Platinum Lex Posted May 27 Report Posted May 27 Hey everyone, I was planning on starting a DLT-19 build for my ROTK build, the only problem being that I've both never finished a blaster before. I've watched a lot of videos explaining how to finish blasters and I'm pretty confident in my ability to do. I am only going for a level 1 certification for this blaster, which means no starting MG-34 and most likely no functional flashlight. HOWEVER, I am interested in a sling if they're not too expensive and if the files I am using (Galactic Armory's) can have a sling attached to it. What I also like about this particular DLT-19 file is that magnets can be included to hold the legs. I am going to 3D print the entire project as I've said before, aside from some dowel rods for support, but now that I have a resin printer I am thinking about what parts to resin print. As of right now, I am using standard PLA for the main body and some regular resin for some of the detail pieces, but not many since I don't want to risk breaking one of the pieces. I've gone through other build threads and reference posts, but am still thinking about what spray paints to use for this and how to give it that slightly weathered look. I am hoping to make a Jedha sandtrooper, most likely in 2027-28, but will also need help on where to post a build thread for an ROTK sandtrooper, whether in the ROTK build threads section or some other area. The CRL says nothing of needing to weather the blaster for a sandy environment so I don't think I'll be weathering it that way. Any and all help or advice would be appreciated along my journey, thanks. Quote
jsilvius[Staff] Posted May 27 Report Posted May 27 I think the only comment I would make currently is, be very careful using PLA. When I first started printing I printed several blasters in PLA, and every single one of them warped at some point. PLA doesn't deal well with even moderate heat. If you leave it in the car to go have some lunch before or after a troop, there is a high chance that it will warp. I personally, don't print anything that is going to go outside, or be stored in the car before/after an event in anything less then PETG. I would print everything in ASA or ABS if I had the right environmental controls, but so far, knock on wood, none of my PETG props, including my Droid, have had any issues. 1 Quote
Platinum Lex Posted May 27 Author Report Posted May 27 Gotcha, I've got some PETG laying around somewhere in my basement because I hope to be able to troop with this blaster. ABS IS more expensive than both of these, but would you recommend printing with it instead of PETG? I don't plan on leaving it in my car for long periods of time and warping isn't my biggest concern. Additionally, would anyone know specifically where the best place to start a build thread for a Rogue One Jedha sandtrooper would be? Quote
jsilvius[Staff] Posted May 27 Report Posted May 27 1 hour ago, Platinum Lex said: Gotcha, I've got some PETG laying around somewhere in my basement because I hope to be able to troop with this blaster. ABS IS more expensive than both of these, but would you recommend printing with it instead of PETG? I don't plan on leaving it in my car for long periods of time and warping isn't my biggest concern. Additionally, would anyone know specifically where the best place to start a build thread for a Rogue One Jedha sandtrooper would be? ABS is always better for strength and temperature resistance, but my experience thus far is that PETG does the job. As for a build thread for the Jedha Sandtrooper, you'll have to check out MEPD.net. They are the home of the Sandtroopers. There is a lot of information on MEPD for them. https://forum.mepd.net/index.php?/forum/59-jedha-city-sandtroopers/ As for build threads, I don't know if they do that there like we do. You can always start a R1 Build thread here, and then go make it dirty with them. 1 Quote
Sayless Posted May 28 Report Posted May 28 Chiming in on ABS filament specifically: it is highly recommended to use an enclosed printer with a heated chamber, as ABS is notorious for warping if there are any temperature fluctuations (and it's off gassing is toxic). I learned this the hard way when printing my E-11 barrel; on my first attempt, I accidentally left the enclosure door cracked after cleaning it, and the rest is history. If you are running an open printer setup, PETG is the gold standard. Regarding costs, prices will vary depending on where you are in the world, but I’ve found that buying in bulk levels the playing field. If you buy a multipack (usually 4 rolls) from SUNLU, their ABS is nearly the same price as their PETG. Right now, I'm seeing ABS at around $12.50/roll (ref: https://a.co/d/06Pljxqf) and PETG at $11.50/roll (ref: https://a.co/d/01gSvQog). That extra $1/roll for ABS is marginal when you consider the added heat resistance, durability, and ease of post-processing (like acetone vapor smoothing). Don't quote me on this, but if the DLT-19 uses the same flashlight style as the Rogue One E-11, you can pick up a functional "replica" light on Amazon here: https://a.co/d/0h83ztIm 2 Quote
