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charlesnarles

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Posts posted by charlesnarles

  1. Since the real one doesn't fit, I'll use it on my Doopydoo's. Still deciding whether to try to dremel the steel into the right shape or try to fit a resin one instead. The S&T cap is very thick where id be removing material, so I feel like it can withstand the change. I'm really interested in seeing their E11 edition with (apparently) more accurate cap and handle

  2. I use Photobucket.com (not the app).

    You'll get better at identifying extra plastic (flashing) as your projects branch out. I made the mistake of assuming some details were erroneously present when they were actually integral to the functional design of the original cast part. If you have any doubt, check a reference photo before making changes (but small mistakes are easily fixed, as others say).

    Good luck and keep it up

  3. I sacrificed a EE3 (Boba's) and put its guts into an E11 really easily. The parts are similar enough to fit inside each other without too much trouble. I also replaced the LED with a bigger one, to ensure the EE3's barrel reflector plastic would catch enough light to not need a muzzle bulb. Here's the link to my old project I still need to finish (or sell):

    http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28274-hasbrodroopydoos-e-11-build/

  4. Can't decide if I should have wires come out the counter, probably not. It's just staring me in the face and they'd be functional but I'm also worried about their integrity.

    You can see the internal metal, plastic and wires through the front vents, which will be neat.

    I should mention how thin the walls of the resin half have to be to fit the counter. My eagle is translucent, for example. Idk how I didn't dremel through!

  5. My plan is to find a small metal pipe to fit the stock hinges onto. Should work just fine.

     

    And it did indeed come with a charging handle, it had fallen out of the bag in transit. They explained how sealed ziplock baggies trap air so pieces have room to fly around and break. Nothing came broken so I guess it works.

     

    Today I washed and painted my bolt and scope... It wasn't pretty. The antique brass paint did a big raspberry, spewing trapped propellant inside glittery paint bubbles and leaving the least even coat I've ever done. It was literally dripping in areas and bare in others, so I washed as much off as I could with water. Here's what I ended up with:

    hAICLLG.jpg

    Not exactly what I was hoping for, but maybe I can sand or strip it and try again (I do have 6 of the darned cans). Notice the fingerprints and general globbiness. The lettering looks pretty good under a more lightly coated area tho:

    GgXZMDf.jpg

    Hopefully it's still salvageable, and they're cheap if not 😅

     

    The bolt was easier, apart from the can not wanting to spray its aged steel paint at first. It was a lot less spitty and I did a super light coat. I like the darker silver color and less glittery appearance than the brass. Again, the lettering shows up, along with all the details. Looks pretty good in comparison lol:

    La2jivg.jpg

     

     

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  6. I overestimated. I can kiss the mic so it's probably 1/2" or 3/8" away. I wasn't consciously enunciating the whole video but it's much clearer when I do. The little round mic has that white plastic cover which must help with pops but idk if its tiny hole is the cause. I tried speaking really softly and it picked it up, I think my issue was being tired more than the mic being crummy 😅

  7. Welcome, Kitsten! Most armor takes the maker a month or so to pull (if you're lucky lol), so you should have enough time to save up. With your discerning taste (evidenced by your dog breeds/namesðŸ‘), I'm sure you'll do fine once you start your build. Just follow the CRL and look/ask for help beyond that. Glad to have you with us!

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