indiechixor

Overdue update time! First. I want to update my progress on getting a high-gloss black, which will (hopefully) help w/chroming. These are all "finished", flawless and mirror reflective. I'm holding a few in reserve, want to do a start-to-finish post on those. Knee Caps: Boot Tops: Boot Cuffs: Bells (These do have slight orangepeeling): Codpiece: Chest: (look at that reflection!) This side will need to be retouched TD Bracket: Biceps:

Paint time! We purchased Speedokote High Gloss Jet Black for our basecoat, applied using a touch-up airbrush, which is perfect for painting 5-6 parts, applying two coats. We seemed to get the best results on the smaller pieces - husband usually paints small minifigs, these are his first large parts. That said, we got great quality on these knees (cured 48 hours) Others, like the cod piece, had a bit of orange peeling, which will be sanded down and try again with a more medium-wet application The shoulder bells turned out quite well, I think We used an uncomplicated method of using stirring sticks for both holding parts, and hanging to dry Here's the whole set of initial spray, we've got some work to do on the Thermal Detonator still so i'll cover that one separately.

Well, I've been delayed almost a whole month due to COVID - family is healthy and happy again, but really did put a huge stoppage on work proceeding. Meanwhile, we bought automotive paint, and supplies needed to start applying a glossy black to our pieces. And today, built a spray booth: I'm quite pleased with how it turned out. We also re-sanded all our pieces up to 2000 grit, and washed a bunch of parts that are ready for spraying. Once we get a nice result on the glossy black, we'll be ready to start testing with... Alsa Easy Chrome Yes, we've decided to try our own hand at Chroming, despite most folks sending it out to Vegas. Here's our rational (as i'm sure many folks will have opinions): - We've been doing our research on many Mirror Chrome options, this seems to have the best final result - Many of the good results we've seen with this particular product were from automotive shops, hence the setup - Many of the bad results we've seen with this particular product were due to not following the prescribed steps - This is not a Gilding Processes - it's still a two-part basecoat/topcoat combo using paint gun - While still expensive ($140 for 2oz?!) i'm willing to try it out initially to see what results we get, and if they seem not so promising, we aren't out THAT much. We can still sent out for professional chroming. - A lot of the work is in the prep, which we've spent many hours accomplishing. So, that's where we're at. We're on final Black Glossy coat, we'll get those looking flawless, then try out the Easy Chrome process, hopefully in a few weeks. I might actually buy the hobby kit after my next paycheck!

Update - While at first I said it was too snug, after a few more test prints, I determined that I could make it "larger" by simply taking out an inner layer. And it makes it much more flexible! So, here's the test with my armor and undershirt, fitting beautifully, and amazingly flexible YET DURABLE. We tried tearing it with our hands, and it wouldn't break apart. I'm planning on adding some length to each size, to make it easier to attach to armor. Not sure if i'm going to use something like E9000 or what, TPE is notoriously difficult to glue.

Well, That's why you wait till the print is done before deciding if the quality is ok! I think it looks good enough to pass muster, but I did end up re-designing the model to be a bit longer, so that'll increase the width of each ridge. Print quality aside, look at how gorgeous this flexes and moves! Perfection. Click Here for Video showing Flexibility! It is worth repeating that THIS IS A TEST, AND ONLY A TEST. That being, the size is snug against the arm, but that's good to help test how it'll hold up under extended abuse. I plan on giving them to my 11 year old to stress-test. Either way, doesn't this look FAB? Really happy with how it turned out.

Thank you! I didn't realize how impactful a small change to the status-quo could be, but in thinking on it this will hopefully make creating First Order troopers more accessible. 10 hours in, 11 hours to go!! It is so clean and yet squishy.

I had similar thoughts as well, if my trial runs don't end well I was going to go up a nozzle size - thicker walls, without losing quality and all that. Definitely will be putting it through it's paces as I test out my design, after elbow I need to model out shoulder and knee gaskets as well. Each will be an adventure, to be sure.

Maybe I missed those, I was going to print a pair for myself, mind dropping a link to those Shoulder Tabs?

Gaskets! I had a dream in which I didn't pay $150-$300 for "rubber" gaskets (as required for level 3 CRL). So, I opened up Fusion360 and created a mockup of what I might be able use instead. I printed this first test in PETG, my flexible filament arrives tomorrow, so I can mess around with settings on that soon. 1) Distance between each courregation. Would love input on 'standard' size of these 2) You can see it's nice and thin, but depending on how well the TPE holds up, I might need to use 2 perimiters. 3) But overall I really like how this turned out, interested to see if I can actually make these work!

