Paint Problems

[TK Sparky]

So I bought HIPS kits from Scooch about 6 months ago and have been working on it ever since. This last weekend fianlly got it all together and submitted my photos. While everything looks nice on the photos, im a little unhappy with the finish from the paint that i used and figured i would ask around here and see what you guys recomend on the paint.

 

I have been using Rust-Oleum Painters Touch Ultra Cover flat white primer from home depot (it was the only brand that claimed it works on plastic) as a base primer. Then I would wet sand, and top coat with two coats of Rust-Olenum Professional High Performance Enamel in gloss white. And i would get one of two results - it would dry and leave this sort of grainy finish. Not smooth, like you could see the little droplets of paint. Its not really noticable - but I notice it. The other thing that would happen, i would get a really smooth even finish on about 95% of the surface, and get this horrible wrinkling of the paint about 10 min after spraying it on and it started to dry. Which i would then have to sand off and repaint the item.

 

Any suggestions? Anyone have sucess with a specfic product?

 

Thanks

[DizzyStormtrooper[501st]]

you cant use those paints together.for a base coat all you need is a LIGHT coat of basic primer, i use the cheapest kind from walmart (the blue cans on the bottom shelf usually) or krylon primer if i can find it, but its pretty rare as they have that dual stuff now. the ultra cover you used has an additive in it, i forget what it was, but it interferes with the enamel in the top coat. ive been using spraypaints for many many years, all kinds for cars to model kits to go cart bodies etc. wetsand it down with 400, apply a light coat of cheap primer, then top off with the rustoleum professional.

 

its also important when you're shooting the professional, the stuff comes out fast, so do 3 light coats, waiting 5 mins between each coat. the dome is a bit more difficult since you have to keep turning it to ensure the whole thing is even. the wet coats blend into eachother which gives it the smooth shine. if its smooth and doesnt orange peel, let it dry for 5 days. i left mine in a cardboard box with a bunch of silica gel packets you get from shoe boxes etc.

 

my scootch build here should help you out:

http://forum.501stspecopsdet.net/index.php?/topic/2112-dizzys-cap-w-bucket-restoratation-and-build/

Edited January 21, 2014 by DizzyStormtrooper

[gazmosis[501st]]

In my experience, my faults only came when I tried to paint over the primer too soon. Again...in my experience, whenever I followed the manufacturer's directions, my paintjob failed. By failed I mean wrinkling and had to start over. What ended up being the solution was to use a primer for plastics and make sure that I let it cure for no less than 10 days in a minimum 65-70 degree temp (not in my cooler basement) After 10 days, you can put as many coats as you want according to directions. each coat to be applied within 15 minutes of each other. I used 3-4 coats, then wet sanded 1000 grit sand paper, rubbing compound, polishing compound, then wax.

[Tolo[TK]]

I painted a Jarvis TIE Pilot helmet. As a primer, I used an automotive primmer. It's to be apied on bumper when you need to repaint it. Everything seemed to hold on after 3 months of painting.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

[Haribon72[TK]]

Hello Dominick, I have the same helmet.  Here's my photo gallery on my paint job (with step by step pics).   I hope this helps with your painting project. 

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Edited December 26, 2021 by gmrhodes13
link not working removed

[TK Sparky]

On 1/21/2014 at 2:07 PM, Haribon72 said:

Hello Dominick, I have the same helmet.  Here's my photo gallery on my paint job (with step by step pics).   I hope this helps with your painting project. 

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Where did you find that paint?

Edited December 26, 2021 by gmrhodes13
link not working removed

[TK Sparky]

you cant use those paints together.for a base coat all you need is a LIGHT coat of basic primer, i use the cheapest kind from walmart (the blue cans on the bottom shelf usually) or krylon primer if i can find it, but its pretty rare as they have that dual stuff now. the ultra cover you used has an additive in it, i forget what it was, but it interferes with the enamel in the top coat. ive been using spraypaints for many many years, all kinds for cars to model kits to go cart bodies etc. wetsand it down with 400, apply a light coat of cheap primer, then top off with the rustoleum professional.

 

its also important when you're shooting the professional, the stuff comes out fast, so do 3 light coats, waiting 5 mins between each coat. the dome is a bit more difficult since you have to keep turning it to ensure the whole thing is even. the wet coats blend into eachother which gives it the smooth shine. if its smooth and doesnt orange peel, let it dry for 5 days. i left mine in a cardboard box with a bunch of silica gel packets you get from shoe boxes etc.

