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Posted

Hi everyone, I’m back like the T800Ā ?

So what’s the only thing TKs are missing that’s super cool in Star Wars? Well my thought is the lightsaberĀ ?Ā and as the Hero version is allowed to have one… I need a Hero!

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As the base I will be using my RWA Stunt suit with a new helmet and belt.

Troopermaster TM was kind enough to help me out and not only provide a kit but also match the ABS color as my RWA suit is a bit whiter than most. He did a great job!Ā ?

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Of course we need a lightsaber too ?Ā so question to whoever will follow my journey. Same build thread or a separate one for the lightsaber?

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** pictures on the way Ā 

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Posted

[Dark manly voice]: Calling out to all Autobots… I mean Stormtroopers!Ā ?

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Help needed!

So I don’t want to mess this up and aiming to do it the most accurate I can to a certain point. What’s the ā€œlatestā€ to think of when doing the Hero helmet and belt?

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I know about the four rivets for the holster on the belt. I’ve found some member who’s done this.. accurate?

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The helmet is the same as the Stunt except the mouth and also hovic tips that are black inside instead of white?

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Posted

Personally for your saber build I'd do another thread.

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The "hero" helmets for the original film were not just stunt helmets assembled differently. They were completely separate molds (softer pull/details) giving them a slightly different look used both for the hero TK and the TIE fighter pilot. If you were to make the ATA into a hero, I would suggest taking the time to iron out the 4th and 5th tooth indents leaving only the three as well as opening up the eyes slightly larger.

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My modified ATA helmet so the last teeth impressions were removed

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Some great references and information starwarshelmets.com:Ā http://starwarshelmets.com/original-ANH-hero-Stormtrooper-armor-helmets.htm

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Found your other thread hereĀ 

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Posted

Light saber info

CRL image

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3D files

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You can find a copy of Star Wars Insider #85 hereĀ https://archive.org/details/starwarsinsider_1_to_153_plus_specials/Star Wars Insider 085 (2006)/

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ReferencesĀ 

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Posted
3 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Personally for your saber build I'd do another thread.

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The "hero" helmets for the original film were not just stunt helmets assembled differently. They were completely separate molds (softer pull/details) giving them a slightly different look used both for the hero TK and the TIE fighter pilot. If you were to make the ATA into a hero, I would suggest taking the time to iron out the 4th and 5th tooth indents leaving only the three as well as opening up the eyes slightly larger.

galler10.jpg

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galler11.jpg

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My modified ATA helmet so the last teeth impressions were removed

tKVWP5i.jpg

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Some great references and information starwarshelmets.com:Ā http://starwarshelmets.com/original-ANH-hero-Stormtrooper-armor-helmets.htm

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Found your other thread hereĀ 

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@gmrhodes13Ā I knew you had some fantastic info stored up your sleeveĀ ?

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I’ve actually bought a Hero TM helmet to build so I won’t be needing any modifications I think but your reference pictures and info is fantastic! Super grateful for the help.

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I think I’ve sourced all info on the lightsaber. There isn’t that much to go by more than 2 pictures I think that’s ā€officialā€. Won’t be using the 3D print versions after some consideration as I feel both have good and bad things going with them. Also I love my lightsabers with aluminum hilts as it feels real and sturdy in your hand. So I’m going the route of modifying a hilt I’ve bought.

I will start a separate build thread on the lightsaber as suggestedĀ ?

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Posted (edited)

Starting up with the basics.. cleaning the ABS. Easier when it’s all in parts so when you’re done assembling just wipe it down and you’re doneĀ āœ…

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Using my lexan scissors I do a basic trim on all parts.

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In sharp corners if I’m afraid of cutting and making the abs crack I drill a little safety hole. It’s easy with a small file making a sharp corner when done trimming.

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Fitting faceplate and back. Using magnets to hold them when adjusting and some extra masking tape when the positioning feels right. Forgot the eyes and teeth when doing this so back stepped and did both. You get carried away sometimesĀ ?

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When you’ve found the spot that feels right for the faceplate it’s time for the first upper rivets on the sides and a test fit…

(Taped in the lenses to get a real feel)

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Edited by Lafleur
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Posted

Nice work, you do appear to have a slight angle on the brow trim though, easily fixed by bringing the brow trim down a little

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Posted

Part 2, the ears. Forgot how I hate the stress of fitting the ears ?

The Hero helmet was a bit harder than my Stunt as it only has 2 screws holding it down so you need to be extra thorough to get a flush fit.

Must say I’m really impressed with the mold lines on Troopermasters ears, they are almost spot on when fitting.

After a lot of testing, fitting, cutting and sanding.. we have a basic Hero helmet doneĀ ?

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Posted

Done the last trimming and sanding. Test fitted the rubber trim on the opening of the helmet. Ready for paint…

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Posted
6 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Nice work, you do appear to have a slight angle on the brow trim though, easily fixed by bringing the brow trim down a little

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Yes, was looking in horror at the ear pieces wondering how the hell those where getting trimmed and mountedĀ ?

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Posted

You're making me want to build another helmet. Those ears look nice and snug and I'm glad you got past that part. It's the hardest part of assembly for sure

Posted
53 minutes ago, JBar said:

You're making me want to build another helmet. Those ears look nice and snug and I'm glad you got past that part. It's the hardest part of assembly for sure


Thanks! 😊 Needed to hear some good as I’m finding more and more small things I’ve done wrong. It’s fun doing this, and I love building but to be honest I’m no expert, far from it. And doing all the mistakes break my spirit a bitĀ šŸ™ˆĀ I get carried away and overdo things, have a hard time leaving them wonky, cricked and not symmetrical.. I can look at a picture, aim for it and look back 10min later and wonder what the hell I was thinkingĀ šŸ˜…

I know it will end up okay in the end, and I know I will be proud of the result but the way there is a rollercoaster for me.

