BDWC

Thanks, my next step it to refit check and see what kind of room I have to work with. Thanks I'll shorten the front cover strip (although this did solve the gap tooth look issue) after shortening I will add a trim piece behind the gap if that's ok. So i need to widen the extra tooth a little? Thanks for taking the time for looking at this as this will save me hours come application time! Sent from my Imperial communicator using Tapatalk

I also looking to mod lenses into smaller individual lenses mounted using E6000'd t- nuts. However the trick is getting the one needed behind the tear area to sit at the correct angle. So I sculpted with some air dry clay to make the fitted mounting shim. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160311/d4dccafd56340084c7251cd746a58599.jpg After a day or so I will remove them and let them dry for several more days before attempting to glue them in place. Sent from my Imperial communicator using Tapatalk

Okay since I am on an update roll, here is my extended frown paint job Rightside closeup Leftside, also showing the lens areas before being trimmed. Sent from my Imperial communicator using Tapatalk

Okay.... Whew The black lines are the ANOVOS trim marks The red lines were the part edges that I was able to reclaim outside of the trim line during my original rough trim out of the box. My thighs are slightly large with measurements of 25.5" at the top down to 18.5" just above the knee. To be able to make the thigh armor about 1 to 1.5" larger required trimming the bottom overlap and keeping the top edges just under the coverstrip width. The green line is the final trim line and the green triangle is the resulting gap that I covered up with an inside coverstrip made from trim scraps I had already used a couple of mm per side on the front. I kept this as " normal" as possible since this is the show side. It is really centered better than this photo shows since the left side of this return has a curve to it, then it appear slightly off center. With the front all front all done, the issues above with the rear connection was the best I could do with what was left. Sent from my Imperial communicator using Tapatalk

still cannot use the images nor link tools to add to this thread I have sent a message to the admins to see if I have not been given access or if it is a settings issue In the meantime I will try to post up pics from my phone as that is working just fine....just taking some "finagling" to upload my modded photos onto my iCloud that attach using Tapatalk Ahhh, technology always finds a way

As many of us new ANOVOS TK owners/builders, I have been following Ukswrath's build thread for much needed experienced guidance. I haven't had "too" many issues, but decided to start my own thread instead of clogging up Tony's tutorial with my specific questions and photos. I hope that some of my issues may help other builder's as well, since I cannot express my thanks enough to Tony as well as every other trooper on FISD that is sharing their discoveries, tips, successes, and struggles for the benefit of all. A little about me, I have been a prop maker and costume builder for my two sons' many anime convention cosplays, but I have always wanted my own TK armor. A few years back, I even went as far as building my own vacuum-forming table in hopes to make my own stormtrooper armor, but soon became overwhelmed with the amount of sculptured bucks I would need to build for all the parts. I also found that the table I made would not be large enough for the back nor chest plates. So, my dream had to be put aside...for a while. Instead, I started on a Mandolarion armor kit, since I found from the WOF templates that the plates were much smaller and easier to form. Then, ANOVOS, announced this more affordable (mostly complete) TK armor set. My dreams had been answered, and as you all know began my almost year of anticipation of my own BBB. Okay, onto the build.... My posted are not in the sequence of my build but by the current areas where I found issues that need to be figured out. A HUGE THANKS to everyone in advance for the awesome community sharing all this knowledge with us first-timers!!!

Thanks Anzo! I am having the same issue, as I was trying to leave return edges wherever I could/should. Also had issues with the thigh rear top connections being like a dart in the back if my thigh limiting mobility. What did you do about this? Thanks for any solutions you have discovered along the way!!

Hi, I was modding this same Rubies while waiting on my ANOVOS kit. Now that the kit has arrived this has gotten pushed back until after the armor build. However, I started by sanding and filling, and repeating to remove all the seems....and then I found out that the Hyperfirms have seams Since I filled and primered several times, I actually could not get the halves apart. It seems that the Bondo spot putty effectively solvent welded the soft platic together. So, I have a question about when you sanded down the fins. Did it break through the plastic? Did you have to fill them back in? also, this model seems to have everything but the capacitors. What are you doing for those (or is it necessary for ANH stunt?) Thanks, for without your thread I would have not thought to put the inner barrel inside after opening the vent holes!!

I just picked some up today in 1/2" and 1" lengths. The heads are 6.4mm dia. so I think this is pretty darn close since the 3.5mm unicorns are so hard to find,...this should work until the unicorns can be obtained. I will post pictures once I get them changed out. Sent from my Imperial communicator using Tapatalk

Looks like the majority off the trimming was on the upper edge and the flashing in the "tear duct" area was left as-is. I saw some minor trimming to be done on the lower edge of the eyes, but very minor. Please tell me if this was the case or if I am missing some detail here Sent from my Imperial communicator using Tapatalk

Following this thread, I had this question. You are talking about the final triangle at the ends of the frown, correct?... And without opening the recess between this and the last "whole" tooth, as on the painting photos Sent from my Imperial communicator using Tapatalk

If I take it from inside the return edges ( instead of making them flush with the curve but instead shortening to remove them) it is exactly 4.50" wide x 3.50" around the outer surface. It's about 4.57" of you smooth the return edge flush along the inner diameter without taking off any length (I used my 1/100th increment machinist scale FYI) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If I take it from inside the return edges ( instead of making them flush with the curve but instead shortening to remove them) it is exactly 4.50" wide x 3.50" around the outer surface. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

yes , My helmet also seems off center with the teeth a little too far right and the left side set back too far. Still, closer to ANH stunt than ANH hero, so I will continue following ukswrath's build guidance on this one