 

my scootch build here should help you out:

http://forum.501stspecopsdet.net/index.php?/topic/2112-dizzys-cap-w-bucket-restoratation-and-build/

Ok - good advice. Any sugesstions on what do now? All my armor is painted. Some of the pieces look great - like the cheast plate. And some like the shoulder bells have that grainy finish - if i was to wet sand and do the 3 light coats you talk about - do you think it would handle it?

[DizzyStormtrooper[501st]]

grainy could also mean there wasnt enough paint on that area, the coat couldnt properly blend in with the last and itll do that, too much paint and itll run. heres how the rustoleum professional came out on the helmet, the armor is unpainted and both surfaces are not polished, and i dont use clearcoat.

 

black is a lot harder to get right, so you dont have to be too OCD about the white. as long as you sand well and do light coats evenly around the parts you shouldnt have a problem.

Edited January 21, 2014 by DizzyStormtrooper

[Haribon72[TK]]

Dominick.. I bought the primer and glossy paint from Orchard Supply Warehouse (OSH).  I see you're in Southern California.   The nearest store is here:

 

OSH at Granada Hills

Store No#: 840

Chatsworth Street

Granada Hills,CA

91344

 

 

First apply the white primer (one even coat) and then wait 3 hours.   Make sure its a warm day and start at 11:00am so that later in the afternoon you can apply a second primer coat.

Wait one extra day before you start with the glossy white paint.  Once you apply the glossy white paint, please wait 2 hours in-between coats.   I gave my helmet a total of six coats (light and even coat).   The paint will build up into a glossy finish. 

 

Please note:  DON'T TOUCH IT the first day!   I put a small finger print on the cheek by accident (and fixed it by adding light coats to cover it).     I waited two days before I can touch the finish (let it hangout in your paint area - I brought mine inside the garage after the paint job).   Since you're in Southern California, the weather should be nice a warm during the day so painting outside is great now.

[SCTrooper[TK]]

I have painted a few helmets, and armor, using rustoleum brand paints and primer. The last helmet I painted came out super shiny using Valspar paint+primer in one, the paint was on sale so I decided to give it a shot. The spray can has a special nozzle that is fool proof, and if you happen to get too close it won't mess up your paint job.This paint can be found at Low's. Take the helmet apart before painting, you won't have to worry about overspray that way. Rustoleum Professional can be temperamental, the spray nozzle can take some getting use to. In the past I have removed all the paint with heavy duty oven cleaner and started over because, I wasn't happy with the finish.

[TK Sparky]

 

grainy could also mean there wasnt enough paint on that area, the coat couldnt properly blend in with the last and itll do that, too much paint and itll run. heres how the rustoleum professional came out on the helmet, the armor is unpainted and both surfaces are not polished, and i dont use clearcoat.

 

black is a lot harder to get right, so you dont have to be too OCD about the white. as long as you sand well and do light coats evenly around the parts you shouldnt have a problem.

 

Looks great. Im going to try that on the pieces that im not happy with. Thanks for the advice.

[TK Sparky]

 

Dominick.. I bought the primer and glossy paint from Orchard Supply Warehouse (OSH).  I see you're in Southern California.   The nearest store is here:

 

OSH at Granada Hills

Store No#: 840

Chatsworth Street

Granada Hills,CA

91344

 

 

First apply the white primer (one even coat) and then wait 3 hours.   Make sure its a warm day and start at 11:00am so that later in the afternoon you can apply a second primer coat.

Wait one extra day before you start with the glossy white paint.  Once you apply the glossy white paint, please wait 2 hours in-between coats.   I gave my helmet a total of six coats (light and even coat).   The paint will build up into a glossy finish. 

 

Please note:  DON'T TOUCH IT the first day!   I put a small finger print on the cheek by accident (and fixed it by adding light coats to cover it).     I waited two days before I can touch the finish (let it hangout in your paint area - I brought mine inside the garage after the paint job).   Since you're in Southern California, the weather should be nice a warm during the day so painting outside is great now.

 

Ok cool - ill check it out. I know where that OSH is.

[DarkTrooper[TK]]

The temperature of the paint in the can and the outside temperature where you are painting will also effect the outcome of the finish. Its supposed to be winter still but we've been having 70 degree temps in most of California this month.