Altair

Hi Chris, I used the routing piece on the dremel.

Was a great day trooping! Will be back next year for sure Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ahhh thanks Tino! I should be able to swap this out pretty easily

Reticule added to scope and counter now has a display

Cheers Guys. Here is the paint that I used: Spray Paints Used: Rust-Oleum Flat Grey Primer - For all parts Rust-Oleum Flat Black - For all parts Dy-Mark Hammered Black - For blaster barrel Rust-Oleum Satin Black - Light coat over the hammered paint Dy-Mark Gloss Black - For handle Rust-Oleum Metallic Aluminum - For ejection port and around the trigger White Knight Crystal Clear - To seal everything (after weathering) For weathering: Model Masters Brass - For scope Model Masters Steel - For barrel + misc Model Masters Flat Black - For touch ups and wash over the ejection port Model Masters White - For text on scope

Did some dry-brush weathering with brass paint on the scope and also very carefully with a tiny brush filled in the text with white paint I went for the "less is more" approach when weathering up the E11, mainly working along edges and any areas where one might scrape a blaster in battle For this I used "Steel" coloured paint Now with the scope and counter mounted Still a few more things to do... - Add reticule to scope - Add display to counter - Add bayonet lug (when it arrives) - Add bolt piece near cocking handle

Folding stock is now attached, I have filled in the screw heads with green stuff, still need to paint these. Ejection port and around the trigger got a coat of Metallic Silver, I think I might redo this with Steel paint or give it a wash with black to dull it down. Also in the pic, a glossy handle Close up of the t-tracks, these were left Flat black Mag and Power cylinders now glued on.. Will hopefully be doing some dry brush weathering today

Cheers Mark! PM sent

That's for the feedback guys. @T-Jay: I've done the same to the folding stock Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Small update Taped up everything that I didn't want a hammered finish on Applied a light coat of hammered black I decided that I would also add a light coat of Rust-Oleum Satin Black over areas with hammered paint..

Thanks guys, I sanded back the areas requiring glue and taped them up I started to paint some parts black but I didn't like the finish of the Dy-Mark Flat Black paint I started to use.. it seemed quite glossy for a flat! So I switched to Rust-Oleum Flat Black instead I taped off and painted the handle whilst it wasn't connected to the barrel. I used Dy-Mark Gloss Black for the handle but I forgot to take a picture (you'll see it later anyway ) Now that everything has been painted flat black, my plan is to use a hammered black on the barrel and folding stock to give it some texture. I gave the folding stock a light coat of Dy-Mark Hammered Black as a test and I think it looks OK. The hammered finish does seem to have lighten the black, so I'm thinking about putting another light coat of flat (or satin?) black over the top? Light enough not to reduce the hammered effect.

Time for some paint! But first I gave all the parts a wash with warm soapy water An old clothes drying rack came in handy to hang parts I had some Dy-Mark plastic primer but it was clear making it hard to tell if you have an even coat... so everything got a coat of Rust-Oleum 2X Flat Grey Primer instead I gave some of the smaller pieces a quick coat of primer so I didn't have to spray heavy on those areas once attached to the blaster Small pieces glued on with Selleys 5-min Araldite, left to cure, then a coat of primer for the lot

Small update... I've put a coat of flat black over the power cylinder capacitors and wires at the back... only thing left now is glue and weathering Another small update, thanks to Sly11 I now have a curved piece of plexiglass for the counter display - thanks again mate! Looks much better IMHO

Some finishing touches to the power cylinders... first put on a coat of primer, then the first coat of flat black Installed my capacitors, threading the wires through the holes then bending the ends back up around the front edge Added some wires to the back ends of the capacitors to connect them to the resistors. You can't really tell from the image but I did in fact solder these on OK well I think this might be the last mod... next stop Paint Town!

