StrmTRPR85
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Posts posted by StrmTRPR85
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So if the joints do not butt against one another but will be covered is that an issue? As I'm going back and fixing this my joints will not touch. Now they are not overlapping but there is a small gap between once the coverstrip is applied.
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I'll do a test fit before I cut it down anymore. Better to make sure it won't be too small if I cut it.
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So another WTF builder asked me about my shoulder bell, so far I only did the left but he pointed out his had a marking and so did mine
I thought I cut all my return edge and I planned on cutting the rest of this off.
The real question is how much is too much on the shoulder bell?
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17 minutes ago, ukswrath said:
Except for the sniper, knee which is minimal return edge is optional everywhere
Thank you Tony, I'll get started on that tonight. Easy enough of a fix
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40 minutes ago, Madness990 said:
My biceps is SUPER OVAL... that’s what I need “HELP” on ... how did u fix it ?
Yeah I didn't fix mine they just worked out that way. But as Tony said do a hot water bath. It's not as bad as taking a hot iron to the kit to make a return edge.
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3 hours ago, ukswrath said:
The cover strip is roughly 10mm in width
I thought they were 15mm
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So no return edge ridge at all? How about the forearms?
Also no return edge ridge on the rear bicep?
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So remove most of the ridge as well as the return edge on the top by the shoulder?
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7 hours ago, ukswrath said:
Hey Jeff, just out of curiosity do you have large biceps?
I've never been told I have large biceps. And I wouldn't say I have tickets to the E-11 show....
Should they fit closer to my arm?
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Not sure if I ever posted my left bicep yet.
I'm not too concerned with the oval shape because we'll my arm is not circle shaped.
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You can remove the edge if you want for comfort. I kept mine to make it look thicker. I kept about 5mm all around other than the wrist end of the forearm as I'm building bfir centurion approval.
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1 hour ago, Madness990 said:
H e l p !
What do you need help with exactly?
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Completed back of right thigh gap fix
Before:
After:
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Thank you for the heat suggestion. I knew that was always an option but I never had any luck with it before even with cutting nylon rope. I figured the E6000 will glue all the ends together and keep them from frying just as well.
I do plan on trimming the top down to the 45 angle, I was going to use a careful hand with a knife and a file.
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Sorry jumping around on my build again, back to the right thigh
Have the tops aligned and E6000'd together, but I have a slight gap at the back
When I push on the pieces I can get them to move closer and remove a lot of the gap so I have a small piece of scrap ABS that I will cut to fit inside the ledges
I took some 60 grit to the back of the scrap piece and to the inside where it will sit to give the E6000 something extra to grip to. I glued down one side and clamped allowing to dry and than I will glue the other side. This will allow me to pull the two pieces closer together rather relaying on tape alone to hold the gap close. Pictures to follow of completed process.
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Split rivets and nylon straps installed
I added some E6000 to the ends of the nylon to keep it from fraying
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3 minutes ago, Cricket said:
Which is crazy because it will all be hidden by the belt!!!
I hear you there, I had to work with my OCD on a few things and just say it wont matter because no one will ever know
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7 minutes ago, Cricket said:
I had to make adjustments to my own kidney/ab holes after I installed the rivets because two of the rivets ended up looking like they were too close to the edge.
So its suppose to be 10mm from the edge of the rivet to the edge of the ABS? Is that what they made you do?
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Here it is lined up
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22 minutes ago, Cricket said:
If you're building to Centurion, you'll want to make sure that your rivet placement looks something like this based on your armor size:
Post pics of your rivet placement and how things line up on the ab and kidney. I'm sure you're fine, but it would be good to double check!I think I am above that second red line as I measured from the second ridge. I'll get some pics posted later tonight with the rivets in for a better comparison.
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Just a quick thought, won't the belt cover that bottom rivet anyways? So we would never see it. and really only the middle rivet is off by ~2.5mm at the least and 5mm at the most
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10 minutes ago, Cricket said:
I seem to recall that the rivets should be somewhere between 15-20mm from top and bottom edges, the middle rivet placed evenly between them.
well I got the top right at 20mm.
I followed Tonys Anovos build and looked over a few of the reference pics. I almost brought the top down more but concluded that its placement was just right.
Good old wonky TKs
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For centurion approval I need to put a snap in the upper right hand corner of the Ab ABS.
I measured 20mm from the verticle outermost return edge 20 mm from the horizontal edge
I drilled my hole. For my snaps I had started with 5/11 and stepped up to a 5/32 drill bit and honed it a bit to get it to slide in snug.
Using the tool kit that I ordered to set the snaps I put them together. This tool really makes it much easier to set snaps.
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Time to make some holes in the Ab and Kidney ABS for some rivets. All rivets need to be spaced 10mm from the edge but nothing states for the top or bottom. I started with 20 mm from the top return edge and I measured 10mm from the bottom lip return edge
Than I measured the distance between the two outer marks and divided by 2 and got my middle point. I double checked that these were 10mm from the edge and drilled my holes using a 1/8 drill bit.
I lined up the kidney plate to the Ab plate to make sure I got the marks at the correct level and measured 10mm from the edge.
I had to pinch the end of the split rivet to get it into the hole but happier with a tighter fit than one that is too loose.
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Thank you both! That is what I thought but wanted that extra peace of mind. Coorections should be completed by weeks end if all goes well