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Everything posted by GilFran007
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I hate those camera tricks! one day you think you nailed the look......then a different angle proves otherwise....(but also works in reverse too) LOL I'm dancing on the line of trimming my cap....but my bucket is finished painted, loc-tited in......I just ripped it all down and re-built it two weeks ago to give her it's third paint-job....I would rather buy a new bucket from Mark and start from scratch than demolition it for the second time I'm hoping I could live vicariously through your build....lol I'm also looking forward to your weathering section.....and hoping we could do that at the same time
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Love your attention to detail sir....be careful though; if you are OCD like me, it will rule you. I spent many a night trying to achieve the 'Streets of Cairo' hat bash on my fedora....and finally realized that HF and my head shapes are very different....too different. it seems that screen used helmet had a cap that was tilted back to achieve the high brow. You can see that with the amount of 'forehead' you can see in the picture....ie- your AP bucket is higher. I was thinking of doing an elasticized helmet that would allow you to slip it on like a flex-fit cap....but that design is still just a cerebral fart
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Happy to report that trimming the shins did the trick! I did a test fit with shins, thighs, and torso.....I thought the build was on point so far. Once I receive my new canvas belt for the redo, I will post pics of a 'pre-deployment TD' to get your comments
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Ab and Kidney Rivets, and Kidney Notch Questions
GilFran007 replied to Bootlegger137's topic in Assembly, Mods, and Painting
I used AP's method of using an ABS strip across all 3 rivets, per each side, to keep everything squared away nicely: -
I just wanted to share my experience with buying a one piece under suit and gloves from here: ---------- The original order was plagued by shipping problems from the get go......problems between Amsterdam Royal Mail and Canada Post (not ER). Richard at ER did his best to sort this order out with the shippers, but after almost a month of waiting, I relayed my frustrations about the process to him. Richard then took it upon himself to send me a replacement order using a different courier and I received it within a week. The suit is very well made and fit as per the sizing chart. The gloves came with the Velcro on the backs and are quite comfortable.....same material as the under suit (not keen on the SA rubber gloves). As the expedited delivery required me to pay COD with DHL, Richard said for me to keep the original order if and when it ever showed up.......it showed up yesterday I just want to give Richard and ER a big thumbs up for taking care of their customers.
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awesome progress wook! so fun to follow your build as a fellow TD. I'm loving your attention to detail wrt the original packless D94 captain....I almost went there but decided that I didn't want the PO or SWAT status on this build.
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thanks for the input folks. Based on what I can tell, the thighs maybe sitting just a tad low, but the shins were way too long for my shorter legs. From what I've read thus far, trimming the top of the thighs, and hence, the return edge was more of a last resort than a first step. As my knees make it past the bottom of the piece, I figured that the adjustment should come from the shins. I looked at how the shins fit on my calves and see that the top of the armor is at or above my knee cap....placing the TD sniper plate over that would put the plate in and around the bottom of my quad. I slowly started trimming the shins to drop this level down and hence position the plate where it should be.....as well as give myself better mobility. In the end I trimmed about a hair over 2" from the bottom of the shins. I think this will work. I will post pics soon to show how everything lines up.
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Okay, a picture is worth 1000 words .....apologies in advance for my daughter's unsightly bathroom but it's the only full length mirror in the house: Here is where the ridges are pretty much flush with each other: And the shot of behind the knee: To me the thighs feel like they are the right height..... but it looks like I need to trim approx. 1.5" (minimum) from the bottom of the shins. What do you guys think?
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That's awesome! I'm already well down this path, but its great to see a veteran chart the same course btw....TD's do not have the dropboxes...."we don't need no stiinkin dropboxes!!!" jk I wasn't happy with my paintjob on the traps and tears so I just tore apart my AP helmet and pretty much started from the top. I tried to get it as close as I could to the captain you have chosen.....number of tube stripes, vocoder shape, ear rank orientation......etc. One thing I could not mimic was the brow height as Mark had already predrilled the holes for me. So before you grab that drill, see if you can tilt the cap upwards just a tad to mimic the onscreen high brow.....BUT, make sure your noggin can still get inside the bucket...LOL That would be reason number two for me not mimicking the high brow as I wouldn't be able to get my head in and out. I could trim the cap manually, but didn't want to take it there. I'm also using the MEPD CRL that you've selected but chose to go with large Spanish pouches instead of the small ones. I'm only looking for basic approval at this point Good luck brother!
