Laspector[TK] Posted February 28, 2009 Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 Does anybody here have a skullworx system? I find that I can't turn up my volume very loud without feedback. Anybody know how to correct this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK6540UKG Posted February 28, 2009 Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 Not familiar with the Skullworx kit, but had a similar issue with the ROM/FX. Depends on where the speaker is located. I have a full in bucket setup and had to mount the speakers in dynamat (automotive sound deadening material). Worked a treat. Also used to use a product here in the UK called 'blutack', used for sticking up posters. Thing is it makes the bucket dam heavy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laspector[TK] Posted February 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 Can you elaborate on the blutack thing? i know what that stuff is and I have some. Are you covering the speakers with it or what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK6540UKG Posted February 28, 2009 Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 I lined 2 deodorant caps with approx 3mm thickness of blutack and then added the speakers. Caps were then placed behind the hollow mic tips and then a bit more blutack used to seal any potential gaps inside the bucket. I have 45mm mylar speakers, not the small ones that fit in the aerators.. Hope thats makes sense.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-TIGGER Posted March 1, 2009 Report Share Posted March 1, 2009 i have the same issue with my skullworx-so youre definately not alone! i think it's due to the fact that the boom mic sits so close (at the frown) to the speakers (in the hovi tips) I've played around with moving the mic but no luck. I think the next step is to somehow put some deadening material behind the speakers, but i havent figured that part out just yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laspector[TK] Posted March 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2009 Please report if you find something that will work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
air-ship Posted March 16, 2009 Report Share Posted March 16, 2009 Does anybody here have a skullworx system? I find that I can't turn up my volume very loud without feedback. Anybody know how to correct this? Hi there. I've been conducting endless experiments (in my mad professor's lair i.e. the kitchen table) with different speaker mounted in aerators, caps and other strange arrangements. I've found that 20mm Mylar speakers mounted in 25mm toothpaste caps (kids toohpaste) works well with white tack mounted behind the speakers. I use a powered directional microphone which has a very small field of pickup. My Radio Shack mini amp is also modified to power the input jack. Now, I can get the sound quite loud but it just isn't loud enough to really project. So, I had a shower and a think. I now use a break out wire from my 20mm speakers and drop this down to another Radio Shack mounted in the chest plate. You now get good volume and sound from the lid. But, and this is a big but, you still end up with that extra amp mounted elsewhere, two lots of 9v batteries and evil feedback if you don't get it set correctly. Another experiment was with 40mm Mylar speakers mounted in squeezy mayonnaise caps. I made various cut-outs and modifications to fit the speakers and the final result is very neat and tidy, almost like it was designed for the lid. However, even though they are air tight with a resonance cavity (a gap) at the back of the cap, I get satan's feedback and can't get them as loud as the 20mm speakers! Incidentally, everything is in series. I've still to try different configurations with this set up - no giving up!!! I also bored out some Hovi's to take 20mm speakers - a very delicate job I can tell you. I then mounted caps behind a 15mm hole in the helmet. This works quite well but the boring out of the hovi's is not easy. At £5 a shot for resin Hovi's I don't want to make too many mistakes. It also takes ages to do. I've tried white tack and self adhesive acoustic deadening and white tack seems to work more effectively. I will persevere with the project and work out a solution. In my experience though, the feedback loop will prevail. The only thing to do is to get a configuration that has a happy balance. I want to create a magnetic connector from the helmet lead to a chest amp. This way, I can just whip the lid off and the lead comes away easily. A 9v power clip with magnets may work. Watch this space for Professor Kenyon's experiments into TK sound and feedback (that damn feedback). I'll try and get around to posting some pics. Rees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-TIGGER Posted May 30, 2009 Report Share Posted May 30, 2009 I found something that worked for me (standard skullworx kit in an MRCE helmet)! The ultimate fix: 1) remove the foam from the boom mic. 2)Place a piece of tape over the back part of the mic (the part facing out towards the helmet, opposite from the part you actually speak into). 