Erice3339
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Posts posted by Erice3339
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I don’t blame you. I’ve been using that file set you recommended. It’s a good buy. Slow but steady progress.
I agree with you on your preference. If only I had known better before I started painting... would have filed the edges down then.
Thanks, like I said, using toothpicks. Glad to hear I might be doing something right there.
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2 minutes ago, StrmTRPR85 said:
The paint will be more of the issue than shape. It's up to you how you like it. I went with the twinkee teeth as that's what I liked.
Understood, is there any paint that you see that I need to remove? Unlike correcting the teeth, doing so is pretty simple.
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While I’m online, here are some more pictures of limb assemblies I have made and am waiting to dry to do the opposite side. If you see any incorrect alignments, confiurations, cuts, etc., please let me know!
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27 minutes ago, StrmTRPR85 said:
Some like the twinkee teeth look and others go with more of a sharp look. Go with what you want to do. Either is acceptable
1 hour ago, Commander Gree said:Actually i believe it is. The teeth need to be cut as shown, and the gray paint cant go to the top, it should never leave the teeth
So, unless I am misunderstanding something (and I probably am), I’m still not sure whether I need to correct the rounded edges for Centurion or not.
I know about the common overspray issue that Gree has mentioned and have already corrected that. I’m working with toothpicks to gently scratch away any paint that invades the top, white part of the “mouth.”
Here it is repainted after the filing (for now):
Thanks for all of your feedback everyone! I really appreciate it. As was mentioned by another user, I couldn’t find anything in the CRL’s about the curved teeth edges.
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2 hours ago, Novak Dimon said:
I don’t think it is a disqualifier for Centurion. The CRL don’t mention it.
But the original helmets had mostly angular holes:
I’ve been doing my best throughout the past day to file the curved edges down. It’s slow but steady progress. Still a relief to hear it might not be a disqualifer after all, though.
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2 minutes ago, magni said:
Same one I own and used
Sent from my LGMS631 using Tapatalk
Sweet, thank you for the input! Funny how that was the first file set I looked at.
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2 hours ago, magni said:
I'm not 100% sure but I believe the rounded corners of teeth will need to be corrected for Advancement to higher levels.
7 hours ago, Novak Dimon said:You can do that with key-files or a modeling scalpel. But be careful with the knife! The ABS is VERY thin there.
Thinking about using one of these precision files to angle the corners between the teeth. If you would, what do you two think?
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1 hour ago, Novak Dimon said:
The ones Anovos made have very rounded corners.
I would make them more angular.
Precisely what I was concerned with, although perhaps better articulated. Is it a disqualifier for Centurion?
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Repainted the frown; the recent update to the ANOVOS kit left the teeth unpainted to avoid overspray and allow builders to paint themselves.
Therefore, I painted in and over the teeth with Humbrol #5 and added the frown extensions on either side as seen in Uswrath’s build thread (helmet mods).
I am unsure about the spaces in between the teeth. Tony’s (Uswrath) helmet does not seem to have any plastic in between the teeth (that I can see). Nonetheless, I painted these plastic “arches” with the same color. **If incorrect, please advise.** I could repaint with white gloss once this coat dries.
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After 473 days, 23 hours, and 3 minutes, the BBB has arrived. Somehow, with all the time I’ve had to research, collect what I need, and even go to an armor party, I am not as nervous about starting as I thought I’d be (still have shaky hands though).
Thanks to Joseph and Tony for advice and his build thread, respectively! And, of course, all the other numerous Legion and FISD members who have tolerated my many questions and offered great insight!
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28 minutes ago, menschie said:
Perfect, thank you for that. Job well done on your part!
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9 hours ago, justjoseph63 said:
Can you post up a photo (or 2) of the issue for us, Eric? It would make it easier to give you the correct advice. Thanks!
I used this flat side of the anvil for the female snaps that were said, by Tandy, to be compatible with this tool.
When clamped down, except for the corners, the area between and around the female bases appear to make contact with the plastic piece pictured.
I’m not sure how else to illustrate the issue— if there is one— without the armor aside from taking the pictures displayed thus far.
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10 hours ago, justjoseph63 said:
Does the base of your snap setting tool have a reverse side?
It has a concave side which I used for all the males and was sure to flip it over to use the reverse side for all the females.
The reverse side of the anvil is flat. I purchased it, along with the setting tool and snaps, from Tandy Leather. It does look a bit different than yours. Here is a link to the anvil page: here. In the description, it’s said to be compatible with the Line 24 snaps I got.
What, if anything, do you think I should do about the female snaps? Unfortunately, I have already set thirty. Since I do not have my armor yet, I cannot do a precise test, but I did try pressing one of the straps against an ABS yard sale I have.
The fabric seemed to make contact with the surface of the sign (i.e. if I were to apply glue, I think it would fasten) and it seemed, for the most part, flat. There was a slight dip in the fabric between the snaps where the nylon made contact with the plastic surface. Let me know what you recommend. Thank you.
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26 minutes ago, ukswrath said:
2/16 aka1/8" will do
Perfect, thanks for your help and this thread. It’s a savior for beginners. Hopefully I’ll end up with a kit more accurate than the ones used in ANH themselves, ha! You’re to thank for that!
