QuartZ

Tiny update. Our water heater stopped working. So, what I had hoped would be a productive weekend working on some Stormtrooper business (including the blaster) turned into a huge ordeal. Sigh. Anyway, I did at least get around to cutting out the ejection port area. I used a 1/8" drill bit to create a "dotted line" just inside of the black Sharpie markings I traced from the template. This was easy when clamped in the vise on the drill press. Once all those little holes were drilled, I took my Dremel and the cutting disc and connected the dots. Here's a look at the rough cut out: With that done, I used a routing bit to clean it up and get a little bit closer to the black outline. Then I took some files (both flat and round) to the inside of the opening to clean up the cut. Here's the result: I'll probably come back at the end and hit it with a bit of fine sandpaper (along with all of the cuts so far) just to really finish everything off at the end. Next, I need to cut the magazine opening opposite of the ejection port, cut the dovetail area for the front site, and there are a few small holes and odds/ends to do before I call the receiver tube complete. However, I feel like I'm getting pretty close now on this part. Wish me luck! -Dana

Ok, I'm back again. So, I live in California and we can't purchase/possess high-capacity magazines for firearms. Luckily, I was able to find and legally purchase a Sterling 10rd magazine online which is still too long for an E11 so it should work just fine! Here's a pic of what that I received: On to an update on the parts front. I made some slight adjustments to the clip/lock pieces and ran a test print as I mentioned I would in the last post. Below are a few images of it next to the real Sterling parts (the cap head screw is just to test fit and function): I'm pretty happy with the result. I have some notes on a few aspects to tweak, but it's really close to the real thing. Of note is the range of motion for the lever part isn't the same as the real deal so I'm going to look into it and resolve the issue. Alright, I'm off, -Dana

Hey, thanks for the kind words! I have a bit more to share today. I completed the rough cut on the receiver for the "cocking lever" toward the rear. A heavy-duty cutting wheel on the rotary tool allowed me to cut 2 lines and remove the center material. I took a file to it just to even up the edges, but as you can see I need to remove some material to match the diameter of the end closest to the ejection port. I can't wait to cut that part out next. Here's a look at where I left it: I also managed to print off what I'm now considering the "beta" version of my front muzzle assembly. It fits better and everything mounted up nicely. In the first image below, I've used the real Sterling bolts to attach the printed parts to my cut up Sterling Barrel (the end piece). I then mounted the whole assembly in my aluminum receiver tube that I've been cutting (above). If you look close you can see the barrel from the front...notice the rifling in there? This shot from the reverse lets you see the chopped end of the barrel through the holes I drilled. It looks pretty well centered and it's being held in place just as the real SMG had it held by the bolts inserted through the muzzle piece: I do have some ideas for how I want to make my replica barrel, haven't started it, but in my head I have an interesting/novel idea. We'll see when I get there. Next up, while I was working on the end cap piece (see earlier post) I took a quick break to whip up the locking mechanism for it. I may tweak a few tiny measurements, but I'll probably print it first to check it out "in-hand". The knurled pattern is not present on the 3D model (I'm thinking of adding it though). Here's the whole thing: And here's a look at it from the under side including the little standoff features that mate it to the receiver via some holes that were drilled in the real Sterling: And with the outer part hidden, you can see that I've also included the simple spring (in the 3D model it's in the compressed state to fit inside the other parts). I'll probably create a template to cut out of flat steel for my spring. But here's what that looks like: Alright, so that's it for tonight. More to come later. And thanks for stopping in! -Dana

Hi, I just saw your question and thought maybe the following would point you in the right direction. Here's a link to the post I found the template I used: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16705-the-best-sterling-templates-ever/?p=203898 Make sure you get the 38.1mm OD tube/pipe template as they also did a conversion for 40mm in the same post. You can see that I'm using them in my build here (sorry, not trying to hijack just wanted to show you an example of them being used right now): http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/40055-my-crazy-e11-adventure/ Let me know if I can help, and good luck, -Dana

I didn't get around to posting this yesterday like I thought I would, but here's where I'm at with the end cap so far: And the other side with the ring mount: I'm going to work on the more complex shapes on the underside next and then finish with the various cuts, tabs, grooves found inside the cap that interface with the receiver slots. -Dana

I'm getting really close with the muzzle. Here's my latest test print which I'm considering is in the alpha stage. All the dimensions match my real sterling part and I'm just going to tweak the inner barrel clearance a hair and the same goes for the fit inside the receiver tube (both are a bit too tight). Once I make those changes, I'll run off another test and bolt it together (using the real sterling bolts and front mount of the barrel to ensure this fits together as it should). I split up the muzzle into 3 pieces for better printing. They will be glued together and all the seams will be hidden during the cleanup/phase: Here's a look at the model nearly complete (almost everything changed from the first screenshot I posted in this thread): And here's the barrel mounting face as seen from the rear of the muzzle (inside the receiver tube): I've also started working on the rear of the receiver end cap piece that holds the buffer tube spring in. I'll post pictures of the early stages of that 3D model later today. -Dana

I know you said not to bring up pressure chambers, but as far as I know that's what it takes. Over at propsummit (a blade runner forum) we have had tons of trouble casting the clear grips without bubbles. A member DaveG had some of the best luck with the following method (quoting his post here): "www.silpak.com RU-525 two part water clear polyurethane. Same stuff I used to make the amber grips for my Snub Nose Blasters. It's a PITA to use. The mold has to be platinum based silicone, not the more common tin based. The resin needs to be first de-gassed in a vacuum chamber to get rid of the big bubbles from mixing and once poured into the mold left to cure in a pressure chamber at 80 to 100 psi to get a crystal clear result. After that it needs to be post-cured at about 125 to 150 degrees for 4 to 6 hours. And even then you'll get a lot of rejects." Sorry if this didn't help you, but I just popped into this thread, saw how much you were struggling with bubble-free, clear resin castings, and we've been dealing with this issue for years over on that forum with very few real solutions other than something similar to what I've quoted from DaveG. Best of luck, -Dana

