Harbinger
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Posts posted by Harbinger
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Thanks for the clarifications, Paul.
I'd also suggest adding the following to the thigh section (my additions in bold):Thigh ammo belt is attached to thigh with a solid head rivet or fastener in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge.
- The solid head rivet attachment is painted white.
- Standard pop rivets are not allowed.
- Note: The original rivets used for the TK armor were single cap/rapid rivets.
This makes it clearer what is screen-accurate and also brings it in line with the notes on split rivets elsewhere.
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Joseph was selling them awhile back, but I think he's out of stock:
I'd send him a PM and see if there are any left
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Pictures aren't showing up (for me at least).
You could always try a local paint shop, they're usually able to get close matches of paint, and many can do so with rattle cans as well.
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Coming together!
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Welcome aboard Mike.
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Us OT guys glue the fronts, but I'd be curious to see what you guys are doing as well - I'd worry the fiberglass would crack after repeated opening/closing cycles.
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Welcome to FISD, Greg!
The first order TK's are a more challenging build, but that's not to say a first-time can't do it - plenty have!
Right now there are only a few makers of FOTK armor, but your first stop should be this thread:
As well as the FOTK section of the boards:
https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/152-first-order-stormtroopers/
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Did you ever get your chest adjusted? They make pots large enough to fit a chest piece (I have one) but they're not cheap... but it is an option.
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Looking forward to your progress.
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Yeah, I wrote "painted black" on the assumption that black oxide/anodized screws are nearly impossible to find, but if people want to go the extra mile, I'd rather not confuse them.
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Nice job on the snap plates.
Assuming you have the same 5/16” Tandy snaps I do, you can still mount them on ~2mm plastic, just use the hammer/anvil/setting tool method. Takes some practice but I was able to get them on no problem.
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For TD:
- Clips shall be attached with slotted, pan head style screws, and painted black (two per clip).
For helmet ear screws:
- Ear screws shall be slotted, flat (V-shaped) style and painted white.
That work? I defer to the DOs of course.
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You’d need to initiate the CRL process for a new costume if no one else has.
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I only put them on my shins, for the same reason. Everywhere isn’t a bad idea though.
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Looking good! Your garrison has some snazzy trading cards.
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Looking good trooper. I'd trim your coverstrips down to the height of the lower bicep piece - it's more accurate and less likely to dig into your skin.
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Congrats Mike! #1!
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56 minutes ago, Jethro Skull said:
I definitely want mine to turn out well-done. At the least.
Just remember to pull your armor off the grill when it hits 165°F.
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Agreed! Here's hoping the flood of FOTK submissions will go a long way towards EIB #1000.
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Hi Jose, in addition to the link above, please consult the CRL (I know from your PM earlier you went with ANH stunt), here: http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt
For Centurion you will need to meet all of the additional requirements in blue and in red.
Any questions feel free to ask, we are here to help.
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I use imgur, avoids the file size limits.
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Yeah, they only take orders the first week (or so) of the month. They'll reopen early January.
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Glad to see you (and so many others, me included) aiming for Centurion from the start. Look forward to watching your build!
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That's a great opportunity, Mike. Hopefully someone took lots of photos for reference.
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TK CRL changes
in Hard Armor (General Discussion)
Posted
One more thing... it may be worth moving the L3 space pack requirements to L2, considering there is essentially just one vendor right now and that's what the CRL is based on.