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7 minutes ago, ukswrath said:
lol sorry, roughly 12" per side leaving extra to trim
EDIT: never seen this material in an Anovos kit
No worries! Thanks for the info. My local Joann’s has 2/16” and 4/16” white elastic, but no 3/16”. Do you think either of these will suffice or does it have to specifically be 3/16”?
Both options at Joann’s supply more than enough for a dollar or two.
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1 hour ago, ukswrath said:
For the shoulder covers and required for Centurion
Reference photo
I was able to discern as much; however, I was asking whether I need to order a role of 3/16” white elastic or if ANOVOS supplies them with the kit. Thanks for the reply and awesome build thread.
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Is the 3/16” white elastic used in section 8f for the retaining straps included with the ANOVOS kit? I did not see them mentioned on the supply page at the beginning of the thread. Please excuse me if I mistakenly overlooked it. Just need to know if I need to purchase those separately. Thank you!
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7 minutes ago, GilFran007 said:
the functionality is still there.
That is a relief! I thought I might have to drop another $60 on metal buttons...
Some of my female snaps are worse than others, I think. I’m hoping they’ll still do their job though. They still lock (actually kind of difficult to get apart too) and are flat on the underside for gluing.
I’ll see if I can pick up the tools to follow your procedure in your original reply to minimize misaligned snaps. I appreciate you sharing that here.
Thank you for your time and attention, Gil.
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2 hours ago, hollowbodies said:
So you'll see, when you'll get you kit, you'll be ready to go and knowing what you have to do!
That’s the idea! Even then, I have to say, some days of browsing FISD had me thinking, “18 months isn’t enough to absorb this information. Anovos has got to give me more time before BBB day.”
Like Joseph said here, I do want to treat it like a marathon instead of a race, but I will admit I’m eager to get started.
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5 hours ago, justjoseph63 said:
You will see a menu on the right with 6 options, Click the blue "COPY" tap next to the DIRECT LINK (second from the top)
Thank you for the advice. Is there a way to insert an album with a single link or are we only able to add direct links one-by-one for each individual photo?
Edit: For now, I just added each picture individually. Let me know if I am missing an easier/quicker way to do it.
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2 hours ago, GilFran007 said:
I would say that it would need to be rejected.... If you are OCD like me
So it sounds like, as long as the female snap straps still adhere to the armor, having them aligned on either side of said strap is a matter of aesthetic preference as long as the snaps are not bent (i.e. still flat), no?
2 hours ago, GilFran007 said:If you are using e6000 glue, you can always put the snap straps in that are a little skewed.... If they fail, it's easy to replace
When you say “fail”, do you mean come loose/off of the armor? If so, how would misaligned snaps cause that if they are still flat with the strap thereby allowing the E6000 to adhere the strap to the equally flat surface of the armor?
If the snaps still lock as well, would the female base not be hidden from view, so that one could no longer tell whether the two female pieces are aligned or not (i.e. since only one piece of the female snap is able to be seen by looking at the surface of the strap because the other, or the base, is glued to the armor on the underside of the strap)?
I think I might be misunderstanding something. If it would help, the following image is an example of one of my straps that feature a misaligned female snap assembly:
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Unlike many here, my first post is not of a big brown box unfortunately. While I got my kit for a decent price (I think), I have been tolerating a 18+ month wait time; however, despite my use of the word "tolerating", I have taken that time to research and prepare. In a way, I am grateful for the wait and don't mind it so much. I actually feel somewhat confident, but I am sure that will dissipate as soon as the box arrives.
In the meantime, I started this thread early because I got a headstart on the strapping system I intend to use in my armor as publicized by justjoseph (shout-out to him; great asset on FISD and that's a gross understatement). Even so, I am now waiting on more snaps from Tandy which has caused my wallet to suffer (along with many... many other purchases). Without further adieu, here's what I have so far:
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On 4/19/2018 at 1:04 PM, GilFran007 said:
bent, misaligned snaps
Hey Gil,
Correct me if I am misunderstanding something here, but why does it matter if the female snaps are misaligned if the base of said snaps and nylon are getting glued to the armor? Wouldn't the misalignment then be hidden from view? Or is there an underlying structural issue with this? I read that you mentioned it was still "functional", but I am concerned that, on a very limited budget, I might end up needing to buy more snaps if the misalignment (which I did not think was that serious) turns out to be a bigger problem than I initially thought. Thank you in advance for your help.
~Eric
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Thanks Colin. If it's not too much trouble, can you post or direct me to a picture of the inside of your helmet for reference when I install the foam? It'd be helpful to see your setup. If not, no worries. I appreciate the help you've already given me.
First Build: ANOVOS ANH TK Build Thread
in ANH Build Threads
Posted · Edited by Erice3339
Thanks for the encouragement; I’ll get right on removing the paint between the teeth. I have to wait for parts to dry for 24 hours anyways.
As you pointed out, I’ve already faced some of the bigger issues, especially plastic wanting to overlap.
Paint removal, fortunately, is not all that difficult for me to do.