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Now that the thighs and garter system is complete, I strapped on the 2 pieces and tested mobility. With the thighs strapped to a comfortable level, walking is manageable especially after I cut some material out from behind the knees....but stairs are still challenging....my little girl laughs at me when I try to climb the stairs. To get full mobility, you probably need to redesign the armour so that it's not a cylinder...LOL......probably more on the lines of hockey pants. Knowing that, I figure this is the best it will get for mobility unless I want to digress from canon. I taped the shins on while wearing my boots and the thighs. The bottom ridge of the thigh armour and the top ridge of the shin armour are nearly (if not) touching when I'm standing straight. Because of that, there is a lot of plastic rubbing together when I try to walk (these two edges are interfering as I move). I definitely don't like how that sounds so I need to get some gap in there via trimming the lower shins....but the question is how much? My best guess is to trim it to a level where the top shin ridge just hits the bottom of my knee cap. That should allow for room to move, allow the TD sniper plate to cover the knee and armour gap, and also let the ammo belt cover the right side armor gap. Does anyone have any tips here?
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Sounds good. I will factor in extra curing time and the reinforcement shim before going to the drawing board Thank you
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Okay...I've got down to building the shins now. The thighs are clamped and glued and looks to be well on their way. My concerns is with the clamshell design of the shins. In my construction thus far, if I pry open clam shells with the hinged end just glued via a cover strip, there is a tendency to rip the entire piece in half/pop the cover strip off. I've done this with the forearms and had to re-glue them and then had to change my construction approach. The forearms are pretty solid now but I am concerned with the shins as there will be constant compression at the cover strip which would lend itself to shearing off of the shin. Mark's AP plastic is quite robust and therefore not as flexible as some of the others I've seen in videos. Also, my calf needs the piece to open a good amount in order for me to put the armour on. I will try the conventional way and hope she holds ("you here me baby? hold together!"). I'm thinking of making a real hinge on the front cover strip via elastic but keeping it plumb will be tricky......thoughts?
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Thanks Pat, I've read some topics over there with respect to the pouches and the CRL. There is discussion with respect to why a shoulder pouch is required for basic approval and a field pack is not.....and why are there packless sandtroopers in the CRL which cannot qualify for basic approval. I've heard that some TD's just mounted the MP-40 pouch to their chest plate via magnets for the photo submission without the pack.....I will poke my head in there and ask
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More progress on the upper body Since the picture was taken, I dropped the left belt snap strap 1/4" to level the belt off. Thank god I chose to glue the snap to the armour instead of drill it in. Bullet dodged. I'm quite happy with the results thus far. I believe that my chest is just a tad too wide for AP's front and back plate though.....probably just at the cusp. The ab and kidney were secured with pretty much zero tolerance....gonna have to watch my carbs, but at least I have elastic straps on the clamshell hinge and an elastic closure strap. I am using two large Spanish pouches at the hips because I dig the symmetry. For basic approval though, I need a pouch on my shoulder and just one on my hip. Quick question, can I use the large Spanish pouch on my shoulder instead of the 3 slot MP40 pouch? I wouldn't even ask, but I was watching the ST knockoff of "COPS" called "TROOPS".....and the captain is using a large Spanish ammo pouch on the shoulder....and I thought it looked cool. If I relocated my right hip pouch to my shoulder just for basic approval, I wouldn't need to buy the MP40 pouch. I believe those hook on to the field pack strap and I am not planning to troop with a pack at the beginning.
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hey Wook, thanks for chiming in. I have decided to get dirty..... like Dirty-D dirty from Pootie Tang!!! LOL I'm gonna have to drop in on your build thread to compare notes
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I did question Mark's mark-up for trimming the kit at first....he did manage to talk me into it when I pulled the trigger on it. I am so happy that he did....paying the extra is well worth it, especially for a new builder like myself.
