DarSec

TK71463 requesting access https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=24814

So first pass at approval was that the armor is great but, as expected, the ears are too thick. I'll post before and after when I get a chance.

I just scored a jar of white screen print paint (Speedball brand) at Michael's craft store. 8 bucks but I had a 50% off coupon so only $4!!! This stuff is awesome! I'm using them on Karin's awesome handguards. Goes on thick, so only a little is needed. Three coats and it's in the oven for a bit. No cracks, super flexible, awesome white, this jar will paint a hundred pairs. Nice tip!!!

Has anyone used the throat mic below? I can't seem to get any sound out of it. It has a 3.5 insert with three black rings. Is this the problem? I can tap on one side and get a little sound but nothing no matter where I put the mic on my throat. The headset that came with the Aker has only one black ring, as does the connecting cable. Who uses what throat mic with the Aker and icomm?<br><br><br><br><br> Braudel® 3.5mm Jack Plug Cool Tactical Military Army Outdoor Sports Wired Throat Vocal Viberate Mic Microphone Anti-noise Tactical Neckband Vocal Hands-free In-ear Military Headset / Headphones / Earphones for Cellphone, Gaming, Pc Computers, Creative Christmas Gift

Totally got it working! This thing is awesome! Took it outside in the wind and it was crazy loud. Maybe with the brow trim it'll muffle it a bit Thanx all for the help.

Being a super green novice at circuit boards, to re check them I make sure I have enough solder but not too much, make sure nothing's touching? I'm thinking of taking it all apart, cleaning all solder off and starting over. Any tips on either plan?

I just got it all soldered and it doesn't work. Not even the LED. I followed the instructions exactly and nothing. Gonna take it back to radio shack and see if they can trouble shoot it or replace it.

I just bought this from Radio Shack. It is a Radio Shack brand now and it is called, "BUILD IT-Super Stereo Ear" cat # 2770355. The guy looked up the orig number from the first post and said it had been replaced with this. Doesn't look too hard. My request is that someone take pics or draw all wiring connections from mics to board, and from board to earphones/ear buds, whatever you use. I love all the tutorials but I am a visual person and I don't want to mess this up. First bucket and all. Thanks in advance.

I have completed my TM Hero helmet and ATA armor that I have completed according to Hero Centurion build guidelines. I am excited to get this application process underway. I have contacted my Garrison liaison and will be completing my application to the 501st soon. As soon as I have a TK number, I am ready to send photos for Centurion status consideration. I am wondering, though, do I have to go through EIB status first, or can I go straight to Centurion? I don't want to be assumptive or buck the system, I just want to know what is customary and allowable. Thanks in advance. Another thing, what exactly are the requirements for the black screws on the detonator? I have seen some that have been asked to replace their rounded ones with flat ones, and I have seen several with more rounded ones pass with flying colors. Just wanting to get it right the first time.

Ok thanks! I'll try to get something up this weekend. Thanks for the reply.

Having trouble figuring out which side is up with ATA kidney plate. I've read return edge, no return edge. I've read smooth curve return is up and flatter return edge is down, and vice versa. Ready to cut notches but don't feel like ordering another if I mess it up. Thanx in advance.

awesome thanks. I'll stick with the 2".

I see in the RS measurements and in the proper elastic tutorial that the white shoulder elastic going from front to back is 45-47mm, which is about 1 3/4 in. I have found 2in, which seems a little big, pretty much the width of the shoulder strap armor, and 1 1/2 in, which seems maybe not quite wide enough. What is everyone using?

This is phenomenal. This was what I needed to get back into my own build. I am at the strapping and snapping phase. Having trouble engaging these past few months. Got my DD kit with mod pack and that's at a standstill as well. Hope to start posting critique pics soon and get back in the saddle. Thanks for an awesome build.

I'll totally be watching this. I was at out the hardware store this very evening earlier with my phone out looking at pictures trying to find the exact thing. Good luck!!!

thanks everyone, esp the tip about building the ridges from below. I was thinking I was going to have to do that. I should be able to continue from here. Thanks again. Just didn't want the shoulder straps to affect EIB or Centurion status if I go that route.

My ATA is so close to done, but so much still to do. I have looked up (exhaustively) the correct way to attach shoulder pieces to chest piece. It looks like I need to attach them with 5-6 ridges on the chest piece. On the ATA chest piece there is little room before it starts to dip due to the shape of the chest piece. How do all you ATA builders attach these? Pics below if they come out. Thanks in advance.

Mind BLOWN!! I was actually thinking of something similar by putting the brackets on for effect but doing the snaps with the elastic going through the brackets. Look of brackets it ease of snaps. This is going to be awesome!!!

Having a conversation with a member about the pros and cons of snaps vs brackets. Thought I'd move it here. What are your thoughts? It seems that thicker ABS needs reinforcement for brackets, and brackets are totally canon. Snaps, however, make for easy break down of the torso for transport and storage. Anyone have recommendations or stories?

Ok. I think I'm leaning back to brackets. The thing I have always wondered about is whether the plastic around snaps starts to wear, discolor, weaken, fade, look dull from snapping and unsnapping multiple times. Still on the fence. I love the hard core canon authenticity of brackets but I also like the ease of breaking down the torso. Decisions decisions.

So the consensus is that thinner, more flexible abs is ok for brackets and elastic loops, but thicker armor needs snaps? Mine is ATA and it's somewhat flexible bit I think it's 2mm. Should I be thinking snaps? I like the reinforced option. Now I'm confused. I really like the bracket and loop idea like TM did his Hero. It's not too late to change my mind.

As for your question a bit back about the "fake" bracket mock up. That's really a cool idea. I was told earlier that what is underneath isn't important as long as you have the screen accurate look on the outside. I am really struggling with the whole bracket idea. I'm ready to order my complete strapping kit from TM and do it up inside and out in true Hero fashion. I look at the snaps and they do look tempting. I didn't really see any responses to this question, but I was truly considering it. Hats off for creativity.

this build is awesome. I am pretty far along in my ATA build. Arms, legs done, starting on chest and back. Ordering my strapping kit and getting started. Your build is awesome and inspiring. Mine is a first time build as well, and I hope to start a pic build thread soon. I've got some hints and tips from yours. Thanks for posting.

OK! I'm totally sold. Please PM me Mr. TM with ordering info for the strapping kit and the rubber gloves with latex guards. Are they painted white already?? Thanks in advance. Ready to get this project done. Life has been crazy lately. My wife passed 7 weeks ago and I've been slow to get back in the swing of things. thanks in advance.

Mr. TM, I would love to know what exactly is included in your strapping kit. Is it all elastics, snaps, rivets, brackets and all or just the brackets, bolts and nuts? I tried to PM but it failed. It may help to have a list of exactly what is included in everything you sell. Thanks in advance.