-
Posts
466 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Articles
Media Demo
Posts posted by james007bond
-
-
OK boss.... can still get my melon on and it's comfortable.... even with the neckseal...
I've just painted the teeth.... that's a milestone in my helmet build...
Gonna let the paint dry and put another coat on tomorrow.... perhaps...
So far no painted lip syndrome......
yeah...
-
-
Interesting point there regarding the shade 3 & 5 lens. I have a shade 5 welders goggles and yes indeed they are uber dark, indoors looks as though one is 20000feet under the sea.....
I'll experiment and see what the black/dark grey nonslip mat does to the inside of mine... otherwsie i may use satin black plati-kote paint... According to their website they recommend a primer first (white I guess to stop any black frm coming through), then the first coat of black, then the second coat of black and then clear lacquer on top...
-
Got an email from John, new batch will be ready within 5 weeks.... go get em troopers...
-
One more question regarding the armour, many people seem to put return edges on their armour to give it the added thickness look...
Would it be possible to do the same with your flexi armour, or would using a modelling/sealing iron be a bad bad thing?
ta
-
Paul do you know of any UK stockists of white E6000?
If so, PM me when you have a moment...
Thx
Shiv
-
I beginning to see the attraction of a black interior.....
Over here in the UK, with have plasti-kote paint/spray, I think the way forward is to first spray or paint the inside of the lid with white primer, just to ensure there is an extra barrier between the black coat and the plastic shell... and then blast it with matt black paint.... and finish off with clear lacquer... I'm also toying with the idea of using non-slip mat material for the inside of my lid.... decisions, decisions....
-
One more thing, is my bumpy eye ok, or should I open it up a bit more? I've seen so many pics from starwarshelmets to the build threads on here that I can't decide whether to leave the bump as is or sand it down a wee bit more hence opening up the eye? As this is not an exact science comments from fellow troopers are appreciated...
Mark, will trim off the back of the neck first and then take it from there.... I will make sure that at least I have a clean cut hole all around so-to-speak.... I'll post up pictures sometime tomorrow or more likely Monday when I'll get round to doing more work on the lid...
thx
-
Hey Mark, will do... I think i'll use the trimming scissors as I have more control there....
I was gonna ask, what about the face plate, do people actually trim that back more? I could probably quite easily trim about 1/2cm towards the bottom of the vocoder and hovi tubes...... dunno, what do ou think?
-
Oh, i've lowered the brow a bit..... it nearly looks like a hero but in Stunt Config....
-
Thanks Guys
I've bolted on the ears.... and it actually does look much better....phew... I can't believe how small the head hole is...... jeeez I can just about get my melon through it.... Tomorrow I will cut and sand away the bottom of the lid.... Any tips appreciated...
If anyone can add some pics of the bottom of their AP lid, this will help me.....
Thanks
-
Hi Guys,
Those who know me on UKG, know that I'm currently building my AP lid.
However, i've come across a small issue upon which I need clarity..
When I bolt on the faceplate to the cap, my face plate is off centre. I know the lid is assemtrical, but should the faceplate not be completely square or is this a feature of the AP mold....?
Also it appears that the Cap itself is not completely symmetrical from the top... i.e., it kinda curves more in one direction... I think this is why the face plate is off centre...
Anyway, the trapezoids on both left and right temples pretty much line up with the edge of the eyes... so am I being too paranoid?
Thanks
Here are the pics..
-
OH, just sussed it out both the black and grey cover comes off....
The grey cover as a wee lip on the top, so just gently pull the lip up and the cover comes off.... wicked..
-
OK, having not found a 110v battery, does anyone know how to cycle up the counter to show ones TK number?
-
Hi Chris
Received my counter today....
Many thanks buddy...
Now i'm wondering if anyone has managed to get the counters working.... It says 110v, don't have a battery that big....
-
G'day Daz,
Nice to see you over here buddy...
It's gonna be great on Saturday in Wolves, at least it's all under cover and plenty of good black country ale if you boys get thirsty....
See you guys at around 2pm'ish....
OK history lesson now:..... For those of our non UK friends, the black country refers to an area of the UK which used to have a large coal mining industry...
-
Paul,
I presume, due to the thinness, the only way to bond the armour together would be with E6000?
Plastic weld would I presume be a very bad idea?
shiv
-
Hey stomper
Interest withdrawn..
Cheers
shiv
-
If anyone else from the UK wants to buy a set, PM me perhaps we can share shipping costs?
thx
-
Hi, would appreciate to see a photo (as i'm not able to log into the 501st) if possible also can you let me know the shipping cost to the UK?
thx
-
I want one...
PM sent Ramon...
Shipping to the UK please..
-
Hi John
The plastic weld, does what it says on the tin... However I was able to pull my forearms apart (ouch) using a very sharp modelling knife, cutting into the welded plastic... bit by bit.... One thing though, it takes time and above all patience.... be careful you don't slice any of your fingers off in the process....!!! Oh another tool I used was one of those wooden spatula things.... the ones that doctor's shove into your mouth to keep your tongue down.... vere good to pry apart the plastic....
Then it was a question of sanding down using my Dremel and hey presto... job done....
-
Had mine for the last month... still in it's box, have had no time at all to do anything with it... <_< but yes, it's an awesome kits, has so much potential.... I've just ordered a real Hengstler counter..... Need a real M40 scope now... hehe
-
Mark
Is the trigger active on this one? Also does the cocking handle move back and forth?
Cheers
AP helmet build question...[*AP]
in Build Threads Requireing Maintenance
Posted
Yup, it's known as the swiss cheese effect... and yes the ears will hide them....thank God... I was trying too hard to get the ears married up as I foolishly trimmed the ears first thinking that I knew what I ws doing. It's just a shame this is an AP lid I trialled on... hehe
I do have some replacement ears being sent to me, just in case though....