TK Keith
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Posts posted by TK Keith
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Does anyone add a snap between the belt and ab on the side to help keep the belt from sagging under the weight of the holster? I currently have 2 snaps connecting the belt to the ab center-right and center-left, but was wondering if I should add a third on the left side somewhere.
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I ended up using 3 rivets to arrach the plastic ammo be;t to the canvas one to keep those pieces laying nice and flat together. Then I used two snaps to connect it to the ab. On my first try the belt was a little below the box on the ab with the five buttons, so I used pliers to carefully take the snaps out of the belt and placed them 1/4 inch higher. Much better!
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I really like E6000 - strong and flexible. The flexible part is key.
the only problem with it is the 24hr cure period.
plastic weld does indeed melt plastic.
I use a combination of E6000 and CA glue. The CA glue holds edges together and prevents moving whilst the E6000 cures and gives it the eventual strength.
I really like using E6000 except for the long cure period. I've had a few instances where I needed to remove a cover strip or black elastic, which the E6000 allows.
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Cool idea! I like to wear my 501st cap when I'm out and about, but having a beret could be a lot of fun too. My students would get a kick out of it.
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Glad to have another Californian on board!
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I recently had a similar problem with my ATA detonator and metal clips. The white button plate on the detonator would have been pointing too far up. I ended up trimming a bit off the end of the metal clips so that the white button plate would be able to face more outwards.
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I also like the look of the "clean" E11, but I think that the troopers who are striving for a high level of accuracy should be more uniform in their appearance so I support the extra blaster requirements for EIB.
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Confusing is an understatement, never the less this is an awesome helmet. Really dig the weathering. How many helmets are you up too?
I agree-- the weathering looks awesome and realistic!
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The tutorials on FISD are super-helpful. You may also want to check out goldengategarrison.com, the home page of the GGG. I think you'll be in that garrison since you are in San Jose, and maybe some members can help with your build if you need it!
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Don't get discouraged by the fixes you need-- keep working at it and you'll be a member soon!
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I used paint from trooperbay- they sell a pack of four different colors. The paint went on easily and looks great!
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You can get away with doing that, if you like. Same thing, tbh. Either way they get covered up by the belt. Just remember to make sure you use some strong adhesive, as the ab snaps really need to be secure or they WILL come off.
Ok, thanks for the advice! I think I am going to try avoiding the snap plates. i'll just go slow and measure everything carefully!
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Man, some of these look amazing. I wish I had found this forum earlier
Anyway, I've posted this video in a brand new thread, but here's what I've done.
Wow- great job!!! That's definitely beyond my skill level.
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Great question! I have read a ton of the EU books but never really thought about the style armor the stormtroopers wore.
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I have an ATA helmet and use a mic on informal troops. I am thinking about adding fans, but dont know about putting them by my mouth or ears. Has anyone experimented with these two placements?
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I have my fans set right under the screw for the ears, this placement cools and keeps the lens with no mositure.
That's a good idea. I will have to try that out when I get my fans!
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Wow, detailed list! I ended up going through at least 3 things of E6000 on my ATA build, so I suggest you stock up on that!
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My head is a bit larger, but I like your work. Nice job!
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I use screw posts. they look like rivets.
I like the idea of screw posts. What size did you use?
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If you want accuracy you should use 8 mm cap rivets. Failing that, next best is 8 mm split rivets or other kind of solid head rivet. Failing that, pop rivets. Any solid head rivet is acceptable for centurion. For EIB anything mentioned goes.
Sadly my local hardware store has a limited variety of rivets- mainly 1/8 inch (3mm) and 3/16 inch (5mm). Would a chicago screw be better than an incorrect rivet size?
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If you want accuracy you should use 8 mm cap rivets. Failing that, next best is 8 mm split rivets or other kind of solid head rivet. Failing that, pop rivets. Any solid head rivet is acceptable for centurion. For EIB anything mentioned goes.
Thanks- I will take these notes with me to Home Depot today!
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On 9/9/2011 at 11:51 AM, bobojuice said:
Here's the detail on the ab plate with the snaps.
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I notice bobojuice attached his snaps directly through the ab armor without using a snap plate. I am a bit nervous about drilling through my armor, although I know it will be covered by the belt. Has anyone had success using snap plates and gluing those onto the ab? Any problems with that approach?
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Do people suggest putting the snap directly through the armor, or making a snap plate and gluing that on?
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I am going for EIB, so any rivet advice would be cool. I am going to glue my sniper knee plate as suggested in other threads, but want to know if they look for a specific rivet size on the thigh ammo box for EIB?
POLL: What glue have you tried, what actually works
in Assembly, Mods, and Painting
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Has anyone had the E6000 melt their armor? If so, any details would be nice (how long it took to melt, what happened, etc.)