each measurement is from the outside inwards to the first hole of the bracket. Chest - 25mm Abdomen - 25mm Back - 40mm Butt - 40mm Kidney bottom - 40mm / top 120mm He also said when you do the kidney, it is best to do the back and butt plates first then mark the middle of each piece and line them up so you get the brackets to line up properly. All the middle brackets are just centered between the outer brackets and they don't have to be exactly centered. Everything on the original armor is wonky or uneven. First I measured from the outside of the armor in and made a mark. I used a 1/8" drill bit for the screw holes. I placed the first screw in the bracket snug. (I faced the bracket screw holes toward the wearer with the bracket on the armor side. If that is incorrect, Paul please let me know. That's how they looked in several pictures I viewed). I then lined up the bracket, and marked the other hole. I then swung out the bracket to drill the hole. After placing the second screw and bolt, I tightened both bolts fairly snug. I did this for all the brackets. Here are the results...

Without the end caps, I can see how the tube itself has the illusion that it may be too long, but I assure it looks right. Here's the measurement:

I really didn't have any intention to remove the end caps for storage or anything. I was thinking before I got my kit I would have to glue the end caps on, but Paul's design allows a very snug fit that does not require glue. Very nice!

Thanks!

I just measured mine (that sounds kinda bad ), and it measures just over 7 1/2" long. That would be kinda cool to be able to use it as storage, but I think the stuff shaking around inside might be annoying to me. I'll still consider it, though.

The TD (as you can see from the picture) seems visually to be right on. I read somewhere else it should be 7 1/2" I think, but I didn't measure it. I am fully confident, through Paul's years of research and work, that he is spot on with his TD. I did do some minor trimming to one end of the grey tube so that it would sit a little more flush inside the end cap, but nothing major.

It definitely worked. The end cap went on rather effortlessly. I can imagine how big a pain it would have been without the outlet. The plate covers the hole so no worries about how big it is.

Well, I've been interrupted today, and haven't made much progress, but I did get my thermal detonator assembled. Paul's TM TD has end caps that do not need gluing as they have a very snug fit when you slide them on. I went ahead and slid one end cap on. Afterwards I placed the clip up against the end cap and drilled the holes for it. Paul suggests a hole be drilled (in the area where the detonator plate will go) so that when you put the other end cap on you will avoid an airlock making it difficult to place the end cap. I placed the plate across the top of the first bracket and made a mark for the other bracket. I then took a piece of cardboard and stuck it into the other end cap and marked the depth. I then transferred that from the end to mark how far the end cap would be, so I could place the other bracket. I marked the top hole of the other bracket and placed a screw in it. That way I could press the bracket flat and drill the other hole so the bracket will lie flush. After making sure there was no drilling debris inside the detonator tube (thanks, Paul), I placed the other end cap and glued the plate flush with the top of the brackets and voila.

Nice work! Congratulations, Phil, from across the pond!