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TKSpartan

Deployment Officer[Staff]
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Posts posted by TKSpartan

  1. Hi Christian an d thank you for your EIB app.

     

    Meanwhile one of us is assigned to review your submission, we will need need you to help us with a couple of  things.

     

     

    1- Add an additional photo of the inner side of your thigh ammo pack rivets to see the type.

     

    Something like bellow

     

     

    rGVf0z4.jpg   KWzMVUB.jpg

     

     

     

    2-  As Glen pointed , to smooth a little more the  3d printing lines of your E11 blaster

     

     

     CRL L2: 3-D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines, and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance.

     

    Please check all the T-Tracks

    vhF5VFd.jpg

     

     

    v2vA3VR.jpg       wbBJji9.jpg

     

     

    SoF0ccB.jpg                 wMn6fC9.jpg            

     

    Thank you :salute:

     

     

  2. 11 hours ago, N0SweatBobaFett said:

    Got an Imperial Supply Drop E-11 a few weeks ago and got a few good coats of black on the blaster and started adding other paint details and weathering today.  I avoided adding any metallic weathering on the grips and T-rails, weathered with bronze for the scope, but was wondering if I should weather the Hengsler counter with any paint or not?  Thanks!  
     

    KR5HwSO.jpg
     

    yGCuaxy.jpg
     

    hZRWpxj.jpg
     

    zhsItJz.jpg


    K7AvxMX.jpg

     

    Nice Blaster Trooper !!  :jc_doublethumbup:

     

    Just checkout the scope and Ammo counter correct position when assembling

     

     

     

         r7HHOpt.jpg?1       HHquZIS.jpg   

     

     

    3wzxTD1.jpg?1        vnKhb4X.jpg

     

     

    4RpO8NB.png?1

     

     

     

     

    • Like 1
  3. On 7/30/2023 at 8:53 AM, Tilheyra said:

    UPDATE: I found something that works! More info at the bottom.

     

    Question for folks: What epoxy is best for covering and smoothing the overlapping joints in the leg and arm armor?

     

    I know I mention the 2-seam appearance in my previous post, but my intention has always been to cover and smooth over the actual seam created by bringing the pieces together. I have referred to the photos of the Movie Realistic Armor tutorial on the Imperial Surplus website, and it shows Perma Poxy stick being used. I can't seem to find that exact product online or in stores near me (but I found other Perma Poxy products meant for other materials than plastic). I want to be absolutely certain what I get will work before I apply anything. 

     

    My local hardware stores and big box stores have the JB-Weld WaterWeld stick. Does that work? Unfortunately, the packaging makes no mention of ABS plastic. Does that work, or are there other recommended products?

     

    I did use JB-Weld PlasticWeld to (attempt to) smooth out the edges of where the thermal detonator holder attaches to the rear torso armor, but I have discussed how much of a headache that turned out to be, so I don't want to repeat that. The liquid nature of PlasticWeld made it very difficult to smoothly apply before it dried.

     

    UPDATED INFO: I realized I did not look at the auto parts stores in my area. I went to one and found the stick/putty version of JB-Weld PlasticWeld. The packaging specifically mentions ABS plastic as one of the types of plastic it is meant for! Once cured, PlasticWeld can be sanded and painted. As this is a very similar product to what is shown in the Imperial Surplus photo tutorial I will go ahead and use the PlasticWeld stick/putty.

     

     

    Browsing the FO Armors section I found a couple of threads for you, take a read mainly in the first section where they explain the materials and tools needed. Both mention the Epoxy they used.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    • Like 1
  4. 2 hours ago, N0SweatBobaFett said:

    Just wondering if anyone had the diagram for the placement of the ab/kidney split rivets?  I know they supposed to be 10mm from the edge but was wondering if there is a measurement from the top and bottom of the top and bottom rivets?  

     

     

    Additional to Glen's  be sure to place the Ab section first.  10mm from edge and aprox 20mm (from center of the rivet)  from top and from bottom 

     

    u0c0ok3.png

    • Like 1
  5. 19 minutes ago, N0SweatBobaFett said:

    just checking in to see if this looks like a good trim line for the inside of the bottom of the right shin.  
     

    TUW2YZg.jpg


    Uh4ttb0.jpg

     

     

    It looks good for a starting cut. Once you make a test fit you will see if you need additional trimming

     

    references

    rKcUZDy.jpg?1

     

    4kbSiRH.jpg?1

     

     

    GEBR51w.jpg?1

    • Like 2
  6. 21 hours ago, Order and Justice said:

    UPDATE

     

    Well, my last post in this thread was thirteen months ago, but I just got home from an eight month deployment and decided it was time for an update. At the time of my last post I was just getting started on training, I began with nightly cardio and cutting out sugary beverages.