Platinum Lex Posted May 28 Author Report Posted May 28 Thanks to both of you, this is all super helpful. The temperature can fluctuate in my printer room and it’s near my work/office area is, so I definitely don’t want any ABS fumes. Once I’m done with these next 4 helmet orders, I’m gonna start printing the blaster just to have it on standby. A very important question I have though is if all the optional accessories have to be the same level as the outfit itself, for example, if someone has a centurion level stormtrooper outfit, yet a level 1 or 2 blaster (not 3), would that make the outfit itself in whole not considered Centurion level? This is a little off topic from the blaster but I was looking at the Jedha Sandtrooper CRL and I noticed that the backpack and the crystal patrol duty pack could not be worn at the same time, but the duty pack was optional and the backpack was required. My question is if someone were to submit a centurion level Jedha sandtrooper outfit without the backpack and replaced it with a level 1 or 2 duty pack, if they would still get centurion? These are just things I’m thinking about that were brought to my attention while looking around, I’ll mainly be focusing on the blaster in this build thread after this. Quote
jsilvius[Staff] Posted May 28 Report Posted May 28 1 hour ago, Platinum Lex said: Thanks to both of you, this is all super helpful. The temperature can fluctuate in my printer room and it’s near my work/office area is, so I definitely don’t want any ABS fumes. Once I’m done with these next 4 helmet orders, I’m gonna start printing the blaster just to have it on standby. A very important question I have though is if all the optional accessories have to be the same level as the outfit itself, for example, if someone has a centurion level stormtrooper outfit, yet a level 1 or 2 blaster (not 3), would that make the outfit itself in whole not considered Centurion level? This is a little off topic from the blaster but I was looking at the Jedha Sandtrooper CRL and I noticed that the backpack and the crystal patrol duty pack could not be worn at the same time, but the duty pack was optional and the backpack was required. My question is if someone were to submit a centurion level Jedha sandtrooper outfit without the backpack and replaced it with a level 1 or 2 duty pack, if they would still get centurion? These are just things I’m thinking about that were brought to my attention while looking around, I’ll mainly be focusing on the blaster in this build thread after this. As I said before, the Jedha Sandtrooper is an MEPD costume. https://crls.501st.com/mepd/jedha-sandtrooper-rogue-one So there is no EIB (Level 2) or Centurion (level3) for it. FISD doesn't approve MEPD costumes. We are happy to help build the Non-Saga Stromtrooper (formally R1 Stormtrooper), but some of those questions will need to be addressed with MEPD (https://forum.mepd.net/) as to how their Level 2 and Level 3 approvals work. MEPD has Police Officer Program and S.W.A.T. Program as their Level 2 and Level 3 approvals. Typically, you need to meet all the criteria of Level 2 or Level 3 for that approval, but how you troop later is up to you. 1 Quote
Platinum Lex Posted June 3 Author Report Posted June 3 (edited) I started printing in PETG and the prints are coming out okay, I'm planning on printing the details and small parts in PLA to keep some of the detail, but since I'm sanding over them and filling them it might look the same regardless. I might make a YouTube video on the whole process but for now I'm just focusing on finishing the printing section. Thankfully my printer is just big enough to print everything without struggle and I'm done with all my current orders. Edited June 3 by Platinum Lex 1 Quote
Platinum Lex Posted 8 hours ago Author Report Posted 8 hours ago I'm almost done with printing the entire blaster in PETG, with a 1/2" wooden dowel rod I picked up down the center for internal support. I'm going to sand it all separately and use Bondo wherever it needs, followed by some Filler Primer before moving on to the painting stage. For the painting stage, I need help on what paints are recommended or what I can do with the paints that I already have. Here are all the paints that I own that I might use for my build, although I may not use all of them. I am going to add some light weathering around the edges with some silver paint but am not sure what to do for the base weapon. Looking at references of the MG34 and the blasters in ANH, it looks like some of them have a wooden stock/butt, but for Rogue One they seem to be the same material as the rest of the blaster. Looking at other build videos for other blasters, their base coat is either a satin black or PlastiDip for texture, but I'm leaning more towards the satin black. I want to add a clear coat to prevent some chipping in the future, but I think gloss is too much and if matte removes a bit of the shine, I won't be too bothered. Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted 5 hours ago Report Posted 5 hours ago MG-34 used bakelite for the stock Although not a requirement they also have wire wrapped around the T-tracks This is a nice build 1 Quote
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