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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/21/2026 in Posts

  1. This is very good information to know, for any scenario.
    1 point
  2. The server can only hold a small amount of images due to the sheer voloume of members. You need to use a share service like IMGUR or Flicker, to be able to share unlimited images.
    1 point
  3. You don't have to be trooping Florida in peak humidity to fall foul of dehydration. I've seen more than one trooper over do it in conventions halls in London and need to helped out of armour.
    1 point
  4. This looks like great work (without cracking out the reference anyway). Blender has always been a black art to me, I've had a couple of goes but it just doesn't compute. To think you got here from nothing in around a month is awesome. I've made a few bits over the years, but always using CAD (fusion mainly). I've released those for free mostly as it's small bits and bobs. People will generally pay a fair fee, some sets have seemed "optimistically" priced but what do I know, people clearly pay for them. I have a couple of other bits I am sat on as I want to make sure I am happy with them on a completed costume first. Paid, free, other, there's a gap atm. Non-Saga armour just isn't really available. Stuff is slowly starting to appear, but rogue one came out 10 years ago now! It's now abundantly clear that this is the styling for anything made that needs to feature stormtroopers going forward. Heck they even used them in TROS https://propstoreauction.com/lot-details/index/catalog/508/lot/197721
    1 point
  5. This is the (no pun intended) million-dollar question. Truthfully, I don’t fully know yet. Right now, the main goal is simply to finish a set of files that I’m personally happy with. I’m now five months into this build and have essentially restarted multiple times because I keep finding things I’m not content with accuracy-wise (thigh armor, I'm looking at you). A huge part of this process has also just been learning. A a little over a month ago, I had basically zero Blender experience, so a lot of this has been trial, error, and figuring things out as I go. At the moment, these are primarily being built as supplemental pieces to pair with the MPSB files since a lot of the geometry and compatibility already exists there. Out of respect for Paul’s work and licensing, I can see a use-case where modeling my own files makes sense, as I cannot (and will not) distribute the necessary mods they need in order to comply with the TK CRLs. That said, long-term? I’d absolutely like to eventually release my own files in some capacity. Not because I’m trying to become a major armor vendor or anything, but because there really does seem to be a gap for highly accurate Anthology/New-Era TK files that are also printable and reasonably accessible. If I ever do release anything publicly, I’d want it to be: heavily tested (working on this now) accuracy-focused easy enough to print and reasonably priced Especially since the deeper I get into this project, the more I realize how many cool remnant/remixed TK variations could eventually be built from the same foundation (thank you Mando & Grogu). This is probably what excites me the most about this project if I'm being honest. But that’s a looong road away. Right now I’m still in the: “Does this print correctly?” followed immediately by: “Why does this still look wrong?” phase of development/modeling. So short-term answer: I honestly don’t know yet. Long-term answer: If I can eventually build something accurate, reliable, and genuinely useful to the community, then yes—I’d absolutely consider releasing them someday, but likely for a modest fee to help offset the absurd amount of time this rabbit hole has consumed.
    1 point
  6. First of all, thank you for the files! I recently got my very first 3D printer which is a P2S. That is a 256mm x 256mm printer. I have a large head so I did some prints with cuts of the helmet and ended up printing the whole thing at 102%. I should have gone larger because my glasses still rub on the lenses if I can even get the helmet on with them on. I thought the few extra mms would be enough without making it look like a comically big head. I was wrong. But I digress… Even at 102 percent there were only two pieces that I couldn't fit on my print bed with creative orientation. The first was the Dome which I had to cut in half. I chose to cut it just above each ear across. The Dome has enough strength that it lined up really well afterwards but if I knew how to do it I would have put a small lip on the joint. I chose to use ABS so I am bonding with acetone and a lip would have allowed me to do a nice lapped joint. Being that I just got this printer I have absolutely 0 experience in making and modifying files so I couldn't figure out how to do that but if I knew how it would have made putting the Dome back together very easy. The second piece I needed to cut down was the back of the helmet. The first time I cut it was right in the middle on the back but the plastic is so thin and doesn't have a lot of ridges so it kept warping on me and I could never get it to line up again. It could just be the ABS but I'm not sure. A lap joint or some other way to align it and give it strength to hold shape would have been amazing. I gave up and reprinted the piece cutting about ¾ inch off the end behind the left ear piece. The upside to that was there's a little more structure there so I got less warping but I still got some in the big piece that I had to fight. I used a piece of scrap ABS from one of my failed prints to create the backing plate that I wanted and wished I knew how to model in. I bonded that behind the joint for strength and alignment. The upside to cutting it there was that most of the seam will be covered by the earpiece. The next problem I'm going to tackle doesn't have to do with the size of my printer but my inability to modify files is holding me back. Because my head is so large I can't put my helmet on with my glasses on. I am going to try and find a way to put the chin piece on with magnets. The place you put the alignment pins for the chin to face parts will work for that but it leaves the bottom of the teeth floating. Some sort of tabs for the bottom edge of the teeth to hold small magnets would be cool. I will end up glueing scrap ABS there to make a lip for my magnets. But that’s not printer related… It’s a big head and glasses problem. Fun build so far.
    1 point
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