Cheers mate! That would be great. I owe you a beer Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for letting me know mate, I'll keep it flat

I have the power!!!... power cylinders that is Using T-Jay's awesome tutorial here the fiirst thing I did with the Doopys resin power cylinders is grab the dremel to grind out the capacitors in between the cylinders and also make a hole in the back plate for the new capacitors to poke through To make the new capacitors I used 3 x pieces of aluminum rod, 6 x pieces of wire and some green stuff. First step was rounding the edges of the aluminum. Then roll up some green stuff into little balls and press them onto the ends. Finally push the wires into the center of the green stuff and leave it to set hard. A quick test fit... Rather than replacing the little bridge piece between the cylinders, I decided to leave it be and drill 3 x small holes to thread the wires through. I also thinned the large base down and reduced the end caps slightly. Now onto trimming the back plate. Thanks to Andy (PlayfulWolfCub) there are 5 x different documented back plates (A to E). I chose shape A. Using some more green stuff (gotta love it!), I rolled some thin rod shapes, let them cure, then sanded the ends to simulate the resistors on the end The "resistors" were then glued underneath the rear end caps. Also in the middle of each end cap I also added a small bolt and nut. The heads of the bolts were then cut off. Also using some spare abs plastic, I cut 2 x small squares to make the wing stubs that go on the outer sides. These were glued in place. Getting there...

I've put my DIY lug to the side for the moment as I got a response from Doopys - they are shipping me a lug! So on with the build... I've added another detail to the inner bolt. Also in reference pics there is a serial number that runs along the top.. I might do this mod, maybe? For the front sight I decided to leave this in once piece for durability, this will be a trooping blaster after all! Using the dremel I cleaned up the sides and thinned the base around the pin mount. I then used some green stuff to thicken up the pin mount so I could drill a small hole in the right side to put a grub screw. I also cut a slot in the base on each side. The pin was made out of a spare piece of aluminum and a hole drilled in the top of the pin mount to slot it in. Bit more green stuff to clean this piece up a bit.. was pretty fiddly

Champion! Thanks mate. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have only now discovered that my Doopy's kit did not include a Bayonet Lug - Part Number 16 I've had this kit for about 6 months now, I've emailed Doopys about the missing piece... Anyways I've started making a replacement part myself out of green stuff... first I squashed some green stuff into a basic rectangle shape and left over night to cure Sanded this down to a smaller rectangular shape Started shaping the piece based on images I found around the net Here it is sitting on the barrel... So I'm not finished yet... I need some hi-res close up pics of this part so I can confirm the shape and possibly some measurements... can someone help me out?

Yep, the reset button is purely for show, will just be glued in Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Another small update... I've made an inner spring by wrapping steel wire around a marker I've got 11 x visible coils

A little more modification to the Hengstler.. What good is a counter with no numbers? Time to fix that! Here is the doopys counter out of the box First job is to remove the resin display and sand it flat Thanks to Simon (SIMpixels) and his awesome build thread here I had a nice template with all the measurements to cut out the holes for my counter button and display Time to cut some holes! I ended up drawing my measurements on the counter.. but a more accurate/easier way would have been to actually print and stick the template to the counter. Also I cut a button out of the originals doopys resin magazine that I replaced Next I cut a piece of plexiglass to size... its a little thick but its all I had available. I know this needs to have a curved shape to it but I've not polished this stuff before (any tips??), so for now it will remain square with the edges smoothed Handy tip for test fitting, wrap some tape around the display so it can be easily pulled out Another thank you to Simon (SIMpixels) for whipping me up a counter display with my TK ID, cheers mate! Another test fit... Once I have finished painting it black (and possibly shaped a curved piece of plexiglass) I will put it all back together

Thanks Brian, that's the plan.. this will be a trooping blaster (until I do a pipe build) so I want it nice and strong

Cheers mate, I plan to fill them in soon. Actually there are a few spots on my doopys that will get a touch of green stuff... More updates to come including mods to the counter and power cylinders Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk