Tiedoll

You can get quite a few pointers from our buddies in the clone detachment about forming seamless shims. They're the experts in "going seamless" Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This may be the way to go if you're planning on using heat. Many people on the forums warn about using a heat gun on external ABS surfaces mainly due to the warping and discoloration that misuse could bring. I know how easily it could harden and darken foam armors I've worked on, but it's pretty useful for shaping. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm also in the process of pulling apart my biceps and thighs. It's easy once you get going but that initial pull-apart is taking forever, especially if the glue is really gooped on there. Some people recommend freezing it a little to make it easier to pull apart, but that might weaken all your gluing spots on that piece.

Alright! So I just found out porous sections of the surface on the barrel after removing what appears to be 3 layers of paint. I may have to change from a stripping tool to an abrasive sponge or something. Also the paint was much easier to remove initially around 40 minutes but was definitely tougher to scrape off as it continues to sit. At around 5 hours later the paint was definitely not curling up like you said, but I think this may be due to the several types of paint intermingling with each other. I'll try this again in sections of the gun to avoid having this mess to clean up. Really hot water seemed the only thing that helped me scrub off the citristrip, which removed some of the paint, but sort of in a patchy way. Will be posting more pics on Friday and over the weekend.

Okay so turns out they did paint silver underneath the black. This is just my first attempt at removing when only letting the citrustrip sit for like 40 minutes. I think I'll wash it all off and do a longer coat sit later this week before scrapping it off Any tips for these harder to reach parts? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am so glad I found this thread because I'm a newbie who's in the same situation you found yourself in. Is using a heat gun the best way to remove E6000 vs putting the part in the freezer to pull apart? I have some parts I need widening (luckily without any shimming required) and I would prefer to avoid having every piece fall apart using the freezer method.

Correct TK-2759, it is the one sold with the stunt armor from the For Sale section. I bought the armor because I have the exact same proportions as she does and not for the blaster, so I don't blame the seller for the current state of this blaster. She said that the blaster came from another seller off the boards so I've no clue who made this thing. Handling the thing, doesn't feel like rubber. Thanks Griffin-X, I'll look into Citristrip to remove the paint. I thought it would be as simple as sanding it down and repainting, but this sounds easier (probably). I think what happened with the original was it was poorly painted with latex-based paint and the clear coat made it worse. Some sources suggested using talcum powder but that also chances that the stickiness will return so I don't think that'll work.

Just received my first E11 in the mail but the paint job is making it too sticky to handle. Any recommendations on how to smooth it out? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds like he's working on a version capable of opening and closing similar to the show version. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The forum neck seal definitely looks more comfortable. Still haven't acquired one for my suit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nicely done! Although I do wonder how hot it'll be to wear this compared to other neck seals out there in the market (or even balaclava). And of course we'll eventually stink it up with trooping, so I'm thinking about how well it cleans.