Teach-[TK] Posted September 13, 2025 Report Posted September 13, 2025 I ordered 3D files from Galactic Armory. I friend of mine printed them for me, mostly in back, but the bipod was grey. The bipod legs and the main housing were too big for the printer so they had to be printed in two separate parts. I sanded everything down. The print lines were vey fine so the sanding wasn't overwhelming. I used some scraps from my RO TK build to make inserts that I put inside the bipod legs in order to support them when I cemented them together with J-B Weld. I also cemented the main housing piece together. For both of them, I used some Bondo Spot Putty to fill the small seam. Once sanded, I first primed the inner barrel with Rust-oleum flat gray. I then painted them with Rust-Oleum flat black. I knew that once the barrel was built, it would be difficult to fully paint those inner barrels. I then primed all the pieces of the outer barrel and the main housing and stock. I built the two pieces (front barrel and housing/stock) and painted them flat black. I then used pure graphite powder and brushed it onto all the "metal" parts except the stock. I left that flat black. In order to make travel easier, I left the two main parts as separate pieces. I used two pieces of 1/2 inch aluminum tube and a 3/8 inch solid aluminum rod to make an insert to stabilize the blaster and to give it a little more weight. I put a rubber stopper down the front of the barrel so the aluminum rod would not slip out. I also made the rod into two parts, one with the aluminum rod glued into the tube and an additional tube that slid over about 7 inches of exposed inner rod. Together they fit into the inside of the blaster. The completed DLT19 was approved for use by my GMLs. It's good to go for New Hampshire Comic Con with the New England Garrison this coming weekend! 2 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted September 13, 2025 Report Posted September 13, 2025 Very nice, you could take it to the next level with some wire on the T-tracks and paint the butt similar to bakelight wiring references bakelite references Couldn't quite make out if you have the ridged plate on the rear of the stock and screw 3 Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted September 14, 2025 Report Posted September 14, 2025 WOW, Bob.. phenomenal job on this! I have built quite a few 3D printed (by others) SW weapons but just learned about using graphite to achieve the metallic finish recently. It really does take it above and beyond and I wish I would have known about that on my build! Excessive sanding has always been an issue in the past.. a pain in the backside but well worth the finished product. What was the material/method that was used in this print? It came out really smooth, and anything that saves time makes life easier! Excellent points on using the aluminum rod/tube and rubber stopper not just for easy break-down but for added strength as well. To take it to the next level(s) of screen accuracy I would suggest adding the black wire as Glen mentioned. It's just a few dollars on Amazon (link here), takes about 10 minutes to add but is one of those small details a lot of DLT-19 builders miss and it takes it to the next level. I did the brown bakelite finish on my stock. It can be seen (barely) in my Hero shot below. It takes some time but is also well worth the effort. Thanks for sharing your build, brother! Quote
fletchimo Posted September 22, 2025 Report Posted September 22, 2025 Hi there! The blaster looks great, well done! I've got the same file printed out and I'm currently sanding ready to paint. I was wondering if you had any advice on how to assemble to bipod with the springs/magnets. There's not really any instructions I can find on how to assemble it. Thanks! Quote
Teach-[TK] Posted September 27, 2025 Author Report Posted September 27, 2025 On 9/22/2025 at 2:35 PM, fletchimo said: Hi there! The blaster looks great, well done! I've got the same file printed out and I'm currently sanding ready to paint. I was wondering if you had any advice on how to assemble to bipod with the springs/magnets. There's not really any instructions I can find on how to assemble it. Thanks! I decided not to build it with a movable bipod. I never planned to display it and figured I'd always be carrying it while trooping. It was a bit of a dilemma to make that decision, but I'm not really having any regrets. I'm sorry I don't have advice for that part of the build. 1 Quote
Teach-[TK] Posted September 29, 2025 Author Report Posted September 29, 2025 I did some weathering and added a bakelite finish to the blaster. For the weathering of the metal, I used Rub 'n Buff Pewter for the majority and Rub 'n Buff Silver Leaf in about four spots that would get a little more wear. For the bakelite weathering, I used Rust-Oleum warm caramel as the undercoat. I then used the toothpaste method and did the top coat with Rust-Oleum satin espresso. I'm pretty happy with the results. I ordered the craft wire and will add that to the T-tracks in the future. 4 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted September 29, 2025 Report Posted September 29, 2025 Very nice, just takes it up a level I didn't add any weathering to the T-track or handle on mine, much like the E-11 they should be black plastic Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted September 29, 2025 Report Posted September 29, 2025 Incredible work on this, Bob.. a piece to be truly proud of! Quote
Teach-[TK] Posted January 18 Author Report Posted January 18 On 9/14/2025 at 1:02 AM, justjoseph63 said: WOW, Bob.. phenomenal job on this! I have built quite a few 3D printed (by others) SW weapons but just learned about using graphite to achieve the metallic finish recently. It really does take it above and beyond and I wish I would have known about that on my build! Excessive sanding has always been an issue in the past.. a pain in the backside but well worth the finished product. What was the material/method that was used in this print? It came out really smooth, and anything that saves time makes life easier! Excellent points on using the aluminum rod/tube and rubber stopper not just for easy break-down but for added strength as well. To take it to the next level(s) of screen accuracy I would suggest adding the black wire as Glen mentioned. It's just a few dollars on Amazon (link here), takes about 10 minutes to add but is one of those small details a lot of DLT-19 builders miss and it takes it to the next level. I did the brown bakelite finish on my stock. It can be seen (barely) in my Hero shot below. It takes some time but is also well worth the effort. Thanks for sharing your build, brother! "Excessive sanding has always been an issue in the past.. a pain in the backside but well worth the finished product. What was the material/method that was used in this print? It came out really smooth, and anything that saves time makes life easier!" We used a Bambu Lab printer (I don't know what model exactly) and printed with PETG. It was the default setting. Quote
Teach-[TK] Posted January 25 Author Report Posted January 25 Added a flashlight to coincide with my Rogue One TK. I used the Galactic Armory E11 flashlight. I cut a small hole on the barrel of the DLT-19 to fit it into. I used flat black and then powdered graphite like I did on the blaster. One experiment I tried was painting the lens white and then polishing the graphite into it to give it a sheen. I'm mostly happy with how that came out. I also weathered the flashlight to match what I had done on the blaster. I also have the wire for the T-tracks but can't find a RO image that has the wire. Maybe a future addition. Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted January 25 Report Posted January 25 I'm not seeing any wire or notches the wire sits in, and there is no mention in the ROTK CRL 1 Quote
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