3) Replace foam I found that the feedback was being caused by the omni-directional mic. The boom mic actually has 2 microphones (if you take the foam off, 1 on the front and one on the back): one by your mouth, and one on the back of this. Because of the confined space, the mic was actually sitting too close to the plastic of the helmet, which was createing the feedback. After taping the mic facing the helmet (essentially creating a uni-directional microphone) I tested with the skullworx amp and was able to turn it up just about all the way without feedback! I did some slight modifications and replaced the skullworx amp with a TCI. Again, I was able to bring it up to almost full volume with little to no feedback! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoopy trooper[TK] Posted May 31, 2009 Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 I found something that worked for me (standard skullworx kit in an MRCE helmet)!The ultimate fix: 1) remove the foam from the boom mic. 2)Place a piece of tape over the back part of the mic (the part facing out towards the helmet, opposite from the part you actually speak into). 3) Replace foam I found that the feedback was being caused by the omni-directional mic. The boom mic actually has 2 microphones (if you take the foam off, 1 on the front and one on the back): one by your mouth, and one on the back of this. Because of the confined space, the mic was actually sitting too close to the plastic of the helmet, which was createing the feedback. After taping the mic facing the helmet (essentially creating a uni-directional microphone) I tested with the skullworx amp and was able to turn it up just about all the way without feedback! I did some slight modifications and replaced the skullworx amp with a TCI. Again, I was able to bring it up to almost full volume with little to no feedback! that is what i did but used sticky Velcro on the back of it . worked like a charm . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK3100[TK] Posted July 24, 2010 Report Share Posted July 24, 2010 I need to ask what a TCI Amp is and how to hook it up. I was searching forums and found this solution to an issue I was having with my setup. Had it for 6 years, and just turned it down to avoid the FB. Thanks for your tip on the foam and tape over the boom mic. However, I am unclear on what a TCI am is in place of Skullworx version, or how to hook it up. Do you have more info? Thanks, George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK6294 Posted July 24, 2010 Report Share Posted July 24, 2010 (edited) On 7/24/2010 at 9:44 PM, TK3100 said: I need to ask what a TCI Amp is and how to hook it up. I was searching forums and found this solution to an issue I was having with my setup. Had it for 6 years, and just turned it down to avoid the FB. Thanks for your tip on the foam and tape over the boom mic. However, I am unclear on what a TCI am is in place of Skullworx version, or how to hook it up. Do you have more info? Thanks, George TCI is a voice/static burst card. It is ok but the hyperdyne and RomFX are much better. But the TCI should not be purchased. Here is why (see 5th posting down by Mike Lee)---------- I have spoken to Mike many times and he is a good trooper and I would recommend supporting him in his request. Edited January 30, 2021 by gmrhodes13 link not working, removed gmrhodes13 2021 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK3100[TK] Posted July 26, 2010 Report Share Posted July 26, 2010 That is just wrong! I had an issue a LONG time ago on the RPG with someone and the Blaster mods. Wont get into it here. Anyway, tried these tips to get teh Skullworxs feedbackminimized, but its negligible. Kind of frustrating since it has been like that the whole time. My brother has one and has no issues. Could be the circuit, I have no idea. Anyway, looking into the ROM/FX Pro setup now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK6294 Posted July 26, 2010 Report Share Posted July 26, 2010 (edited) On 7/26/2010 at 8:01 AM, TK3100 said: That is just wrong! I had an issue a LONG time ago on the RPG with someone and the Blaster mods. Wont get into it here. Anyway, tried these tips to get teh Skullworxs feedbackminimized, but its negligible. Kind of frustrating since it has been like that the whole time. My brother has one and has no issues. Could be the circuit, I have no idea. Anyway, looking into the ROM/FX Pro setup now. Be sure to check out this sales thread. These amps can be used alone or with the RomFX....------------ Edited January 30, 2021 by gmrhodes13 link not working, removed gmrhodes13 2021 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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