    My routine has changed considerably since then, but the biggest change has been dietary, not so much a change in the kinds of foods I’ve been eating, but the serving sizes. Recently, I’ve started a new weight training regimen consisting of 1-2 hours in the gym five days a week (M-F).

     

    I’d be happy to go into detail if anyone would like to know more, but for the time being I just wanted to post some progress here. Posting keeps a little bit of healthy pressure on me, and this journey is far from over. Keep working hard Troopers, keep making progress, it’s never too late to get started. Best of luck to all of you.

     

    Progress Troopers, Progress! :dancing-trooper:

     

    Last Update: 248.5lbs

    Current Weight: 217.5lbs

    Updated Goal: 200lbs

     

    1dF37Bt.jpg

    Awesome!! Great work, Congratulations Trooper!  Keep it up. :th_AnimatedBravoSmiley:

    • Like 1
  7. 13 hours ago, Sawanator said:

    One thing I noticed here is that I now have an overlap on "wings" of my AM black plate (bottom corners). I've ready other posts about this being an issue. I never bothered to fix these because it didn't used to over lap. Should I try suiting up again and seeing if if was just the way I was wearing it, or should I clip the wings on the bottom? 

     

    Hi Matt, 

     

    Overall you look great.  It seems to me that you could try suiting up again an raise a little the back plate (AM kit have the back plate corners a little lower than other kits) . The plan B would be to apply some heat  to bend them (hot water bath or heat gun).

     

    If you check your photos from October 30 -2022 , you will see that the back plate is sitting flush.

     

     

    pulRXNy.jpg

     

    AxLUCmw.jpg

     

     

     

    • Like 1
  8. 45 minutes ago, TrickyT81 said:

    Thanks, Spartan. I have a pair rivet setting pliers. Are you able to tell me what attachments I need to use to set the single cap rivets?

     

    In my builds I have used a plier or a rubber hammer on a hard surface.

     

     

    Or you can use a tool like below

     

    https://www.amazon.com/Leather-LANMOK-Replacement-Repairing-Decoration/dp/B07F9S7YP4/ref=sr_1_14?crid=11TZYF9H8D9WP&keywords=single%2Bcap%2Brivets%2Binstall%2Btool&qid=1689892613&sprefix=single%2Bcap%2Brivets%2Binstall%2Btool%2Caps%2C149&sr=8-14&th=1

     

     

     

    • Like 2
  9. 3 hours ago, TrickyT81 said:

    Hi all,
    Just a couple of questions…

    1. I bought the sew on snaps for the shoulder bell/shoulder bridge connection to copy what my original RS suit has. Am I able to use the line 24 snaps for this instead?

    2. Attaching the knee ammo belt. Am I correct in assuming that I should drill the holes into the ammo belt first (see pic for where I intend to put these) then, using these holes, mark the drill spots on the thigh armour when lined up?

    7d5785152873c549d4ffa01b7cd6f6fb.jpg


    Sent from The Empire

     

     

     

    Hi,

    1. I bought the sew on snaps for the shoulder bell/shoulder bridge connection to copy what my original RS suit has. Am I able to use the line 24 snaps for this instead?  YES you can 

     

     

    2. Attaching the knee ammo belt. Am I correct in assuming that I should drill the holes into the ammo belt first (see pic for where I intend to put these) then, using these holes, mark the drill spots on the thigh armour when lined up?
     

    This chart would help you to check the ammo pack location and then make the holes.

     

     

    efFsLX0.jpg

     

    And this references for the accurate position of the rivets

     

    UvyA9dL.jpg

     

     

     

    • Like 2
  10. 9 hours ago, stgordon2 said:

     

    In my case, I am not sure it would be worth it to get a refund even if I could. I bought the suit for $200 which is by far cheaper than any of the suits I have seen for sale. 

     

    That said, if the community says it is not approvable, then it's not approvable. I am not sure though that it was a waste of my money. In the future, as my finances permit I would like to purchase an armor kit that could be approved. It's a matter of what I can and can't afford at this time, and this suit was something I could afford right now. 

     

    Enjoy the experience and in a future you can upgrade it , step by step   we are here to help when you're ready.  :salute:

  11. Hola Manvi, gracias por aplicar para EIB .  

     

    Excelente trabajo con tu armadura. Unos detalles y estarás  lista. He agregado tu solicitud y uno de nosotros estará contigo tan pronto sea posible.

     

    :salute:

     

    Hi Manvi. Thanks for applying for EIB.

     

    Great work with your armor. just a few details and you'll be ready.   One of us will be with you as soon as possible.  Added to the line. 

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