PRAETORIAN BLASTERS - RUBBER BLASTER ESB E-11 BUILD

[postmortem01]

I've started collecting and making the parts required for the ESB E-11 Blaster. I'm hoping that y'all can help me figure out if I've got something wrong in the information that I've collected. I purchased the cassette recorder and carefully destroyed it to get the button. The other parts, I've painstakingly 3D modeled to perfection.  I have an M-19 and M32 scope. 

1. This picture shows a small t-track rail on the row with the bayonet mount. Is that accurate?
2. This does not have a hole in the front shown, is that accurate? (seems dumb)

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

There are several different versions, you can find ESB references here 

 

 

[postmortem01]

Yes. I have those photos. I guess my question is "What are the requirements for an acceptable ESB blaster?"

1. The outer most step on the barrel tip is sanded flush.
2. The greebles on the left side of the blaster
3. The greebles on the right side of the blaster
4. The rear greeble on top of the scope rail
5. The front greeble (casette player button) on the top of the scope rail
6. The rear cap has the oblong ring and ring mount sanded flush.
7. Magazine is pushed all the way in?

[postmortem01]

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

13 minutes ago, postmortem01 said:

I guess my question is "What are the requirements for an acceptable ESB blaster?"
 

E-11 Blaster (ESB) Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock (does not need to function). No ammo counter shall be present. D-ring mounted on the rear. Sterling based blasters have the correct M-38 or M-19 style scope. The M-19 scope is preferred. No power cylinders on the magazine housing. Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered). If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side. This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place. 3D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance.

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Hasbro blasters are not allowed, even conversions. T-tracks and grip shall be black with no solver/metallic weathering allowed. ---       https://databank.501st.com/databank/File:TK_esb_blaster2.jpeg   E-11 Blaster (promo) Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster.   OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock (does not need to function). No ammo counter shall be present. Correct style scope. No power cylinders on the magazine housing. Scratch-built or cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered). If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side. This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place. Two greeblies on the left rear area. Three studs on the right rear area. Add two scope block greeblies. Remove front bayonet muzzle disk. Remove magazine housing parts. Remove D-Ring mount. Swoosh trim on right side above the pistol grip. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Hasbro blasters are not allowed, even conversions.

[postmortem01]

Ok. Thank you. That answers my questions. There is a lot of variation in this particular blaster. 

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

There were 2 versions used in the film, John, which explains some of the differences.  One was a real decommissioned English Sterling L2A3 and the other was the resin cast "Pugman" type.  The one in your first pic is the Pugman version, which has the solid scope rail and trigger as well as the extra T-track behind the bayonet lug.  It also has the magazine pushed all the way in, no barrel hole and a different front similar to the Sterling Mark V Canadian C1.

 

                                                                          Sterling

 

                                                                          Pugman

 

As for the Sony cassette button it doesn't quite match those seen onscreen.  Note how the the top is a straight line as opposed to the uneven one shown. 

 

               

 

I think you did a fantastic job on the rear greeb, though!

 

You might want to scale the buttons down a bit.  The photos show them as not being too tall.

 

  

 

I would also suggest using a Star head screw on the flat greeb as opposed to a philips head and slotted pan-head screws for the rebar clips.  These are available at most ACE hardware stores.  

 

                 

 

Sorry if I shared too much info., lol, but OT weapons are kind of a passion for me.  Looking forward to seeing your progress!