Welcome to the forum! I would also highly recommend reading through one of the excellent build threads out there. Obviously there will be variations due to different manufacturers, but i've been referring to Ukswrath's build thread (as mentioned above) for months, and i'm actually building a Phasma! Many of the photos and lessons learned will aid in your construction. If you're more of a visual learner, there are some excellent YouTube videos that go over how to get started. Good luck!

Yep! I’ve been letting the paint layers cure around 12hrs, sanding them even with some 800grit paper, and washing/drying overnight. This last top layer I went thick/heavy, going to give it a full 24 hours and even out any drips that may have formed… then I’ll be done until it’s time to use the shiny black prior to chroming! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Fingertips! I used blue tack, toothpicks, and .99c foam pumpkin to aid with spraying my 3D printing lines. Round 1 of Spraypaint Round 2 - I did some 800grit slight sanding inbetween sprays Round 3 - Really getting there

Hey all! While I was at my build party, some folks helped me piece together my belt. I think we got them all in the right order, but an extra set of eyes would be nice. I finished cleaning them up, but not sure if they’re supposed to be stacked like this? Does anyone have a good guide to TLJ belt assembly? Next, I think I’ve finally solved an issue with cracking on my abs join. Note this top photo has a nasty seam I used a combo of green stuff and support for behind the join, hopefully that keeps it from cracking any further. Finally, after another coat of primer/paint: I know it needs a few more layers of filler, but not too shabby!

After attending SiliCon in San Jose, and attending a small workshop about doing Costume Project Management, I decided to create a Phasma Kanban. Here, you'll see a sampling of the "big rocks" I need to accomplish on the left, moving to the small finishing details. These haven't been prioritized yet, i'm going to sleep on it first. After that, going to try and put some rough estimates to see how many more hours of work I have ahead of me. How high will that number go?

I did a thing! After shamelessly complaining about zero responses from my local garrison; I got to attend my first build party! Big time thanks to the Central Cali Garrison folks for taking me under their wing, and helping me get dressed! First test-fit since finishing all my parts. I already was able to adjust quite a few things that weren’t 100% with my fit, and after inspection by the other members, feeling good about the work I’ve done so far. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cool thnx will pm you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes I’ve spoken with [mention]ukswrath [/mention]about reaching out to members but never heard back. I’ve been slowly plodding along with my kit, and I know members are busy with their own stuff… but it’s hard to keep motivated when you can’t socialize with anyone local or go to events because you don’t know when they’ll be there. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Having been in the hobby building my own kit for over a year, I can tell you that I’ve been attempting to reach out to my ‘local garrison’ for months, with zero result. They have a Facebook, which I’ve messaged multiple times, sent PMs to members within White armor, and their local Forums require you to be a member before joining? No help, no response, nothing. All that to say, not every garrison has been warm and welcoming to newcomers, let alone one that holds your hand while navigating armor choices. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Make that 3! I’ve been on hiatus due to work, but mine are trimmed and ready for attachment. Glad we can all learn from one another! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah I had those screenshots saved, I was considering doing the full chest plate but since the CRL for TLJ says “The back/yoke is one seamless piece.” I didn’t want to potentially get denied for something like that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got a lot more work done the last few nights, picture-heavy. Got the shims put onto the back of the shins: Which turned out pretty good Got around to putting the boxes onto my Forearms: Butt-join on the outside thigh... not sure yet how I want to attach the inside. Inside View And put another layer of primer on some touch-up items, and first coats for others. Abdomen is nearly finished, needs a few passes with the sander and should be good: Very happy with the back/yolk join: Behind: Knees: Spatz! Feet Plates:

Awesome @gmrhodes13 and @ukswrath thanks as always for the clarification.

Question Regarding Specifically TLJ Phasma- I can’t remember where I got this pic from… https://i.imgur.com/AgyOTxv.jpg but the CRL says no soft parts on the belt, while I know some folks wear them while trooping to use for cards/stickers. Can I just make those boxes removable? I’m in the process of working on Abs & belt and want to make them as functional as possible. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey Don’t sweat the Yolk. I had the same initial thought, and ended up figuring it out - It’s Phasma, but same mold. check out my thread here: Indie's TLJ Phasma Build I determined where to cut by taping the back, yolk, and chest on me, marking the outlines of the chest, and choosing a point well inside that line.Here’s the gap I left between the back and yolk:As for the abs and back, again take a look at my thread I think cutting down the back and attaching the sides helps a lot with fit for someone a bit more trim. You get less bulging and puckering this way, and there are several options to join the back together - take a look at some of the other TFA FOTK Trooper builds. Personally, I’m following @ukswrath tutorial here.

Not sure if your question was for me or not, but good point- since I had previously used the MA310 I already have the gun/tips. But if you are buying Plexus for the first time, you’ll need both. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk