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charlesnarles

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Posts posted by charlesnarles

  1. that chart is not descriptive of all the facts. you have to know how to interpret t!

    each maker has made changes, so it's not just a copy.

    lol your grandkids aren't really copies of you, unless you cloned yourself a couple times. Like a cloned Boba baby (as opposed to Jengo's cloned baby Boba)...........😛

     

    I didn't consider them taking payments... Might have to send another email (ATA wait list is so loooong but I do want it to match my bucket)

  2. By dumb luck, the Fett card fits into the E-11's slot if you leave some of their hot glue also razor blade crosshatch (dremel, sand, etc) the small cube directly under the card slot to accommodate Boba.

    cJ7GYSb.jpg

    The Boba card's activation button is too short for the E-11 trigger, but you can just pull them out and swap them and it's almost a perfect fit; good enough for gov't work. The hardware fits without removing the E-11 battery connectors/holders or anything. I snapped off the wires to remove the old hardware. I can still solder something to it later.

    uDol3Cc.jpg

    The reflector almost fits in the barrel.

    z8FXhdR.jpg

    Just takes some easy cuts to the inside of the nose and it will fit nicely with some glue just to keep it from rattling.

    sxEBJmM.jpg

     

    I also carved out the front sight, leaving stem for accuracy (heh..)

    ifjkLXW.jpg

    Looks nicer down the scope.

    3CjNrKy.jpg

    I'm posting from my phone, I'll edit the links into pics later tonight.

  3. the AP ws not cast from a TE2. NOR was ATA cast frm TE2.it was CAP/W that ATA was derived from. and AP was cast from a tour suit by GF.

    Not trying to spread misinformation, but according to the two armor history flow charts I've seen they're both "grandkids" of TE/TE2.

    •TE&TE2 to CAP to ATA

    •TE to GFv2 to AP

    Right? Standing on the shoulders of geniuses, as they say...😉

  4. Starting a thread for my blaster build. I've cracked it open (so to speak!) and ended up snapping the - wire to the led while hollowing out the scope rail and cutting the nose off.

    uDol3Cc.jpg

    I got a soldering kit but I still need to swing by Radio Shack for a brighter led. I saw that Aussie E-11s had stock light-up barrels like the "Boba Fett gun" so I bought a Fett to integrate that function into my E-11. Turns out the effect is created by a hollow rectangle of reflective plastic with the same type of single led placed before it. Darn!!!! While I could have gotten a bike reflector anywhere, I do appreciate Boba's single blast sound effect, as opposed to the alternating DL-44 and E-11. The cards look about the same size, and the triggers were designed so that I can hopefully just slide the new card into where the old used to be glued. More to come (like pics)

  5. It looks like the blue hilighted part is flat compared to the rest of the 3-d shape. On my ATA the very bottom of the ears are flush with the tubes, without any flat overhanging tab like your pic shows. Try slowly taking tiny bits off until you get the fit/look you want. I'm not an expert (a noob, in fact) but I think most ears stop where the 3-d shape (from original) ends; flat = cut it off.

    2nd pic from bottom, cut it off at the bottom where the corner is made

  6. ATA looks really good in person and has the characteristic eye bump and the bumpy cap from the original's paint drips. AP and ATA are both cast from TE(2) so I'd assume AP wouldn't look any worse. Any ("accurate") bucket can look pretty good if you let it. I can vouch that ATA is a good starter lid, but I'm sure if you can afford AP it's tangibly better somehow (anybody?). I can't tell from pics/vids

  7. I've read up on build threads which is what sparked my question: original electronics (because I merely snapped the top wire off the bulb which is an easy fix) OR crazy internal mods (because it wouldn't be much more work than fixing the original led connection)? Here's a photobucket link, best I can do right now:

    ------------

  8. I was too rough with my blaster during drilling and cutting the scope rail and nozzle. Now I'm wondering how hard it'd be to replace the LED or if I'd have to gut the whole thing to do so. I live near Disneyland so it's only $24 and a pleasant drive to just replace the whole thing and start over :P If I'm customizing the electronics, I'd rather have a different sound scheme. All I want is a single "screen"-accurate firing noise when I shoot along with it lighting up. I also saw Boba's gun that has a light-up barrel which I'd love to integrate into the e-11 like the AU version. I'm not experienced and would love some feedback from wiser beings about where to start. Thanks guys

  9. I keep scratching my EFX's lips while filing the holes. I know EFX buckets are ABS but it looks like it's got some kind of paint or clear gloss based upon the tan color of the filed holes. Am I burning the plastic with my zealous filing? Or will it buff out with some elbow grease and match the rest of the plastic?

  10. Perhaps you can Try :-)

    I am also working on this topic i will order the Walki talkies next week

    I just got an eFX bucket to try out some techie ideas (I'm so not electronically inclined). Worst case scenario I electrocute myself again and order new walkies :D Let me know or post a build thread about yours once you get a chance

  11. Has anyone ever considered installing flashlights inside the mic tips? It might be harder to install nightvision into the lenses.

    Forward facing lamps for illumination sounds familiar (might just be thinking of the Falcon tho). It'd be fun to add some diffused (not for blinding, or maybe have a "stunning" undiffused setting lol) toggle headlights and other actually useful customizations

  12. On 5/23/2014 at 10:40 AM, bpoodoo said:

    Good call on using a compass I had to give it a try. I found my old engineering drawing set which also had a compass with removable pin. When I used it the trim line traces tightened up nicely.

     

    CvFA4wA.jpg

    Did that end up working? Maybe it's the angle, but it looks like the ears would be almost flush with the helmet if the compass stays at that width. Not to doubt your skills, I intend to copy the technique if it's effective. Seems like it would be hard to get the ear to lie at the same level at which it'll end up resting when you install it, even with putty!

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