iEmpire916

Thank you all! This is definitely a dream come true! Once things get a little back to normal out in the world, I can't wait to get out there and start trooping!

William Stuart 90913 Centurion Letter Sha Sha Thank you! http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/90913-centurion.png

Ok, so I fixed the gap in my shoulders the best I could (my shoulders are a bit broad) and I also fixed the gap with my drop boxes! Hopefully these new pictures should do the trick.

Ok, so I shifted my drop boxes over and I think they look pretty good now! And I also got rid of the return edge on my on my forearms as well. Hopefully these are acceptable now! Also, here is a close up of my side and I do not believe I can close the gap any more than that. haha

Oops, that was actually an old picture from my EIB! haha I just edited that one. If you look at the other side view pictures my drop boxes are now much more aligned.

Armor Maker: AP Helmet Maker: AP Blaster Type: Praetorian Blasters Height: 6'1" Weight: 160lbs. Boots Maker: Imperial Boots Canvas Belt: AP Hand Plates Type: justjoseph63 Neck Seal Type: Darman's Props Holster Maker: AP Link to EIB approval. Based on my EIB approval, I closed the gap between my back plate and kidney, tried to lessen the gap between my thighs and shins, lessened the gap on my shoulders and back plate, and moved my drop boxes to the side. Regarding the paint on the ab buttons, I do see the requirement is "Ab button paint shall not extend beyond the bottom of the actual raised button", but none of the buttons extend beyond the raised button. There is a slight white raise around each button. I hope the detailed ab button picture shows this better. Per EIB request, I raised the right side of my sniper knee to align with the ridges on the shin.

Thank you Sha Sha for reviewing my EIB application and everyone for the kind words! I am definitely going for Centurion and working on my back gap, thigh gap, shoulder gap, and drop boxes. Being a bit taller makes things interesting. haha For the ab buttons, I am a bit confused because I do see the requirement is "Ab button paint shall not extend beyond the bottom of the actual raised button", but none of the buttons extend beyond the raised button. There is a slight white raise around each button. Let me know if I'm not understanding something correctly! haha

William Stuart 90913 EIB Letter Sha Sha http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/90913-eib.png 279

Ok, so I boiled the knee plate and bent it as best as I could. It looks like it got a bit wonky in the front, but the knee plate seems to be aligned on both sides now?

Ok, I'll give that a try! I've never used a heat gun so I don't want to risk it. Haha Since the center back of the sniper knee plate is welded to the cover strip, should I just dip in the right side of the plate and bend it?

Thank you for your reponse, Sha Sha! How would I generally bend the right side upwards? Would I need a heat gun or a boiling water bath work to bend it into the correct spot?

Armor Maker: AP Helmet Maker: AP Blaster Type: Praetorian Blasters Height: 6'1" Weight: 160lbs. Boots Maker: Imperial Boots Canvas Belt: AP Hand Plates Type: justjoseph63 Neck Seal Type: Darman's Props Holster Maker: AP Armor: Helmet: Blaster: Accessories:

Hi everyone! So I noticed for Expert Infantry rank, one of the requirements is that "Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh, with the rim of the mic and the inside white or painted white." It looks like I have to still paint the rim white of my hovi mic tips? Any suggestions on what to use? Just a small thing of paint, or maybe whiteout? Or something else? Thank you!

Thanks to all of your help, I am now an official 501st member! Very proud to be TK 90913 and in the Central California Garrison. Couldn't have done it without all of you! Now time for me to work towards Expert Infantry and Centurion! I'm sure I'll have more questions for all of you coming very soon! Haha

Hello! TK 90913 requesting access https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=32296 Thank you!

Hey everyone! So I got a response back from my GML and he said I had a few tweaks to make. Here's the pictures he sent back and what he said: "First thing, the back gap. If there is a way to minimize this that would be ideal. This one is not a deal breaker as you are a tall stormtrooper and it wasn't really made for people over 5'10. See if you can wear your chest piece a bit lower and your kidney plate a bit higher. Like I said though that doesn't disqualify you, it just looks cleaner. Second, The cover strips on the tops of the thighs need to be trimmed as shown in the pics, trim the tops and lower the drop boxes about 1/4 inch. EASY fix. Finally, the kidney plate needs the return edge taken down a bit to be flush like shown in the picture. Should also be an easy fix." I guess not a super easy approval. haha Any thought on these tweaks? Thank you!