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I found the "easy button" for putting holes into the armor/belt/reinforcement plates etc.....I've seen it been done on YouTube and in various tutorials here. I use an old soldering iron to melt a small recess into the plastic and then just take the drill bit and ream it through by hand. Makes a clean hole ready for your snaps, rivets, etc..... It's way less harrowing than sitting there with a power drill over your beautiful armor....imo...
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Thanks for all the input gents. Food for thought....... More progress today. I got the body mostly assembled aside from the kidney rivets and the anything involved with drilling holes in my beloved armour.....going to need to prepare, measure, test on scraps, etc.....deep breaths, deep breaths.... Here is the fit in the body so far.....white is very slimming on me....I like it....LOL at first I was concerned with the gap between the back plate and kidney panel. I think it's acceptable after viewing some screen caps from ANH....thoughts?
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absolutely.... did my homework and made sure I bought acetone free
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Okay, I've completed the bucket, biceps, forearms, and started on the body snaps. It's very relaxing to work with my music in the background. My mind starts to wander about 501st approval. There are certain elements that I'm leaning towards that would negate approval in the 501st in the near future. Number one being, I want my TD armor to see daylight in the same manner that all new TD's come out.....squeaky clean. I want to find opportunities to wear my costume first and then dive into the weathering and requesting 501st approval. Also, I'm not very particular to sporting the field pack at this point.....maybe in the future. I also want my own configuration of Spanish ammo packs around the belt and to probably sport some 'rebel kill tally' decals on the bucket. There's lots of stuff that is out of spec.....but I think this is how I would like to build it. Thoughts?
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I know, I know.....too clean for a Sandy.....LOL
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Got the bucket built and painted....couldn't use AP's decals except for the tubes. I've seen a fan made schedule for ear rankings. Are there a lot of troopers who follow that? I'm torn between marking the furthest back 'bump' per ANH or using the fan based schedule and add another bar for captain. Thoughts? The helmet was definitely an easy build....and painting (outlining) was a little harrowing at first but I definitely had lots of fun with it. I felt better having the 'polish remover of nyeel' by my side I hope the rest of the kit is just as enjoyable
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My BBB was yesterday! Thanks Mark at AP for all of your help throughout this purchase. What a great experience! I was very impressed with the quality of AP's product.....even though I've never handled armour before. I was definitely not disappointed with what I received I wanted to work on the helmet first as my under-suit is still in transit....and already found out how scratchy this stuff can get on bare skin
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Thanks all for the input. It is greatly appreciated.... and thanks Joseph for that pictorial diagram. I did manage to find that the other day in my search and I have been contemplating the double snap method as you have outlined. Mark at AP is extremely helpful and does advise the nylon tabs glued directly to his armor. I will most likely go that route. Now I have to decide whether it will be single or double snaps. I know that double snaps will most likely eliminate any ill-timed failures, but I've also heard many troopers who have yet to see any issues with their standard single snap configuration. I'm leaning towards the single snap configuration...... if my cod piece falls off while walking past a Slave Leia cosplayer, I'll post pics and let you say "I told you so"...LOL
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Good day all, I'm anxiously awaiting my BBB from AP, and like many of you during this waiting stage, I've been busy studying the forum, youtube videos, & pictures in order to visualize this project in my head (....a lot of dead photosuckit links btw). One thing I started to get my head around was the strapping system. I have chosen to go with snaps instead of brackets and have been researching how to build snap plates. I've seen folks with plastic plates and/or webbing tabs glued directly to the armour. My question is, has any of you tried materials outside of plastic and nylon? .....say leather tabs or rubber tabs? I'm thinking that a rubber snap plate could provide some give so that it can sit flush to the armour, but without too much elastic stress that it would compromise the adhesion.....I'm also thinking that some good thick leather may also fit the bill. If anyone has experience with changing things up, please let me know. My initial search in the forum was not conclusive. Thnx