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Ubernostrum

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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About Ubernostrum

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Knoxville, TN

Standard Info

  • Name
    Matt
  • 501st ID
    52763
  • 501st Unit
    MidSouth

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  1. It means making the dreams of hundreds of kids come true while making mine a reality as well.
  2. TK-52763 requesting access. http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=21169'>http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=21169
  3. I've been playing around with this and been pretty excited so far, except that it comes out my speakers extremely quietly. I've made a phone call with the same setup with no problems. However, if I make a phone call with troop talk enabled, my voice (and the beautiful static clicks) comes through loud and clear for both the other phone and my speakers. Has anyone else run into this?
  4. Wow, Bill! This is truly impressive so far. I'm also loving your confidence in risking new techniques on something you've already put so much time and effort into. I still get nervous every time I ink-wash a model after only a couple hours of work.
  5. I wasn't as worried about the pre-loaded phrases as much as the voice changing and static clicks. Are those basically the same?
  6. It seems like the TFA version has replaced the OT ones. Has anyone tried one to see if the electronics are still the same? I don't have a Disney store anywhere near me to check it out in person.
  7. I am really glad to hear that Allan. That's the best part about forums like these: we all drive each other to greater feats than we could ever accomplish on our own.
  8. Ok guys, here it is, what I think is my end product. I'm going to give it a few days and come back to it to see how I feel about the weathering, but overall I'm pretty pleased with my results. Next up will be a set of upgraded Rubies E-11s.
  9. You are indeed aa like god among us. That was always my plan for a second one, after I get myself my basic approval. I've never been all that good with wood and didn't want to ruin that work with a bad barrel or something else.
  10. Thanks guys. The plastruct was .060 for the base and .080x.250 for the rib (inches). I just came up with that based on estimating from the pictures in this thread and averaging the three: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29118-alternate-t-track-supplier/
  11. As promised, here's a couple shots of how I mounted the bipod: The last big thing to make was the t-track. I took a big sheet of 1.5mm plastruct and cut it into 13mm wide strips, rounded off the corners, then used my dremel to put a groove into the back. It took a surprisingly shallow groove to really improve the way it sits on the barrel. Thankfully, there was plastruct that comes in the right size for the rib. All I had to do was cut it to length and round off the top: I realized after I attached it all to the barrel that I forgot to cut in the groove for setting the wire in, so I added that in with my knife instead of the dremel since it was a bit tight in places. It really didn't take much of a groove, just enough to be visible. The wire itself was recovered from an old charger. Next up was spraypainting. I started with two coats of Rustoleum pain+primer in flat gray, then two coats of flat black. I started with the bipod off, then once it was dry attached it and cut off the excess from the bolt. All that's left now is a couple more coats of black and then some weathering.
  12. That's the same thing I modeled on, I just don't have the patience right now to all that wood carving, but it was really fantastic work. I may go for that once I have something workable for trooping, instead of just trying to get out in the field. Meanwhile, as promised, here's a few photos. The bipod is a piece of angle aluminum, that absorbed the wrath of a tough day at work. I was definitely glad an old UP worker gave me some scrap rail to use as an anvil. For the rest of it (more pictures to come later once I'm done), I took what was left of a 3/4" pvc coupling, drilled a small hole in one side for a screw, then a bigger one for access with a screwdriver opposite. Once that was attached, I ran a machine screw through the bipod arms to compress them into the coupling. Right now it's held with nothing but tension and I'll cut off the extra screw at final assembly. Ill add the glue once I get the primer down, since I feel like it'll be impossible to paint the barrel well with the bipod there. The "rear" attachment point is part of the old cradle I built while drilling the barrel, just cut really small and rounded off. A small piece of balsa connects the arms and another small machine screw goes through that, and then into the barrel-mounted piece. Meanwhile, I got the sanding as done as I'm going to get it. I normally like to play by the 5-foot rule that I learned with my SCA armor. There's only so much sanding I can tolerate and I'll just to my best to pick out the good parts with my weathering/highlighting and leave any joints that are left plain so they can be distracted from. It's worked well enough in the past, but not on anything this big. Finally, it's done enough that I was able to do an overall test fit. Having carried it around (barrel not glued yet), I'm wishing I had filled the back a bit with some Sculpy as it feels front-heavy right now. Still though, I'm fairly pleased with the overall silhouette:
  13. I'm right with you Dave, the bigger the better. Over the past week, I've sanded everything down fairly well, realized I needed more putty in a few spots, then sanded some more. I've added putty to the keyway on the bild-a-blaster to get the diameters of the mating faces closer to each other. I also attached the handle and built the bipod out of a piece of angle aluminum. I hope to get some pictures up tomorrow. I also got some plastruct to make my t-track after seeing how expensive the stuff is to buy. All-in-all, I hoping to get paint on it next week while my wife's on business travel again.
  14. I had thought about that or similar, but I figured if I was going to build a second set and paint it up, I could buy something that wouldn't require any structural mods.
  15. Does anyone know of an armourer who makes Shoulder bells without the rib down the center? A group of us would like to make some non-canon bells for events, but the logo we want to use wouldn't fit well on either side of it. I know the scout biker bell is flat, but I'm not sure if it would fit well with the rest of the TK kit.
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