Revvek

NICE! 501st Stormtrooper[TK]

oh I already did tis one. haha...

ok I figured it out, thanks https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=35435 I still need to find a source for foam to use as padding to help keep a few things aligned better.

45528 requesting access https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=35435

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Been a BUSY week, but TK-45528 reporting for duty I’m sure I haven’t requested all the proper access to So Cal, 1st imperial detachment and all… (so many different places!)

because the original builder made the front seem so wide, the knee will never sit flush… (and I can’t get it apart to try and fix that) So I put a 1/4” thick EVA foam spacer inside to let me glue the center. This also should help some with the knee wanting to go under the thigh. Then I glued the sides. waiting on approval…

This should do for the TD update. Trimmed knee return off. considered leaving just a bit on either side of the strip, but it was just cleaner this way to me. maybe I’ll add a bit of scrap to gap fill if it bugs me.

I decided to go with long Velcro on the other side of the bell to bicep connection. adjustable over time is good… and it was determined that the way this armor has the knee installed needed to be fixed… so, I set about removing it. Not an easy task… but there where spacers under it, so that helped a little… needs some cleanup… Minimal visible damage. Other than the hole in the palm of my hand. (Put on a glove after that!) this build has had its blood letting moments. That may be the most yet. seems the bottom return edge should be removed, if I understand correctly. it is what it is.

Also started to play with how to add straps between the bells and biceps. first with a snap in the bicep. then I started making the elastic straps. snapped one end on to get a feel for size… thinking maybe to short… but maybe not… it could work, with a snap on both sides. but I’m thinking now, maybe use a long patch of Velcro on the bell side, to let me have fine adjustability… Especially if/when the elastic stretches.

Here is what I have been doing to fix up this TD. I found that I have the perfect paint, so I decided to patch the holes. (Tested on small cylinder on right) Covered the inside. ( my end caps come off making this easier) my fingers were covered in superglue when done! But I didn’t get them stuck on anything. filled things up with some filler. Second filler pass (alternated colors so I had a better idea of where I was) also made the screws black. What holes? and super close match grey applied. Now I wait for it to dry… (inside is original grey except for a bit of overspray) In the right light, 1 or 2 of the holes have a hint of where they were. if it bugs me to much, I’ll wet sand a bit more and paint again. Probably not though…

This is a rebuild, have to work with what I have and try to make it work. tube is 7.5” wide, 68mm OD. the end caps are close to 3/4 but a bit different from each other, not exactly to control spec. Can’t fix that… the panel is superglued on and not coming off without being destroyed… (I played with the idea, but nope) I could flatten the clip ends, moving the screws a bit closer to the end as well. But that will change the control panel rotation a little... ANH stunt control, doesn’t match that image, but the image from gmrhodes13 looks like a real TD, so this will go in my file for future reference!

Discovered the TD metal parts are installed in the wrong place for more than basic approval… and far enough over that I’m going to need new grey pipe, or attempt an expert patch and grey paint job to fix it.. apears to be 68mm OD 64mm ID 2mm wall checking the source master list

where would you suggest getting foam suitable for this task?

thanks for the observations! im aware of the shoulder bells popping up, I’m looking into how to solve that. I am 6-1 so I probably will have a gap, back there, but I am going to play with adjusting the shoulder bridge size to see if it goes down some. And it should not have that slant… hmmm I didn’t notice the leg not being straight, it could be the knee was pushing on it…. I need to check that. I didn’t want to have to pull the knee apart as well, but after some in person expert input during this fitting it became apparent that I WILL be pulling it off and fixing it’s alignment…. more tuneups to come!

First complete suit up and fitting!

getting close! The Velcro just kept falling out on the shoulder bells, so I put snaps 2 inches from center to the outer edge of the bell. then I made 1” elastic straps that are 3 inch center to center of the snaps. This makes the other snap hang out 1 inch on center, the exact distance to the snap centered on the 2 inch wide bridge strap. also started installing the padding and fans in my bucket.

repurposed the shoulder straps that came with the kit. Going to attach to the shoulder bell with Velcro to start with, and left some webbing to put the snap through on the other end. Glued in some elastic for the strap around the bottom. left side reverts are ready to glue in place, once I’m happy with the seam and any paint I end up using on the off colored shims…

Ok, so…. As I mentioned, I wanted to make the holster come off with snaps, but how to do it… I found some other posts info about people doing it, so I know I’m not the only one. Good. I really like what Chicago screws look like on the outside of the belt, but how would that work with snaps… Like this used tin snips to shrink the screw head grinder to round it off better. (Be carful! They like to fly fast!! If you touch the wheel wrong) And it fits. (I’m sure I could come up with a better way to make it cleaner but, I only needed 2… for now.) I then made some 1mm plastic spacers to go under the snap to help spread the forces and improve the overall fit, like I did for the ab snaps. It’s actually a lot of work to hand craft what’s basically a plastic washer…. and belt now can be removed easy for packing! maybe I’ll make the 1mm spacers bigger so they hang out from under the snap later… we will see how these work stress wise.

While figuring out where to attach the holster, I decided I needed to change holes in the leather straps. moved the plug from the new hole and e6000’d it into the old hole to add just a bit more structure. ‘ attached! I’m going to make this use snaps to come off easy for packing, just need some small #8-32 screws.

Thanks! My belt also lets me slide the straps with loops. Maybe that was the issue when I took the photo? I’ll have to keep an eye on that. (And find a way to make the straps stay where I want on the belt once they are in the perfect place) the snap issue is related to my ab to kidney connection on the right side.

For the thighs I have gone with 1” straps with a quick release buckle and a Velcro mount point in the thigh. these hang from a tactical belt and let me put things on and then pull straps to adjust. used some of the pre made straps cut up to make the Velcro mount loops. I’m sure to be removing more return edges in some places like behind the knees, etc… Starting to fit! I’m NOT HAPPY with how the right side snaps together!!! (Ab to kidney) Nearly impossible to contort myself into the position needed to snap the snaps. I have ideas on how to fix this…

Velcro added but how I want to adjust the shape to fit better I haven’t decided… used some Velcro and elastic straps for the chest to ab plate connections. Maybe after all is fitted I’ll change to snaps.

Maybe it’s my CAD training…

Time to put some new Velcro on the lower legs. They don’t meet up very nice… and I’m unsure how to bend them better without possible damage. Water bending could work, if I can get Just the portion I want in the hot water… going to trim away more of the return edges I think…