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Questions on finishing and painting FOTK armor


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I've repaired a few surfboards and water craft toys in my time. Fiberglass resin products are best suited in this case. I would contact a boat repair facility or Tap Plastics and see what they recommend. You need something that is strong yet flexible.

Yeah I'm not too concerned about that area being flexible. It is pretty stationary at least for the most part. As long as I can get it shaped right, thats all im worried about. Was thinking I might have to go behind and lay down a little cloth and resin to help reshape it but, didn't know if there might be an easier way with an apoxie sculpt type of material. This will be a bit of a challenge. Only other option is to order a new chest plate from Jim. Trying to not have to do that.

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Yeah I'm not too concerned about that area being flexible. It is pretty stationary at least for the most part. As long as I can get it shaped right, thats all im worried about. Was thinking I might have to go behind and lay down a little cloth and resin to help reshape it but, didn't know if there might be an easier way with an apoxie sculpt type of material. This will be a bit of a challenge. Only other option is to order a new chest plate from Jim. Trying to not have to do that.

 

It also depends on what type of paint you'll be using afterwards. Something that is pliable is a high priority IMO. Every panel on your armor flexes more than you think. The chest flexes also when installing, removing, bringing your arms together, etc. Just something to keep into consideration. ;)  

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You are absolutely right. In fact, the chest plate and abs on my armor flexe the most out of every other piece. Mostly when suiting up and down. This stuff is super flexible and I will for sure be using a spray gun instead of a rattle can and automotive paint and clear coat with a flex agent. This is locked in. Now if I can just get all the other little annoying details fixed and get it ready for the paint process, I'll be a happy camper. Right now I'm just a little overwhelmed and slightly annoyed. So...I'm channeling my inner Little Engine that Could....I think I can, I think I can...

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How did you go about finding someone to paint it for you? And how much did it cost?

 

Any reputable paint shop will do. I just happen to have a friend who's a pro painter but it still ended up costing me about $1K. Well worth it IMO. 

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haha yea it wasn't cheap but i've trooped in the armor 1/2 a dozen times already and it still looks show room new. Even where the armor sections naturally rub together are still perfect. You get what you pay for as the ole saying goes. 

 

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So flex agent seems like a good idea. Will a car paint shop know what that is? Is there a specific brand that I should tell them to use?

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You are absolutely right. In fact, the chest plate and abs on my armor flexe the most out of every other piece. Mostly when suiting up and down. This stuff is super flexible and I will for sure be using a spray gun instead of a rattle can and automotive paint and clear coat with a flex agent. This is locked in. Now if I can just get all the other little annoying details fixed and get it ready for the paint process, I'll be a happy camper. Right now I'm just a little overwhelmed and slightly annoyed. So...I'm channeling my inner Little Engine that Could....I think I can, I think I can...

I've heard flex agent can cause a yellowing in whites....im spraying mine but was advised against using a flex agent. was also told it'll still loose its 'flex' in time.....
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  • 3 weeks later...

The reason that some paints crack is because most rattle can lacquer paints are not designed to flex very much if at all. You need some kind of flex agent if the surface is going to bend past a given point.

 

The other issue is some rattle can paints say they have one coat finish, or double coats, etc. This lays the paint on too thick and this can also cause cracking.

 

As mentioned, prep is a big deal. I've painted plenty of things, props and helmets and costumes with Krylon and never had issues if the prep was done right.

 

- sand surface down to 400

- clean surface (remove all oils, I find on plastic, resin and fiberglass liquid dish detergent works well. on metal use degreaser)

- use a tack cloth to remove lint

- prime the surface. Several light coats, the first is a dusting coat. Never lay it on heavy.

- after dry, apply top color coat. Several light coats, the first is a dusting coat. Never lay it on heavy

- always start your spray before you pass over the object, end the spray after you pass it

- try to keep one edge always "wet" as you cover your object in left to right rows

- I can't stand Youtube videos where people just "wag the can all over" because this leaves an uneven finish

- do both on the same day, never leave coats too far apart otherwise they won't bond to each other

- let it dry. At least 3-4 days, a week is great.

- never paint in the sun, or on hot humid days, this affects the paint greatly

- never paint in the cold

 

This is helpful... procedure-wise.

 

I am hunting for more threads slash info on painting methods. Jim's armor will be my first armor ever and I claim ignorance.  And... it seems like there are differing opinions on which brand of paint to go with.  

 

I'm continuing to do research if anybody knows a better thread, let me know. Thanks!

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Did lots of research on this. It was suggested to get a flex agent mixed in with your primer / base an clear coat. Think of it as a bumper. I put an ad out on craigslist with a pict of the armor looking for autobody guys that could paint it on the side. Found one that owns a small shop that was super knowledgable and would do it for 450 including materials. He was also gonna have the paint digitally color matched to my anovos bucket. Sounds to me like the prep work prior to paint is critical too. Some guys report hardly and prep, others talk about lots of prep. Bondo, sand, prime. Rinse, wash, repeat. Learning as I go too.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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