Ok everyone! So I removed the top foam in my helmet to lower it down, rasied my abs, lowered my chest, rasied my biceps (looks like I could raise a little more later), added velcro to keep my shins in place, shifted my shoulder bells forward, bent the shoulder straps back, and added white elastic strapping to them. It maybe not be 100% perfect, but is it ready for approval?? haha Thank you all for all of your tips and tricks so far!

I will give this a shot today after work! Just a few questions: 1. The water should actually be boiled? Not just hot, right? Haha 2. Should I just wear some dish gloves to handle the plastic while bending it? 3. Can the shoulder straps still be attached to my chest plate? Or do I have to take them off? Not sure how much of the plastic I should submerge in the water. Sorry for all the dumb questions! Haha

I'm pretty much done with all the corrections you all have advised! Now, I just don't get how to bend those shoulder straps back. haha I'm using a really hot hair dryer and it seems to heat up the plastic but it just bends back straight once I let go. Is there any advice on how long to heat it or where on the plastic to aim the heat? I'm also afraid of warping the plastic too. Thank you!

Thank you! I'll start working on these tips tonight. For sanding my armor, I don't really know anything about grit. Haha Do I need all three of those grits for my thigh coverstrips? Or which should I use?

Thank you for all the tips so far! Just a couple questions for now. 1. Do you all think I should start with raising the ab strap in my chest plate first? From what it sounds like that will raise my torso a bit higher and under the chest, and therefore also lower my chest a little away from my neck? The chest is choking me a bit at the moment. Haha 2. Should I then raise the biceps higher into my shoulder bells? I'm assuming these two steps will correct a decent amount of the issues and naturally move my shoulder bells forward? 3. What should I use the cut the coverstrips at the top of my thighs? Some kind of scissors? Thank you!

1. Name - William Stuart 2. Future Garrison/Squad/Outpost or local area - Central California Garrison 3. Armor maker - Authentic Props 4. Helmet maker - Authentic Props 5. Cloth belt maker - Authentic Props 6. Neck seal maker - DarmansProps 7. Boot maker - Imperial Boots 9. Blaster maker - Praetorian Blasters 10. Height - 6' 1" 11. Weight - 160 lbs 12. TK type - ANH Stunt 13. Name(s) of any Trooper(s) who significantly helped with your build - justjoseph63 Hi everyone! I was not sure if I needed to put this in a build thread first, but I believe my armor is pretty much done! Yes, I do know I need to still bend my shoulder straps down, but I was hoping to get feedback on everything else first. Thank you and ALL the feedback is welcomed! :) Also, I am still not sure why my shoulder, particularly my right shoulder bell is off. I have a couple close pictures to see any anyone can give tips on that too! haha

Hello everyone! So I am looking to add velcro to my shins when I noticed a couple issues. When I look at the shins, my sniper knee seems to line up in the back and inside correctly, but the right knee seems to be uneven? I purchased it from AP already assembled and I don't know if there needs to be some adjustments? Also, so for adding velcro, do I just measure how much cover strip I have on the inside, and cut the velcro to match that width, and the same with the overlapping on the coverstrip? And should I put E6000 on the velcro even thought its industrial adhesive already on it? If you look at the sniper knee, things seems pretty even. But the right knee looks off to me? I held it together with tape to try to make the top even, but when I do, the bottom seems way off. Am I wrong? Any help would be appreciated! Thank you!

Thank you for the diagram! It does look like it would be best to just shorten the white elastic. I purchased the white elastic snap already pre-made (probably why its too long). Do you know anyone who sells these white elastics with the snaps and black shoulder snap attachment pre-made (just shorter than the one I bought)? Or would it be best to purchase the white elastic, black elastic, and snaps and put it together myself?

Would it be ok just to move the chest and back snaps farther apart instead of shortening the white elastic? I assume that would have the same effect? Also, if you check out the picture above with my armor laying on the ground. I noticed my chest curves in more than my ab plate. Should I try to bend and widen the chest plate? Would that make it easier to overlap the ab plate?