So I really appreciate your moral support and also not to mention support I get behind the scenes. @NairyĀ my friend and garrison buddy have given me a lot and even Paul at Troopermaster have reached out giving me super great tips and @gmrhodes13Ā pulling out spreadsheets, pictures. Thanks to all of you!

So in the spirit of ā€œtroopers helping troopersā€ I’ll add the section ā€œwhat NOT to doā€ in my build thread too 😃

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Posted

Need some paint on the bucket too.

As I always have troubles having a steady hand, especially when applying dark paint on white background I try and keep the outer black line as straight and solid I can but don’t give full attention do the inside as it’s going to be gray later anyways. This helps me a lot doing the black first and grey after, more forgiving.

Added a bit grey to the mouth too.

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This was when I started realizing mistakes have been done and they where not to be alone, more would followĀ šŸ˜”

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Posted

Following is a guide on WHAT NOT TO DO!!Ā šŸ˜…

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I had cut out the teeth too muchĀ šŸ˜”Ā Even though looking at pictures, planing and having a goal I somewhere on the line got carried away and took a bit too much. ā€œThis needs to be a bit straighterā€, ā€œonly touching up thisā€ and ā€œfixing this small thing, there is a lineā€.

I know this is an issue I need to work with myself on but here I am. Honestly at first I just wanted to quit as I got so angry at myself. But after some mental torture and a lot of screen helmets I at least found one probably made by the intern that was at least close to mineĀ šŸ˜†

So my Hero won’t be Luke or Solos, it’s the one in the backĀ šŸ˜…

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But as you know misery loves company!

Blue linesā€¦Ā šŸ˜’

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Posted

I used a template.

My opinion is don’t!Ā āŒĀ Mine are now sorted to the trashcan. These give a lot of bleed through and are also very hard to place on the curvy surface.

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Troopermaster gave me the advise to just use some thin masking tape and a precut template. So stealing his pictures he sent me to show you guys how I think it should be done next time 🫣

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At first I was thinking of just starting over and wiping the paint of the bucket. I know the bleed is easily fixed with just a toothpick after the paint have dried as I did it on my last bucket.

This time though I thought before doing. The Humbrol Enamel paint isn’t the easiest cleaning so tried first on a spare plastic piece. And WOW am I glad I did this. The only thing really cleaning it also dissolves the abs I just left a second or two 😱 I know this is an issue talked about a lot here on the forum but can’t say it enough! Even the brush was just to throw away after as it was full of abs.

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Ditched that idea and went back to clean the lines with toothpicks after it dried instead. Just carefully rubb the tip in an angle against the paint and it will slowly scrape it off. The the tip gets full, cut 1mm of and continue or take a new toothpick.

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Before:

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After:

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After doing this I went back with ā€œthe right wayā€ and did a touch up to the lines I wasn’t happy with. It will need some minor toothpick trimming after dried too but not muchĀ šŸ™‚

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Posted

It looks stunning!Ā :peace:

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Posted

The Hovi Mix got some paint too. This was at least straight forward and went without any mishaps. Did some distressed white on the rim of them to make them appear a bit used and scuffed as screen ones.

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Some last minute trimming and paint on the ears and screws.

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Posted

A couple of ways to reduce bleeding is use a painters masking tape not just masking tape, also paint white first, any bleed areas then get full of white, then apply your blueĀ ;)Ā 

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Posted
1 minute ago, gmrhodes13 said:

A couple of ways to reduce bleeding is use a painters masking tape not just masking tape, also paint white first, any bleed areas then get full of white, then apply your blueĀ ;)Ā 


I have used painters masking tape but still get bleed, I’m a master at itĀ šŸ˜‚

but painting it white first was brilliant!!!Ā šŸ˜±ā¤ļø Thanks for the tip.

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Posted
1 minute ago, Lafleur said:

The Hovi Mix got some paint too. This was at least straight forward and went without any mishaps. Did some distressed white on the rim of them to make them appear a bit used and scuffed as screen ones.

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Hovi mesh can also be painted black if you wish

  • Correct Aerators/Hovi-MIX tips are present. Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh. The rim of the mic may be weathered, and the inside raised area painted white. Interior sides shall be painted black, mesh can also be painted black.

References

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Posted
2 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Hovi mesh can also be painted black if you wish

  • Correct Aerators/Hovi-MIX tips are present. Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh. The rim of the mic may be weathered, and the inside raised area painted white. Interior sides shall be painted black, mesh can also be painted black.

References

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I wasn't sure on this so didn’t want to be hasty in my decision (tried to learn from my mistakes). But leaning towards painting them black as I think it looks niceĀ šŸ¤”

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Posted

Sounds like my first time. But honestly yours is looking great. When you said that you cut out the teeth too much, do you mean too wide or from the back? They look ok to me unless you wanted some "depth" of plastic recessing. Even then it's only something you'll notice. If you ever see me in my armor I can point out a dozen places where I "messed up" and only I would notice. I think yours is well on track looking like a great Luke/Han Hero helmet.

I'm also stunned how you were able to recover those tube stripes. Which template did you use? I used one from Trooperbay and it came out great. I let the paint dry for about a day first before removing.

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I'm currently helping some friends build their and it is SO much easier now. Your first time will feel very frustrating but you're pulling it off. Next armor you do is going to feel like a breeze. Keep it up

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