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Posts posted by Neb Sgird
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I'm liking the basketball trick, I just free-handed mine. Good work so far!
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Looking good! Everyone already beat me to my observations, so I'll just leave you with this: you'll have your TK number in no time at all!
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Nice! You have the three bumps and two screws, so the ears are good too.
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28 minutes ago, Twosolitudes said:
Shin cover strips are being applied. DHL tried to deliver my Imperial Boots yesterday when I was at work, so I’m guessing they’ll try again tomorrow after the holiday (Good Friday, which my wife just let me know is not a holiday in the US? Surprised me).
Looking good! Our founding fathers wanted nothing to do with anything Catholic, so Good Friday was out
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If you've decided to keep at it with the current kit, we're here to help! In addition to the elastic (which is actually required for approval anyway), I would bring your biceps up a tad.
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Front looks good. we'll need pics of the side to be sure, as the ear bumps and screws are different between hero/stunt.
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I see you had traction on your other thread (for others looking for answers, look here). Great advice there!
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Ya, as has been mentioned, I would bring your forearms up a tad. It shouldn't block your approval, but it would make your look just a tad better.
Looking great, You'll have your TK number in no time!- 1
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On 3/16/2018 at 7:21 AM, justjoseph63 said:
I am including something in your package, Ben. I will PM you this afternoon to explain how to use it.
I actually found the eyeshadow in my package before I read this and thought you might have left it in there on accident! Thanks Joseph, you're the best.
I've had a great response to my question on the HWT facebook group, so I figured I'd share here for future troopers. Seems like dollar-store eyeshadow and charcoal powder are the leading contenders. I'll probably do a nice mix of the two.
A great method that was mentioned on FB was to coat a tennis ball in charcoal powder and have someone throw it at you in your armor. Should make a nice impact mark for blaster scoring.
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21 minutes ago, lucnak said:
Is it possible you meant to write AM? I find AP is generally on the small side.
No, I meant AP, although I should have added AM to my list. What have you found small in AP? I'm 5'11", 185 lbs (not big, but not small either) and I had a LOT of room to spare on every piece. The helmet might be an exception, I have some garrison members that can't fit into mine haha.
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On 3/18/2018 at 4:15 PM, menschie said:
Anyway, if you could comment on the boots in my question above, that would be helpful and I'd be really appreciative.
They look acceptable for approval, but I can't speak to the workmanship or comfort without actually having them in-hand.
I'm automatically suspicious of vendors that use pictures of actual 501st members on their marketing/sales pages, especially uncredited and probably without the member's permission. That makes me weary of this.
Why not go with a more vetted source like Imperial Boots or TK Boots? They are around that same price range.
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I put inner cover strips on all my pieces (AP kit, so I had plenty of material to do so). I figured I had spent so much money on this project that I might as well make each piece as strong as possible. It actually made lining up the outer cover strip and gluing it nicely much easier as well (I did the inner strips first)
Joseph's right, they don't have to look pretty!
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Could you post a picture of the opening themselves (angled from the bottom maybe)? I can't tell what the problem is at this angle.
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Ya, if they'll take it, I would return the suit for a refund. The good news is that other, more acceptable kits aren't that much more expensive than what you have now. AP and RT-MOD are generally known for being easily buildable for larger people (I don't know if you're big or the armor is small )
Don't give up hope yet! We're all here to help.
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@Daetrin Um I was just looking at the ANH Hero CRL and the shoulder armor section is completely missing...
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Really starts to knock some armor out of the running for L3, ATA has short shoulder bridges, they already are place on armor with 2 and 1/2 bumps at the front when ideally they should be 4 and 1/2, take off the large bump on the back then they will be too short.
Not sure about other armor makers.
I bring this up as a proud owner of an AP suit, which has the large tab. I would happily snip off the large bump for EIB or centurion.
We shouldn't be basing this off what armor makers do, we should base it off what is seen on screen. As has been mentioned, if larger troopers need longer bridges, more small bumps could be added instead. A more accurate CRL will help armor makers adapt to be more accurate as well.
I think it's worth noting that this would be a relatively easy upgrade for anyone needing to replace their bridges when applying for level 3, assuming they use E6000 like the majority of us do. Simply rip off the old ones and slap on the new. -
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Imperial Boots are definitely some of the highest quality boots out there. Keep sourcing parts! Getting orders is almost as fun as actually building everything. ...almost...
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Not to backtrack, but do we want to include the conclusions of the recent shoulder bridge bump discussion here as a level 3 requirement for the ANH TK? It could be worded something like "The last bump on the back of the bridges should not be longer than the rest."
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How tall are you? I think you can probably make the "minimal gap" requirement. I would recommend no gap between the butt and kidney and a "minimal" one between the kidney and back. You can bring the back down a little to help this.
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You got this! Feel free to voice questions here as you research.
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2 hours ago, lucnak said:
Hope that helps! Note that this is "standard sizing" so if you need to resize anything bigger, you will probably want to make your cover strips wider as well.
I haven't seen that particular graphic before! Nice reference!
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On 3/20/2018 at 2:18 PM, themaninthesuitcase said:
The draw on the LEDs and sound will be high but being as they won't be in use all that often, I'd probably factor in a 5-10% duty cycle on them as generous. It might be worth adding a battery meter in the scope display, but either way a bench test before fitting is certainly a smart move.
I definitely plan to do bench-tests before actually slotting anything into the gun.
Electrical gurus of the FISD, I need your help! I've put the resin work on hold (I'm waiting on some diamond burrs to show up for my dremel that should make life easier on that front) and have been further planning my electronics. I'm having a hard time sourcing the speakers. I want to keep them around 3 watts (2 watts at a bare minimum) but can't seem to find anything to fit the 20 mm tube diameter I have to work with. Any ideas? To clue you in, these will sit in the back of the blaster, where the recoil spring would normally be seen. @Xinx's build doesn't specify which speakers he used (if you read this, maybe you can chip in), and @skyone's speakers are sold out.
5. Do you guys know of any speakers I could fit in this tube? Help!
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On 3/19/2018 at 2:31 PM, ukswrath said:
And for my 10,000 post (Andrew is going to love this one) PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE
Shoulder Armor CRL update
Let's add a L2 section - "There should be minimal gap between the Shoulder armor and the Chest and Back plates"
Hopefully this will inspire people to reduce and help alleviate the dreaded shoulder bell gap issue.
I might be late to the game here, and I totally understand where Tony is coming from on this, but I think this requirement might keep larger troopers from making EIB that otherwise could. While it is keeping with screen-accuracy, do we want to go that far?
EDIT: This is what I get for responding before fully catching up. I see this has been addressed and the word "minimal" clarified. Sounds like a plan to me! Loving all the suggested changes so far.
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Copper Requesting Pre Approval review
in Request TK Pre-Approval
Posted
Only one thing missing for basic approval:
Shoulder Armor
I'm not noticing those black elastics. See below for what they look like on Han.
Others might correct me here, but your frown is a little odd to me. Is there a reason you left white space on the last, uncut tooth? I would think, if extending the frown that far, white space should not be left.
With that said, you're looking great!