Just to throw my hat in the ring as another potential data point, I placed my order for a kit on Dec. 26 and received an email saying my order has been dispatched today (Jan. 9). That's only 2 weeks for my order to be processed and shipped. I'm certainly bummed to hear about others with delayed purchases.<br><br> -Dana

Late in the week, I came home to a box that had something really cool inside. A chopped up Sterling! The photo above isn't all of the parts, some are still in the dirty/greasy plastic bag that it was all packed in when I received it. I just threw most of it onto the table for a quick snap shot and I know the parts are really toughly aligned to each other. Never the less, it's pretty sweet to have an original. I've already compared some aspects of the receiver tube to the aluminum one I cut using templates found here and I can say that things are so close you'd have to take calipers to details to tell the difference (I know because I did). So that's great news. The rough muzzle assembly I modeled and printed is also really close to the real thing, I noticed a few things I want to tweak and will get back to that once the rest of my aluminum receiver cuts are complete. Since the parts were so nasty, I've started to clean them using gun degreaser that I use on my other firearms. It's amazing how much debris, dirt, carbon buildup, etc. was on these parts. I had to do multiple passes (I still might do one more) These are pretty much clean: I still plan to use these parts as reference for my 3D models but I may make molds off some of the parts. Still not sure. -Dana

Hey again, I'm back after a quick break for some holiday family fun and I thought it would be best to start getting my receiver roughed in before getting too far into the detailed pieces. I also compensated for the rolled edge I'm incorporating into my muzzle assembly by cutting that end of the template short by 1.5mm (based on some info/measurements from T-Jay's thread on the Phoenix Props build). So with that in mind, here's what I was able to get done with a few spare hours this afternoon. I wrapped one of my aluminum tubes with a printed out template (not cut to length yet, still 24" long): Then i used a center punch to mark all the holes I was going to drill: Next, I used a 1/8" drill bit on the drill press to drill pilot holes with the tube held by a small drill press vise and some wood blocks: With all the pilot holes done, I used a "Unibit" to progressively enlarge the pilot holes to the proper dimensions: Then I marked all of the locations of the key areas on the receiver in red, as well as marked upcoming cuts that I'll make next in red: Everything still needs cleanup, I intend to complete all of the cuts and then tidy up the receiver tube with files/sandpaper. I'm really happy with how this part turned out. It was one of those milestones that feels good to get behind you. Until next time! -Dana

Sorry for the title, but I can't guarantee what I'm going to be posting in this thread, and as such I couldn't think of a better title . I just thought I should try and share it anyway. First and foremost, I'm a newcomer here. So, "hello!" and thanks for welcoming me to this amazing community. I'm working on an ANH blaster replica and wanted to share my work/progress as I go. I ordered a Doopydoo's kit and I know I'll be waiting a while for it to arrive. I've also purchased a full set of Sterling SMG parts from Numrich Gun Parts. My goal is to create a nice blaster using whatever methods necessary. Speaking of some of those methods, I'm modeling some parts in 3D using Fusion and while I'm just getting started, I thought I would show what I've got so far. I've spent a few hours going over images in the gallery (Aarons Blaster Compendium has been really helpful while I wait for my own set of real steel parts) and I'm pouring over info and measurements that others have given here and there. In the end, I'll use any help I can get! Nothing you see is set in stone, these parts are a work in progress and I'm 3D printing them frequently to check them out and make adjustments. Once I do lock the models down, I plan to print a master set, clean them up and make some nice silicone molds of my parts. Then I think I'll cast them in black resin for my build. On to some pictures: Muzzle Assembly: Front Sight Block: Checking the Fit: If you're wondering, the muzzle assembly in the first image intentionally incorporates the rolled receiver tube edge. I've seen others go this route, and I think it's a good way to get the business end looking correct with only a minor seam to fill to hide the transition. I've also added the return edge to simulate where that rolled edge would meet the muzzle itself. One of my goals with the front sight block was to include some of the small details I find missing on other models. For example, the bottom has curved edges, there is a semi-circular channel/cut running down both sides of the block that is not often reproduced, etc. I've probably got plenty wrong with what I've modeled. If you see something, ask/let me know so I can improve the models. Some questions I have so far: What are the actual bolt sizes used to hold the muzzle to the barrel? I'm guessing M5 bolts but I don't have my real Sterling parts yet to confirm. Is the front sight block really asymmetrical when viewed from the "front"? Others show the top block area offset by a difference of 0.762mm. It looks like the top hole for the sight post is offset to compensate...but really? Can anyone point me to some reference of how the barrel mounts to the muzzle from the back? I know the 2 bolts secure it, but I'm looking for anything else that helps define the mating/interface from the back. I've seen 2 shallow impressions on the top of the muzzle positioned front/rear around the dove tail feature. They look to be used for set screws/alignment but can anyone shed some light on those? Ok, I also ordered some 38.1mm OD aluminum tubes from one of my favorite resources: onlinemetals.com I ordered 2ft long tubes to cut down to length. They just arrived today and I only waited a day! I'm not affiliated with them at all, but here's a link in case others are interested: https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=7012&step=4&showunits=inches&id=71&top_cat=60 I ordered 3 tubes and here's what I received: And here's a rough print of the muzzle assembly in place: Ok, I'm going to go back to working on the parts now and hope to have more to share soon! If anyone has any questions, words of wisdom/advice/encouragement, etc. please don't hesitate to chime in. Thanks, -Dana