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TK-Tom's Not So Excellent Adventure - ANH Stunt TK Build


TK-Tom

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I noticed something on ALL my cover strips as well. When I trim the corners, I made them too big of a cut. Hopefully this will not interfere with any approvals. If so, I just blew away ~$1300.00

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The chamfer is a little steep but ok. Just make sure the cover strip runs to the top of the right shin, should be on both but as your said you wont see the left.

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I noticed something on ALL my cover strips as well. When I trim the corners, I made them too big of a cut. Hopefully this will not interfere with any approvals. If so, I just blew away ~$1300.00

Nahhh....  I'm sure another armor maker is willing to supply cover strips for you.  The match might not be 100% perfect, but I think it should still look good.  Check with Mark from AP.  I think he goes by ABS80 here on the forums.  He's been known to sell replacement parts.  Great guy to deal with too.  http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/36140-ap-replacement-parts/#entry475432

 

Even if the AP stuff doesn't match the Anovos 100% perfect, it still might be better than something that looks pieced together at the end with paste.  Though, I've seen people work magic with the paste before.  One suggestion might be to move the patched up piece further away from where somebody might see it.  For example, bottom of shin instead of top.  Top of forearm instead of wrist.  Hope that helps a bit.  Good luck.  You're still looking pretty good though.

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I think cover strips of a different tone of white would REALLY jump out at you.

 

Tom- Brilliant idea to swap the cover strips for left and right legs! It's a little more work, obviously, but frankly, that might solve the problem entirely without any further adjustments needed! Once again, E6000 saves the day. :)

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I think cover strips of a different tone of white would REALLY jump out at you.

 

Tom- Brilliant idea to swap the cover strips for left and right legs! It's a little more work, obviously, but frankly, that might solve the problem entirely without any further adjustments needed! Once again, E6000 saves the day. :)

 

KMan, I can't swap the cover strips, they are both cut short. Just gonna have to do your ABS method of "filling the gap" when I put down another section of cover strip at the top. What grit should I use to sand it down with? I know I will be sanding part of the original, good cover strip too, when I do this, (I can't "stay in the lines" really good), so will Novus 123 help me out and restore it like new?

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Oh, shoot, you're right. I don't know why I was thinking that the other leg was full length.

 

In that case, yes, you'll likely need to rebuild the strip as we discussed on FB.

 

Any sanding you do is going to be very fine, and you'll be trying to bring about a mirror finish, you'll want to be on the high end, for sure. It's a small area (just the actual thin seam between them, really, although realistically you'll probably sand a coin-sized circle) and you don't want to remove a lot of material, so I would probably consider starting at at least 400 and working your way higher quickly, switching to wet sanding for the higher grits, and then finally onto the Novus.

 

I've seen Novus 1-2-3 do some pretty remarkable restoration, so I think there is hope.

 

One other idea to consider. We're talking about a VERY tiny seam here, on a 20mm strip. It's barely going to be visible, especially if you flip the strip so it's down near your ankle and less visible. It might be worth trying this: Remove the strip as planned. Cut off the chamfered end so you have a straight-across cut, using a very sharp tool. Then sand that end so it's PERFECTLY flat: Tape a piece of high-grit (400 or even higher) sandpaper to a table, and rig something to hold the cover strip at a perfect 90 degree angle to the sandpaper, and sand the end perfectly flat. Then do the same for the new little piece that you're adding. That should give you a nearly perfect seam between the two pieces. You MIGHT even get away with using something simple like white caulking between the two pieces to make that seam really disappear.

 

This is just speculation, but it might be worth a little experiment if you have enough scrap cover strip pieces left to give it a little try and see how it looks. (A couple 1" pieces could probably give a viable test) Not a bad idea to clean up and "make perfect" the ends of the actual cover strips by sanding the ends as described, regardless of how you decide to join them, though, because that can only help things.

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working with the cover strip off the shin will probably be easier anyway. And since I will take it all off, I will work on the bottom edge, where it is much less noticable.

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Have you considered the possibility of getting your limbs surgically shortened?

Yuk-yuk-yuk....  Sorry, I will show myself out now.

 

Yea, take one for the team  :laugh1:

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So last night I fixed my blunder and I think it came out great.

 

Cover strip elongated without ABS paste and it is very, very hard to see where unless you look purposefully for it. And since it will be the end on the right shin down by my ankle, should be no problem.

I perfectly lined up old piece with cover strip and it was perfect match. I then used CA glue and Zip Kicker. Then lightly sanded until I could not feel a ridge. Then I Novus 3, 2, 1 it to death. I am satisfied. Might not be perfect for purists, but it works for me.

 

776qac4.jpg

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So now I am re-gluing the proper length cover strip to the Right Shin. Just need to get the Sniper Plate installed, and the rear shin hook system done and I can suit up. Then all that remains in the bucket work.

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Sniper plate gluing, center only, fixing the left bicep to forearm connection, and finishing up the Right shin where I had to repair the cover strip. Before gluing other half, as I was cleaning the glue up, the repaired section seperate a little on the open half. A little Zap a Gap and Zip Kicker was needed again. Now with the E6000 connecting both halves, should not have any further issues. I will have to check to see if I need to sand and polish again, but will cross that bridge tomorrow if needed. Just 3 more parts to glue, 2 nights

 

Gz6jRQN.jpg

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Almost done with the plastic part! Next you get to discover the real hassle... the internal rigging! LOL

 

Internal rigging is done. I did that as I assembled each section. The "trim for length" after first full fitting, is what I fear...

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Last night's work. One more gluing night for shin hooks and thigh garter snap plates then time to SUIT UP~ (then adjust for LENGTH....uggghhh). Oh yeah, then helmet and electronics but I will submit and then do that while I am waiting...

 

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Here is tonight's final gluing work...

 

rtNY0Bf.jpg

 

 

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Tony, I need to heat my butt plate to bend the sides so that it wraps around my butt. Right now I have butt flare, especially when I snap the cod to the butt plate. But the problem with this is, I have enough return edge all around the butt plate for the bracket system, and shaping the sides of the butt plate will buckle the return edge. What is the best way to handle this?

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Tony, I need to heat my butt plate to bend the sides so that it wraps around my butt. Right now I have butt flare, especially when I snap the cod to the butt plate. But the problem with this is, I have enough return edge all around the butt plate for the bracket system, and shaping the sides of the butt plate will buckle the return edge. What is the best way to handle this?

 

So, do you have flare if you don't connect the cod to the posterior? 

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Upset with myself last night. While putting thighs on to measure for snap plate placement for my garter belt system, I lost balance and slipped when putting right thigh in place and separated the front cover strip at the top. About a 3rd down, so regluing while adding inside reinforcements as well as the snap plate. So instead of a suit up tonight, it has been delayed by 1-2 days because I won't be able to glue shin strapping until tonight. Argggg

 

 

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Edited by TK-Tom
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